Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Godenza Noelia Ricci 2018 review and tasting notes
Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Godenza Noelia Ricci 2018 is one of the new wines of Romagna, a red wine that to be new goes back to the past, leaves all ambitions of modernity and does nothing but translates the Predappio terroir into liquid.
Ok, ok, ok, this dithyramb of the territory, the poetry of the peasant vigneron who takes care of his beautiful vineyard, the rural peace are all themes that have beautifully shattered everyone’s patience. But this time it’s not a commercial or a clickbait, it’s true. Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Godenza Noelia Ricci 2018 was born from a very precise project, 9 hectares at high altitude, 200 meters above sea level, lean and mineral soils and the sea wind beating the hills.
The aim is to enhance the land and Sangiovese with liquid tales, stories that are not epic, but true. Oenological realism is taken to the extreme. The winemaker is a purist like Bordini, a true protagonist of the Renaissance of Romagna wine, which we have (as) tested repeatedly, drinking wine from his cellar, Villa Papiano di Modigliana. Predappio is perhaps less “alpine” and closer to the sea as land, but it is always well set in the Romagna Apennines. Well, we’ve talked too much, let’s move on to wine!
Good, greedy, pulpy, juicy and rich in minerality and drinkability. When you manage to summarize a wine with these words it is usually a success. This Sangiovese is not perfect, stylized or slave to an opulent refinement that has transformed it, quite the opposite. This wine has been brought to light in the most respectful way possible and this means that it is expressive, a complete expression of this terroir, the hills of Predappio where the sea breeze arrives. But Michelangelo already said it: “Each block of stone has a statue inside it and it is the sculptor’s task to discover it”, it is enough just to give a few blows of the hammer and chisel to eliminate the superfluous.
The flavor of Sangiovese di Romagna is this: slightly rebellious, nervous, salty, cheeky and graceful. He jumps and slaps gracefully, but his rash and salacious charm is irresistible.
It has no muscle, it is not a pumped wine that shows muscles and complacent tattoos, quite the opposite. It is a sample of subtlety, of finesse that bewitches you with a sidereal, algid, pungent charm that recalls the Mediterranean scrub, the sea, the resin and earthy tones of great breadth.
The nose is crystalline, direct, straightforward, but elegant: fruit, salt, undergrowth, musk, roots and balsamic tones of eucalyptus and olives. No jams, no cooked plums or overripe scents. Everything is articulated with precise composure. In the mouth it is sharp, nervous, minerality and freshness phrasing creating a dense but fine texture. The pace is fast, it has pulp and juice to spare, strong tannins, but never green and the drinkability is unstoppable. It opens your mouth sip after sip without end.
If you are looking for an old-style Sangiovese, fat and plump, tannic to sand the gums change, but if you want to discover the face of Sangiovese then try this bottle. Each block of stone has a statue inside and it is the sculptor’s job to discover it
Price of Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Godenza Noelia Ricci 2018
Some will say it costs a lot for a Sangiovese di Romagna, 20-22 euros… And then we reply that Romagna is no longer the rib of Tuscany, it has found its expressive figure, thanks also to the courage of these new projects that focus on territoriality, on a piece of Romagna, not on the style to be indulged in pursuing the markets. Perhaps it is not a wine for everyone, certainly not for those who live by stereotypes, but those who love Sangiovese and subtle, fine and conversational wines will find a friend for the next few years to come.
Certainly, not all winemakers can afford the luxury of the terroir, you have to make do with the land you have, but it is true that those who manage to enhance what they have found a treasure. And this Sangiovese di Predappio is a shining example of how gifted this area is.
Recommended pairings for Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Godenza Noelia Ricci 2018
It’s not a bomb in terms of tannins and structure, so take it easy. Recommended dishes: baked lasagna, truffle risotto, pulled pork, Argentine meat empanadas, burritos, polenta with meat sauce, grilled meat; fillet of beef with porcini mushrooms; Cheeseburger.