Restaurants

Forget the giant trattorias: Da Mario keeps Covent Garden intimate with wild-boar ravioli, vongole, veal and a serious Italian cellar.

Piccadilly gets easier at Cicchetti: share arancini, clams, scallops and pasta, then make the theatre without sprinting.

Behind a quiet Sultanahmet doorway, Hidden Garden serves smoky aubergine, lamb kebabs and Turkish meze beneath trees and lanterns

Cefalù gets inventive without losing Sicily: Triscele turns red prawns, panelle, tenerumi and mackerel into one sharply focused dinner.

Via Maqueda brings the noise; Osteria Norma answers with fried aubergine, sardines, panelle and the comforting side of Palermo cooking.

A blackboard, the morning catch and Palermo outside: La Galleria lets sea urchin, swordfish and Sicilian wine set the pace.

Near Politeama, Osteria Mercede lets Palermo’s seafood do the talking: raw prawns, sea urchin, bottarga and whatever landed fresh that day.

Via Paolo Sarpi gets spicy: Xiao Hutong packs malatang, dumplings and lamb skewers into one tiny, energetic Milanese kitchen.

Rich ravioli, seafood linguine and generous veal dishes make Al Caratello a satisfyingly old-school Italian stop in Montmartre.

Skip the sushi avalanche: Yo Yo Faenza is best when sashimi, clean nigiri and a few clever rolls lead the...