Restaurants

Minutes from the Duomo, Govinda serves changing Hare Krishna thali with dal, pakora, rice and vegetables at refreshingly sane prices.

Pumpkin, porcini and celeriac do the heavy lifting at La Casina di Alice, Livorno’s most ambitious organic vegan table.

Handmade ravioli, grilled meat and a serious cellar give Cuneo’s Al Bistrot dei Vinai more substance than its all-day format...

Brera goes vegan without losing its appetite: Il Lughino builds lasagne, ravioli and Italian comfort food entirely from plants.

No fake steak required: Ciriera turns pasta, aubergines, lentils and Tuscan vegetables into a genuinely convincing vegan osteria.

Roman ruins below, cappelletti above: Da Noi mixes Mora Romagnola, truffle, seafood and wine inside Imola’s old brick cellars.

Salumi first, restraint later: La Piola fills an Oltrepò table with gnocco fritto, brasato ravioli, snails and local wine.

Come very hungry: La Pescarolina turns Piacenza into a feast of gnocco fritto, tortelli, pisarei, roast meat and homemade cake.

Come hungry: Al Fogolar fills Folgaria evenings with game ragù, Puzzone canederli, polenta and the deep flavours of Trentino.

Folgaria tradition gets a sharper edge at Da Ugo 2.0, with Vezzena canederli, venison, Lagrein and Storo polenta.