2020 Pinot Blanc Famille Hugel: An Inexpensive But Precise Alsatian White Wine
The 2020 Pinot Blanc Famille Hugel is a superb wine for finesse and aromatic precision, with a subtle development that leans on a stellar acidity, punctuated by exciting salty peaks.
Despite being a white wine with a strong alcohol content, 13.5 degrees, it is not a colossal wine: quite the opposite.
It plays with fruity, mineral, and spicy flavors lightly, delighting the palate with incredible loveliness but the depth that only the tremendous Alsatian whites can hide.
How is it produced?
The 2020 vintage was tragic. The spring frosts jeopardized the harvest, but what was saved is of excellent quality. Harvest at the end of August, strictly by hand, with grapes coming from more than 12 plots around the hills of Riquewihr.
Soft pressing, natural decantation of the must, and then fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature. The wine ages in steel and bottle, no wood.
Organoleptic characteristics
The wine obtained is a splendid and sunny son of Alsace: a white that constantly oscillates between fruit and rock, between spices and flowers, without hesitation but driven by a stellar flavor.
The bouquet is imaginative and profound, with scents of lilies, wisteria, and linden that chase each other in tropical plantations. The spices are sweet and delicate, fused with honey and roses, peonies, white pepper, almonds, still citrus, ginger, pear, and orange blossom finish. The tone is fleshy but delicate. It is an aromatic nose that hops on tiptoe and is not a bully.
On the palate, these layers of fruity flavors are found alternating with others more pungent with good fatness to hold everything together.
The balance is good enough, but the hard parts are still prevalent—slightly herbaceous, almost sharp finish.
Not that it is rude, we are talking about a charming salty and lemony charge, but the wine can (and should) rest to transform this symphony of evolving suggestions and tertiary aromas.
If you drink it now, it has grit and pleasure to no end, and it is an excellent fish wine or aperitif, but try to leave it in the cellar for 6-7 years to push on the more mature tones. This flavor has what it takes to age even for 12-15 years.
Price
17-19 euros: an acceptable price for a bottle of textbook Pinot Blanc.
Food Pairings
Parmigiana ravioli, spaghetti with clams, chicken tikka masala, Chicken Cacciatore, Vitello Tonnato, truffle risotto, pasta alla carbonara.
