2018 Sui Lieviti M&M’S Orsi Vigneto San Vito Review And Tasting Notes
If you have not yet tasted the 2018 Sui Lieviti M&M’S Orsi Vigneto San Vito, you have missed out on an exquisite wine. Indeed, we go further, and we tell you that it is one of the most enjoyable and tasty ancestral methods we have tasted lately.
Very fragrant, but without falling into stereotypes or forcing the category, fresh on the palate, substantial, with an excellent sapid length and a background of ripe flavors that invite you to drink freely, thanks to the very light alcohol content.
Is it the wine that changes your life? Maybe not, and perhaps you won’t keep it in the cellar for 40 years, but rest assured that the personality of this wine will not be easily forgotten.
The category of refermented wines whose grapes have undergone (even if only partially) maceration is exploding and for a good reason. Adding more fleshiness and texture to these generally light and carefree wines is an excellent solution to increase their life and, therefore, their evolution and fullness.
How is it produced?
50% of the blend is Pignoletto which ferments and macerates briefly in steel, while the other 50% is composed of Malvasia, which ferments and macerates for two and a half months in qvevri (amphora). And the flavor comes from here. This is the source of pleasure.
You know that the winery was one of the first to dedicate itself to cultivating and producing wines in a biodynamic regime back in 2006. No pesticides, fertilizers, herbicides, or selected yeasts are used, but only those on the grapes. It does not filter, not clarify, and malolactic fermentation is not prevented.
Organoleptic characteristics
And finally, we come to wine. The beauty of this nectar is its continuous internal struggle. It’s all a game, an infinite phrasing between the acidic and sunny nature of Pignoletto and the more mature and decadent nature of Malvasia.
The result is a constantly changing wine. After two hours, it has already changed. It is more open, and ripe.
All this dualism is reflected in every feature. The bouquet is a whirlwind of fresh and candied citrus fruits, resins, and apricots.
Aromatic herbs are the side of the aromas of rock and salt. It does not stop but continues to expand the aromatic volume with the contribution of sage and peach from Malvasia. The yeasts worked, encrusting with light scents of bread.
On the palate, we find this light-hearted complexity. You savor the layers of flavors that take turns pulling the group, even if, in the end, it is the freshness that goes on the run.
The bubbles are there, but it is a delicate effervescence that caresses and acts as a binder.
It offers a lot, but it does it with simplicity and without falling into the stylistic trap in which many macerates end up imprisoned, becoming clichés in turn. In this case, maceration amplifies the organoleptic characteristics of Malvasia without distorting its gracefulness.
For the Colli Bolognesi, the future is this: refermented and macerated, even in blends. Producing less but better and more sustainable is a fundamental step to restoring credibility to the sector.
Price
15-17: an honest price for a lovely wine.
Food Pairings
Parmigiana ravioli, spaghetti with clams, chicken tikka masala, Chicken Cacciatore, Vitello Tonnato, truffle risotto, pasta alla carbonara.
