2017 Aires De Vendimia Bierzo Godello Centenaria De Valtuille Review And Tasting Notes
The white wine Aires De Vendimia 2017 Bierzo Centenaria De Valtuille is a splendid and sunny example of Godello, a white grape variety typical of Bierzo, a mountain area set between Galicia and Asturias. The main center is the city of Leon, and here too, the wines are affected by a climate dominated by sea breezes and significant temperature variations, even if the difference is once again made by the soils, based on granite and limestone.
And so don’t be surprised at the mineral explosion you will feel on your palate when you taste this wine, because it will be crazy.
Yes, everything is excellent, but what flavors does it have, and what scents does it offer? If we wanted to make a comparison to contextualize Godello, consider it akin to Chardonnay: it offers tropical and intense aromas, wax, butter, honey, and dried fruit. It has the same flexibility, and you can use it to make acidic wines like a squeeze of lime or rich and smooth Burgundy-style whites.
But as mentioned, the beauty of Bierzo is the very particular microclimate. And for this, we want to talk about it. Not because it’s a hipster wine, or it’s cool to pull the unknown grape out of the hat. Not all Godellos are great, but the ones produced in this small DO (Denominación de Origen) deserve to be discovered.
How is it produced?
The mind behind this winery is the legendary Jose Antonio Garcia, a true forerunner of the rebirth of natural wine in Bierzo.
It grows without pesticides or chemicals, ferments with spontaneous yeasts, does not prevent malolactic fermentation, and the wines do a little more maceration to find roundness and structure.
Obviously, the wines are neither filtered nor clarified, and for this reason, they are rich in personality, pulp, and extract. And if you also consider the incredible concentration of iodine from the sea and the finesse created by temperature changes, you understand we are talking about hidden gems.
Organoleptic characteristics
The nose is a riot of guava, mango, honey, saffron, and butter. The aromas are intense but intertwined with iodine, sea, and algae whiffs. Endless elegance and depth, with an almond and lime finish.
On the palate, it is equally rich, opens rocky and sharp, but then caresses you with a warm softness. The interplay between butter, freshness, and salt is impressive and gives gustative power and an aromatic boost. It does not remain stationary at the Fruttino, do not worry. A tiny masterpiece of finesse, typically, and charisma.
Price
30-33 euros: it is not a popular price, but we are talking about a natural wine made by a wine artisan with care and attention and reflects the intrinsic characteristics of a small patch of earth and rock. A work of great philological rigor to understand the potential of northern Spanish white wine. There is not only Albariño.
Food Pairings
Sweet and sour pork, parmigiana ravioli, spaghetti with clams, chicken tikka masala, Chicken Cacciatore, Vitello Tonnato, truffle risotto, pasta alla carbonara.