2017 Papesse Sangiovese Villa Papiano Review And Tasting Notes
If you have never visited Villa Papiano winery, make up for it, call and go on a pilgrimage. This Romagna winery is worth a visit to find out how good, sharp, and elegant Sangiovese can be. You will find brilliant and passionate professionals, incredibly imaginative wines, and a panorama that goes beyond the usual stereotype of rolling hills with the sea in the distance.
Here we are in the heart of the Apennines, among wild boars and wolves, where only the bravest dare. The climate is harsh, and the temperature range is extreme; after all, the vines have their roots at 500 meters.
After this epic intro, let’s uncork the wine, though! Of course, we are happy to talk about Francesco Bordini’s wines because he is not only a winemaker with infinite experience but also a great wine storyteller. He knows how to ensnare you with millennial tales of climatic and geological layers and upheavals.
He takes you by the hand and tells you what effect the wood and the temperature have on the Sangiovese vineyards, how the vineyard changes based on the exposure and the sun, and how close it is to the breath of the trees.
This is why we talked about the Apennines. How vital the mountains and the presence of nature are. In the hills, you can make excellent wines, of course, but everything changes if we go down to the Romagna plain.
In fairness, let’s say that similar conditions are unique. Few are the winemakers who dare and can afford such a terroir. But few are also those who decide to live and work in such critical conditions. We talked about the Apennine wild animals greedy for grapes, but we were not joking because they are a real problem, and there is no shortage of deer to cause problems.
Organoleptic Characteristics
Papesse Sangiovese 2017 is spectacular: a concentrate of rock, sea, cold fruit, and earth.
The bouquet is lashing, sharp as a blade.
Don’t expect a lot of softness but an austere and compact tone. Watermelon, tomatoes, endless flowers, then a thousand scents of earth, roots, and rhubarb.
On the palate, it is dry, carved in the rock. The body is slender and sinuous but does not allow itself to be soft.
The volume is contained, plays on the sapid and acidic momentum that duet with docile tannins in the background, gives consistency, and acts as a frame to contain this splendid work of art, made up of nervous and sharp brushstrokes.
It is not a colossal wine: quite the opposite. Its breathing is visceral and digs deep. Just look at its transparent and sparkling color to understand that it is a wine with a crystalline soul.
Once again, Villa Papiano shows us that terroir is not just a marketing motto and not just a place, but a project, an idea, and this wine is the perfect embodiment of the synthesis between man and nature.
Price
12-14 euros: a ridiculous price for an excellent wine with great personality.
Food Pairings
Black truffle risotto, passatelli with Parmigiano fondue and truffle, bucatini all’amatriciana, roast beef, hamburger.