Cabernet Franc 2020 Ampeleia: A magnificent natural wine for people who adore nuanced and deep reds
This noble grape variety is often misunderstood and misinterpreted, but this Cabernet Franc 2020 Ampeleia is the wine that comes closest to the French idea of (Loire’s) Cabernet Franc.
One expects the bomb of fruit, softness and smoked pepper over a peat fire and instead it is a punch in the face of acidity and freshness.
It gives up on being slow and soft and instead focuses on citrus fruits, salt, the sea, and mint, as well as a barely whispered phrase between green notes and a rhythm that tastes of woods and other things.
It is not the usual narcissistic and self-centered Cabernet Franc, but instead focuses on a wild and shady drive that makes you love this wine no matter what.
This doesn’t mean that the wine is rude or grainy; in fact, it’s quite the opposite. What it does mean is that it rejects the style of modern banality, which is soft and convincing, and shows you the dark side of strength.
It is not for everyone to have so much courage and arrogance, but at least someone who wants to produce wines that are alive and well (vegetable), direct and even a little cheeky, but certainly full of personality.
How it is produced
A biodynamic approach and a lot of care are used to run vineyards in an honest way, without using weed killers or pesticides. It is 400 meters above sea level and has mostly clayey soils with galestro and limestone veins running through them. Good temperature range in the vineyards. Fermentation and aging only in steel, so it’s clear that it’s 100% Cabernet Franc.
Organoleptic characteristics
Color of ruby. The bouquet is floral, green, and has hints of vegetables that are both light and earthy. Mint and eucalyptus, olives, Scots pine shower gel in an endless fresh version.
Overall, it is beautiful and ethereal, with delicate fruit that lets the aroma of the grape grow without being too much. You can smell flowers, tea, fennel, and verbena. Everything is there, and you can tell what it is. Not by bragging.
On the palate, it is sculpted, soft, and jarring because of the citrine acidity. It grows, talks to the palate, and caresses it with a softness that is never too much.
Its steps are slim but full, and it moves with grace. Stellar drinkability. Tannins that are strong and well-made. Small work of art made by a goldsmith who works with wine.
Price
On the website of the winemaker, this unique wine costs $27, which I think is a great price. It’s a beautiful, good, and not too heavy wine that was made with care and love. It has few sulfites, so you could call it natural, and it’s a small, heroic wine for courage. You can’t complain if the winemaker is thoughtful enough to let it age in the cellar for 10 to 15 years.
Food Pairings
The wine is structured and very fresh, but not overly tannic, so it’s not a battle Sagrantino. Dishes with smoked meat, appetizers, anolini, and Indian food that isn’t spicy. You could try it with a margherita pizza, veal with tuna sauce, pulled pork, or chicken curry.
