Rediscovering Bolognese Wines: A Review of Orsi Vigneto San Vito Martignone Barbera 2017
2017 Orsi Vigneto San Vito Martignone or the Barbera dei Colli Bolognesi that you do not expect and overturns all your prejudices on the category. It’s delicate, full, and fresh, but it doesn’t cut your tongue, and it doesn’t fall into the trap of stylized fruit wine; on the contrary, it always remains austere and multifaceted without giving up stellar drinkability. A complex and stimulating wine in its development, but never difficult.
But after all, we know that the Orsi San Vito winery has destroyed the clichés and brought back typically Bolognese wines to their former glory, which by now had become pale parodies. Wines drugged by wood and the vainglory of concentration at all costs, as if it were normal to drink Barbera by the spoonful like jam. Let’s not talk about the work done with the Pignoletto, which has managed to shake off the reputation of banal wine, despite the fact that wines such as those of Righi & Company sold at 3.60 euros a bottle are still alive and well and even “considered organic” .
How Barbera 2017 Orsi Vigneto San Vito Martignone is produced
The winery has been run biodynamically since 2006. The vines are around 20 years old. After the manual harvest, the bunches are destemmed and the spontaneous fermentation starts. 1 month of maceration in large barrels. Aging for 12 months in large barrels. Makes malolactic. Total sulfites are 15 mg/l.
Organoleptic characteristics
The nose is a bit reluctant; it takes some time in the glass, but then it opens up. Severe smells come from a dark and inaccessible undergrowth, where an austere fruit is sleeping. The fruit wants to be ripe, but it lets emerge fragrant herbs, flowers, juniper gusts, and light spices. Everything is done with admirable cleanliness and great naturalness.
It has a tasty, sculpted palate; it shows an edge but is subtle in its gait. traces of salt pop between the tongue and the palate and leave room for drinkability and depth that never expire in cask machismo or ruffled tannins. The handle is not to transmit the technique to the wine but to let it speak without the slightest grammar.
Price
14–16: an honest amount to shell out for an excellent biodynamic red wine.
Pairings
- Pasta with meat sauce: The Barbera’s acidity cuts through the richness of a meaty pasta sauce like a knife, making it a match made in heaven. Try it with lasagne alla bolognese.
- Grilled meats: Fire up the grill and pair your Barbera with some juicy lamb, steak, or pork. The wine’s subtle tannins and complex flavors will elevate any fatty grilled dish.
- Aged cheeses: Take your cheese board to the next level by pairing it with the Barbera’s herbal and spicy notes. Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, and Gouda are all great choices.
- Mushroom risotto: The earthy aromas and flavors of the Barbera complement the richness of a mushroom risotto perfectly. It’s a match made in culinary heaven.
- Charcuterie board: Bring out your inner foodie by pairing your Barbera with a charcuterie board. The wine’s acidity and tannins will balance out the saltiness of cured meats like prosciutto, salami, and pepperoni. Delizioso!
