Rancio: The Bold Art of Oxidation in Wines and Spirits, from Roussillon to Cognac
The term rancio (and not rancid, which has nothing to do with it!) immediately evokes flavors that can be traced back to southern France and Mediterranean Spain.
But what does rancio really mean, and why is it so particular in both wines and spirits?
It is the result of a controlled oxidation technique that radically transforms the aromatic and flavor profile of the products, giving them unique depth and complexity.
Rancio in Wines
In the world of wine, the term rancio refers to a deliberate and prolonged oxidation process, which often occurs in the open air. This method is typical of Rancio sec wines from Catalonia and Roussillon, where the interaction between oxygen and wine is exploited. These wines are left in barrels or glass containers exposed to the sun and climatic variations, acquiring over time aromas reminiscent of toasted nuts, caramel, dried fruit, and sometimes notes of leather and exotic spices. The color changes progressively, turning to amber or dark mahogany tones.
In particular, rancio wines from Roussillon are often aged for years in environments subject to strong temperature variations. The result is a wine with a complex, almost earthy character, with an acidity that blends harmoniously with the oxidative notes.
But why do all this? In a world where we try to preserve the freshness of wines, rancio seems to go in the opposite direction. And this is precisely its charm: the wine evolves, taking on an aromatic power that makes it almost inimitable. It is a celebration of time and nature, with minimal intervention by the winemaker. These oxidative wines are often dry and are sipped slowly, paired with blue cheeses or nut desserts.
Rancio in Spirits
The concept of rancio also applies to spirits, albeit with substantial differences. In spirits, especially Cognac and Spanish Brandy, rancio refers to the set of notes that develop during long barrel aging, over 10 or 15 years. These spirits develop, through slow oxidation, hints of tobacco, leather, and sweet spices such as vanilla and cinnamon, but above all dried fruit. Not by chance, in English, the term is “nutty,” which means not only crazy, moody, or unhinged, but also nutty-nutty.
In Cognac, rancio charentais (from the name of the production region) is a mark of quality and distinction. As the spirit ages in oak barrels, it absorbs the tannins of the wood and undergoes micro-oxidation. This enriches the spirit with an aromatic complexity that is difficult to describe, but incredibly fascinating: a blend of old wood, dark honey, dark chocolate, and even mushroom in some more mature expressions.
Production Techniques and Philosophies
The common denominator of rancio, both in wine and in spirits, is time and oxidation. But the key is knowing how to balance these factors, maintaining a product that, while showing obvious signs of the passing of the years, remains lively and vibrant. Wines and spirits that show characteristics of rancio are made to be savored slowly, in small sips, in moments of reflection and with the right company.
A question arises spontaneously: how do you recognize a wine or spirit with rancio? The nose does not lie. The aromas of wet earth, oxidized nuts, and tobacco are sure clues, often accompanied by a darker color and a velvety consistency. In the mouth, the experience is long, rich, almost meditative.