Kilchoman Loch Gorm Review And Tasting Notes
The Kilchoman Loch Gorm whisky is splendid, a peaty, dry, uncompromising distillate that does not look anyone in the face and never indulges in softness. A single malt produced in Islay, home of peated malt spirits. We can safely consider it one of the purest, hardest, most contemptuous and adherent to the island’s terroir.
Usually, it is not good to make comparisons, especially in the world of Scotch. The barrels, the degree of smoking given by the peat and even the “stylistic choices” have a tremendous influence on the final product. Still, this Kilchoman Loch Gorm is a single malt so elegant that it is difficult not to fall in love.
And it is also difficult to distance yourself and not compare with the other heavyweights among the Islay distilleries.
It does not want to be sumptuous and woody like Lagavulin. It shuns the stormy abrasiveness of Ardbeg, but has a lot in common with Caol Ila, another great Islay distillery. And with Caol Ila, it shares the same propensity for herbaceous, floral and pungent suggestions, thin peat that becomes medicinal and not just abrupt smoke. It has a common point, certainly not emulation.
It is no coincidence that the Kilchoman distillery is the one of newest and smallest. It is a family-run business, where it is possible to play and be more daring with the gradations of flavors, the intensity of the peat and the aromas. Another vital factor is the total dedication to malt: the Kilchoman distillery produces, starting from the fields to the end, from A to Z, cultivates its own barley and then mortars it, makes it germinate, smokes it, grinds it, distills it. And bottles it without cold filtration.
This care is felt in the subtlety of the nuances, in the aromatic range that opens into a myriad of multifaceted flavors. This condition of craftsmanship of the production is commendable, but it pays off, given that on average Kilchoman whiskeys are, with good reason, more expensive.
How is made?
We are talking about a cuvée of 20 barrels (butts) used for sherry that blends single malts of various vintages: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2011, which rested in wood until 2019 and were mixed and bottled to obtain this sumptuous synthesis.
It starts all with the barley, which is malted and smoked with peat fire. The distillation is double and the particular shape of the stills and the contact with a greater copper surface allow the production of a more subtle and delicate single malt whiskey in floral aromas.
So they assure the Kilchoman distillery, I don’t know if that’s true, but the result is great! The distillate obtained matures for 12 years in barrels used to make sherry: in this way, it is enriched with mature, oxidized, caramelized and medicinal flavors and aromas typical of this fantastic Spanish wine. It becomes sherried and it concentrates, absorbs tannin and oxygenates itself.
The Kilchoman Loch Gorm bouquet
The fruit is still lively, pulpy, full of citrus hints, plum jam, but inlaid with salt and spices. Aging in sherry barrels has enriched it with caramelized notes and sweet spices. The pace is good, never slow or mushy, but always dictated by freshness, dynamism and sunshine.
And then there is this imposing peat frame that leaves you amazed. It is dense, compact, but perfectly intertwined with flowers and medicinal herbs. Don’t expect just pitch and charcoal, but the slow unfolding of a thousand earthy and smoky scents. Overall it is very dry, there are creamy and buttery notes, but they are well integrated and give a decadent touch to a splendid bouquet.
What does Kilchoman Loch Gorm taste like?
In the mouth, it is very vibrant, driven by salt and citrus fruits. It hits hard. It is not a caress on the palate but a delightful slap. It is not a light single malt whiskey, but in any case, the flavor that emerges is that of the biscuit of the malt to which the peat counteracts.
The structure is robust but never difficult to decipher. There is a beautiful texture where brackish flavor and orange-based acidity interact, making the sip clean and elegant.
Price
Eighty euros: it seems like a lot for a bottle, but we are talking about an elegant, handcrafted distillate, made with all the trappings, among other things, in a limited edition, 15,000 bottles in all.
Food Pairings
Chocolate or pulled pork.