Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2015 by Alexander Koppitsch review and tasting notes
The Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2015 by Alexander Koppitsch is a wine that makes you understand the depth of finesse Austrian wines can reach. Forget for a moment the usual emaciated Grüner Veltliners, pumped to death, no. This is a concentrate of fruit, herbs, ginger and rocks.
It caresses your palate with ardor, it does not allow itself to be subjected to easy aesthetic sterilizations, it escapes, it opens up in a range of a thousand flavors, but above all, it flickers, and it’s alive.
But not only because it is a so-called natural wine, but because the producer managed to make this wine his own, internalized it and then let it go. Do not be fooled. It is not a wine of non-interventionism. On the contrary, it is all studied at the table first to do as little as possible. The amounts of sulfur are also ridiculous.
A few words about the producer. Alexander Koppitsch is a biodynamic winemaker who cultivates 5 and a half hectares in Burgenland, the wine Eldorado of Austria, the home of Grüner Veltliner. It does not use selected yeasts, but only indigenous, does not filter, clarify or add garbage to his wines. And is biodynamic and scrupulous like a few others winemakers. His wines mirror this philosophy which has its roots in an aesthetic of the spontaneity of wine. There are no tricks and tweaks, but a lot of passion, competence, and flaw in the wine.
But how is this Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2015 by Alexander Koppitsch? Good, not perfect. It still kicks a little in the finish, but the salt and fruit are fabulous, sculpted with extraordinary vividness. The naturalness of the sip is incredible. Here, the spiciness (so crucial in the Gruner Veltliner) is dashed gracefully. It does not oppress. It does not dominate but rather underlines incredible aromatic cleanliness.
The bouquet
Nose with sharp fruit, lime, ginger on display, delicate spices, rocks, and almonds and seaweed finish. The variety is good, but not excellent, but it always happens on the first day with this wine. If you drink it on the second day, it opens and takes off. Persistence and finesse ok.
The taste
Tense mouth nailed to a rock whipped by the waves. The development is harmonious. It moves with a biting freshness. The ideal balance is still 2-3 years away, at least. But this is a wine that is now pleasant but can be excellent in 5 years.
Price of the Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2015 by Alexander Koppitsch
About 40 euros. It costs a lot, it is true, but if you buy it and leave it in the cellar for 5 or 10 years, you will have a masterpiece. Drunk now, it is definitely not worth it.
Food Pairings
Thick wine, very savory, with full body. Serve Thai dishes, spicy Indian dishes, pizza Margherita, tuna tataki, gnocchi with meat sauce, chicken curry, carbonara, paella.
