Gottardi Mazzon 2020: Beautiful Fruit, Fine Tannins and a Little Too Much Oak
There are Italian Pinot Noirs that try to impress with concentration, expensive oak and muscular tannins. Gottardi Pinot Nero 2020 takes a more intelligent approach. Born on the celebrated slopes of Mazzon, in Alto Adige, it offers ripe red fruit, fine acidity, carefully judged oak and the earthy, spicy complexity that makes Pinot Noir such a fascinating grape.
This is not an austere, featherweight red. The 2020 vintage has generosity, a fairly substantial mid-palate and a polished texture, but the wine never loses its sense of proportion. At around €30–35, it is a convincing example of why Mazzon remains one of Italy’s most respected territories for Pinot Noir.
The Basics
- Producer: Weingut Gottardi
- Wine: Pinot Nero Mazzon
- Vintage: 2020
- Classification: Alto Adige DOC / Südtirol DOC
- Region: Alto Adige, Italy
- Production area: Mazzon, near Egna (Neumarkt)
- Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir
- Vineyard altitude: Approximately 300–450 metres
- Soils: Sandy and silty soils with clay and limestone
- Harvest: Manual
- Fermentation: Temperature-controlled, with partial whole-cluster fermentation
- Ageing: Approximately 12 months in French barriques, around 25% new, followed by 8 months in large oak casks
- Alcohol: 13.5–14% ABV, depending on the listed bottling specification
- Bottle size: 750 ml
- Serving temperature: 15–16°C
Weingut Gottardi: A Family That Bet Everything on Pinot Noir
The Gottardi story begins in Innsbruck, where the family had already established a successful wine business before deciding to become producers themselves.
In 1986, Bruno Gottardi purchased the Fernheimhof estate in Mazzon, a small hamlet overlooking Egna in southern Alto Adige. The property initially comprised approximately six hectares of vineyards, but the family saw enough potential to undertake an extensive programme of replanting and modernisation.
The first estate-produced vintage arrived in 1995, after almost a decade of preparation. Alongside Pinot Noir, Gottardi initially cultivated Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, two varieties with an established history in Alto Adige.
Eventually, the family made a rather uncompromising decision. From 2010 onwards, the vineyards would be devoted exclusively to Pinot Noir.
Following Bruno’s death that same year, his son Alexander assumed responsibility for the estate, continuing a project built around meticulous vineyard management and a remarkably narrow specialisation.
Today, Gottardi cultivates approximately nine hectares and produces around 45,000–50,000 bottles annually. The estate’s reputation rests on its regular Pinot Nero Mazzon and a more limited Riserva produced in selected vintages.
That specialisation is significant. Pinot Noir is notoriously demanding, and making it the sole focus of an estate leaves relatively little room for agricultural or commercial compromise. Gottardi has nevertheless established itself among the recognisable names of Italian Pinot Noir, with repeated success at the regional Pinot Noir competitions.
Mazzon: Why This Small Corner of Alto Adige Matters
Mazzon is frequently described as the paradise of Pinot Noir, a nickname that has become almost unavoidable in discussions of South Tyrolean wine. Fortunately, there is considerably more behind its reputation than an attractive landscape and a memorable slogan.
The vineyards occupy a hillside above the Adige Valley, generally between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Their predominantly western exposure provides afternoon sunshine, while cooler air from the surrounding mountains moderates temperatures, particularly after sunset.
This combination helps Pinot Noir reach physiological maturity without sacrificing the acidity essential to its balance.
The soils contribute another important variable. Limestone, clay, sandy deposits and sedimentary material create conditions that differ markedly from the volcanic and porphyritic landscapes found elsewhere in Alto Adige.
The results are particularly interesting for a grape whose greatest virtue is its ability to translate relatively subtle differences in growing conditions into changes in texture, aromatic development and structure.
Mazzon Pinot Noir often has more flesh and ripeness than the most delicate expressions of the variety, together with a firm acidic backbone and enough tannic definition to support several years of bottle ageing.
Gottardi’s interpretation belongs to this tradition. The wine has substance, but its ambition is not to reproduce the density of Cabernet Sauvignon or the muscular character of a warm-climate red.
It is still recognisably Pinot Noir, with all the transparency and occasional fragility that entails.
The 2020 Vintage and Winemaking
The 2020 vintage was particularly interesting in Mazzon. The harvest delivered relatively modest quantities but good fruit quality, allowing producers to pursue ripeness without abandoning freshness.
For Gottardi, careful selection begins in the vineyard. The grapes are harvested by hand and handled through a gravity-based system designed to reduce unnecessary mechanical stress.
Fermentation takes place under controlled temperatures, with a proportion of the stems retained. This technique can contribute aromatic complexity and additional tannic structure, although its success depends heavily on stem maturity and the quality of the harvested fruit.
The subsequent ageing regime is relatively substantial for Pinot Noir.
The wine spends approximately one year in French barriques, with a quarter of the barrels new, before moving into larger wooden casks for another eight months.
This two-stage maturation helps integrate the oak while preserving the distinction between fruit and wood. The smaller barrels encourage gradual development and contribute texture, while the larger vessels allow the wine to settle without introducing excessive additional oak character.
In the 2020, the result is a Pinot Noir with evident structure and a discreet woody signature. It is not an entirely transparent, unoaked expression of the grape, but neither does the barrel dominate the wine.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Bright ruby red, beginning to show delicate garnet reflections at the rim.
Bouquet: Ripe cherry, raspberry and dried strawberry form the aromatic core, followed by violet, cinnamon and a light suggestion of forest floor. Subtle notes of tobacco, black pepper and dark chocolate add complexity. The oak is recognisable but well integrated, introducing a gentle toasted character without overwhelming the fruit.
Palate: Medium-bodied, supple and surprisingly generous on entry. The red fruit feels ripe and concentrated, although lively acidity soon brings the wine into sharper focus. Tannins are fine, precise and slightly drying towards the finish, providing structure without excessive weight. There is an attractive savoury quality beneath the fruit, accompanied by restrained spice and a faint earthy undertone.
Finish: Persistent and balanced, with red berries, pepper and delicate oak spice. The final impression is elegant, although a touch of woody dryness slightly limits the otherwise fluid texture.
Our Verdict
Gottardi Pinot Nero 2020 is a serious, accomplished South Tyrolean Pinot Noir, offering considerably more substance than its pale colour might initially suggest.
Its greatest strength is the relationship between ripe fruit and freshness. Cherry and raspberry give the wine immediate appeal, while acidity and refined tannins prevent the generous texture from becoming heavy.
The ageing is generally well managed, although the oak leaves a slightly drying impression on the finish. This is the one area where the wine feels less effortless than the finest examples of Pinot Noir, particularly those with a more delicate, transparent style.
The aromatic profile is attractive rather than astonishingly complex. Earthy and spicy notes add interest, but the fruit remains the dominant feature, and the wine does not quite achieve the haunting delicacy that distinguishes exceptional Burgundy.
That comparison should not be taken too far, however. Mazzon has its own identity, and Gottardi makes no attempt to disguise the more generous character of this Alpine terroir.
At six years from the vintage, the 2020 has reached an attractive stage of development. Its youthful fruit has begun to acquire more mature nuances, while the acidity continues to give the wine energy. It is ready to enjoy, although a further three to five years of careful cellaring should bring additional integration.
Serve at 15–16°C in a generous Burgundy glass. A short period of aeration is sufficient; prolonged decanting is unnecessary.
At approximately €30–35, Gottardi Pinot Nero 2020 is a good buy. It is not the most ethereal Pinot Noir in Italy, but its precision, concentration and balance make it a persuasive example of Mazzon’s distinctive style.
Price
€31.50.
Food Pairings
Paella, vitello tonnato, chicken curry, pulled pork, empanadas, hamburgers.
