Gewurztraminer 2011 Jeunes Vignes Marcel Deiss review and tasting notes
The Gewurztraminer 2011 Jeunes Vignes by Marcel Deiss can be taken as a reference as a typical example of Alsatian Gewurztraminer: it is explosive, rich, very sunny and spicy, sweet and with a contagious intensity.
It is not a subtle, fine and mysterious wine, Gewürz never is and by its nature, as an aromatic grape it will never be, however, this concentration, this so persuasive intertwining that is divided between tropical and oriental spices has its charm.
The wine itself is well made, it is never overripe or muscular, certainly, the structure is broad and enveloping, leaving no way out, but freshness and flavor are always ready to play down the impact, indeed the deflagration with the palate.
It is an organic wine that is born in the pleasant hills of Bergheim, at a height of 250-300 meters above sea level, with clayey and limestone soils, the oenologist is Marcel Deiss, the great interpreter of Alsatian classics such as Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. His touch is decisive but respectful, each wine has its terroir to tell, nuances to exhibit, but you will never find technical forcing or woody and overbearing refinements in its wines.
The bouquet of Gewurztraminer 2011 Jeunes Vignes by Marcel Deiss
It’s a kaleidoscope: dates, cream, mangoes, roses, marzipan, honey, plums, candied citrus. It does not stop for a moment, the phrasing between mineral, spicy and fruity tones is flowing and of great amplitude. Everything is declined with cleanliness, but as mentioned it is certainly not subtle, there are smoky and mineral references that broaden the aromatic horizons of the wine, but do not expect a subtle wine. Indeed it is quite the opposite, this spontaneity is pushed to the extreme, it is detailed, obsessive like the figurative richness of a painting by Bruegel the Elder.
The taste of Gewurztraminer 2011 Jeunes Vignes by Marcel Deiss
In the mouth, it is very structured, sweet, but never cloying, little more than sweet, but together with all the fruity suggestions, it manages to modulate a deep and savory development. The balance is good enough for such a bulky wine, it is reactive. The freshness is still good and degreases the wine a little by lengthening the momentum, but we are at the limit. This is the 2011 vintage and honestly keeping it in the cellar would be asking too much. It has done its duty very well, it has also evolved in some of its marzipan traits and the drinkability is decent. But its peak is now: 2018.
Gewurztraminer 2011 Jeunes Vignes Marcel Deiss Food Pairings
Blue cheeses and smoked and salty foods such as terrines, truffles or quiches. It is a wine that you can also combine with oysters and seafood or spaghetti with clams, pizza Margherita, pad thai, veal with tuna sauce, gnocchi with meat sauce, chicken curry, paella.
20 euros: an honest price for a well-made wine.