Ascheri Pisapola 2013: Thirteen Years Have Brought Out the Best in This Verduno Barolo
Not every Barolo needs twenty years to soften its tannins, but some deserve the patience. Ascheri’s Vigna Pisapola 2013 comes from Verduno, one of the most distinctive corners of the appellation, where Nebbiolo often develops an unusually fragrant, graceful personality. Thirteen years after the harvest, the wine has reached a particularly attractive stage, combining mature aromas with freshness and a firm, beautifully integrated structure.
There is plenty of substance here, but Pisapola is not a Barolo built around sheer power. Its appeal lies in the contrast between dried flowers, earthy complexity and a palate that remains surprisingly lively. The tannins have softened without disappearing, giving the wine definition rather than weight.
The Basics
- Producer: Matteo Ascheri
- Wine: Barolo Pisapola
- Vintage: 2013
- Appellation: Barolo DOCG
- Region: Piedmont, Italy
- Vineyard: Pisapola, Verduno
- Grape: 100% Nebbiolo
- Soils: Calcareous clay and marl
- Vineyard altitude: Approximately 310–370 metres
- Harvest: October 2013
- Fermentation: Approximately 12 days at 28°C
- Alcohol: 14% ABV
- Bottle size: 750 ml
- Serving temperature: 15–16°C
Matteo Ascheri: A Different Interpretation of Barolo
The Ascheri family’s winemaking history stretches back to La Morra, although the winery established its headquarters in Bra in 1880. At the time, Bra was an important commercial centre, with railway connections that helped local merchants bring the wines of the Langhe to wider markets.
Today Matteo Ascheri produces Barolo from vineyards in La Morra, Verduno and Serralunga d’Alba. These areas share the same great grape, but their wines can differ substantially in structure, aromatic expression and ageing behaviour.
Pisapola comes from Verduno, the northernmost village of the Barolo denomination. The vineyard occupies calcareous, clay-rich slopes that give Nebbiolo the conditions to develop perfume and finesse alongside its characteristic tannins.
Verduno is particularly interesting because its wines often favour elegance over the more imposing structure associated with Serralunga. That distinction is central to understanding the diversity of Barolo.
Ascheri began producing single-vineyard Barolos in the late 1990s, selecting sites capable of expressing different aspects of the region. Pisapola is released only in favourable vintages, with 2013 among the particularly successful examples.
The 2013 Vintage: A Slow Road to Maturity
The 2013 growing season began with a cold, rainy spring that delayed vine development. Summer eventually brought more favourable conditions, while the comparatively long ripening period allowed Nebbiolo to develop its aromatic character without excessive sugar accumulation.
Harvest came later than in many preceding vintages, extending into October. The result was a year particularly suited to wines with firm tannins, pronounced acidity and long ageing potential.
Pisapola benefited from that balance. Its original floral character remains clearly recognisable, although time has introduced a more complex savoury dimension.
The importance of Verduno becomes apparent here. Rather than relying on overwhelming concentration, the wine has developed through the gradual integration of its tannins and the persistence of its aromatic freshness.
This is also what makes the different villages and crus of Barolo so fascinating: the same grape can produce radically different personalities within a relatively compact landscape.
How It’s Made
Pisapola is produced exclusively from Nebbiolo grown in the estate’s Verduno vineyards.
Fermentation lasts approximately twelve days at 28°C, a relatively measured extraction that preserves the wine’s aromatic identity while developing sufficient tannic structure.
Ascheri’s approach combines traditional large oak casks with a smaller proportion of French tonneaux. This allows the wine to mature gradually without acquiring an excessively pronounced new-oak character.
The method suits Pisapola particularly well. Nebbiolo already possesses considerable tannins and aromatic complexity; the objective is to refine those qualities rather than cover them with toast and vanilla.
Thirteen years after the harvest, the result is a harmonious wine whose mature character has developed without sacrificing the freshness of the original vintage.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Garnet red with brick reflections and a luminous, translucent rim.
Bouquet: Dried violets and rose petals mingle with tobacco, leather and a delicate earthy note. A trace of mature fruit and sweet spice adds warmth, while the overall impression remains refined and wonderfully fragrant.
Palate: Silky on entry, with a firm but finely integrated tannic structure. The fruit has acquired a savoury character, supported by lively acidity and a subtle balsamic freshness. There is considerable depth without excessive weight, although the tannins still provide a distinctly dry, traditional Barolo finish.
Finish: Long, elegant and gently spicy, with persistent liquorice, tobacco and a delicate earthy bitterness.
Our Verdict
Ascheri Pisapola 2013 is an excellent mature Barolo, combining the floral identity of Verduno with the structure and freshness of a particularly successful vintage.
The bouquet is its greatest strength. Thirteen years of development have brought complexity without erasing the wine’s original perfume, while the palate retains enough energy to prevent the mature aromas from becoming tired or overly delicate.
The tannins remain noticeable, but their texture is refined and the balance is convincing. Its only real limitation is a certain firmness towards the finish, which interrupts the otherwise supple progression.
Unlike more muscular examples from Serralunga, Pisapola impresses through aromatic detail and elegance. It captures a particularly appealing side of Nebbiolo and the Langhe, where freshness matters just as much as concentration.
At thirteen years from the vintage, the wine is drinking beautifully, with enough structure to remain interesting over the next few years.
A beautiful Barolo, mature but still energetic. The 2013 shows why Verduno deserves attention far beyond its most famous vineyards.
Price
€63.
Food Pairings
Paella, vitello tonnato, chicken curry, pulled pork, empanadas, hamburgers.
