Arcaica by Paolo Francesconi 2016: a natural orange wine for those who love wines with character
Paolo Francesconi’s Arcaica 2001 is an extraordinary wine from Romagna. One of those rocky, macerated, and elegant Albana wines that show the potential of such an ancient and glorious vine.
It is an orange wine, a wine that has undergone 60 days of maceration on the skins; therefore, it is not a squeeze of straw-colored lemon juice with all its acid and small flowers. No, this is a kaleidoscope of spicy scents, resins, fruit in alcohol, incense, and herbs.
On the palate, it has a thousand faces; it is multifaceted, and the tannins are well designed and give endless structure, impetus, and personality. And don’t think that there are spices in the wood; it is not vanilla; on the contrary, it was born and matured only in concrete, yet those notes of anise, licorice, and cinnamon are irresistible and very clear.
It has body, lively acidity, and layers of salt, but as we’ve already said, it’s not a Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio that should be served at 8 degrees. In fact, this wine should be served at the same temperature as a red, which is 15 to 16 degrees.
If you cool it too much, it will become tannic and unpleasant, so be mindful of the serving temperature; otherwise, you will ruin it before you even leave.
Paolo Francesconi is now a shining example of biodynamic viticulture, not only in Romagna but all over Italy. This is because he has a lot of passion, never gives up, is very wise, and works well with his own vineyards.
No chemicals are used in the field; only biodynamic preparations are used; the harvest and all the operations are done by hand; and only indigenous yeasts are used during the vinification.
Obviously, there are no clarifications or additions of additives.
A true lover of natural wines would tell you that this is wine; it has body and spirit; this is the result of the first fermentation and then of the malolactic fermentation; it is terroir juice.
And this is true: the wine is thick, consistent, and alive; it changes not only in the glass after a very first shyness.
No, it also changes over the days, so much so that after three weeks, it still hasn’t lost its edge and manages to seduce you with a mature and decadent charm.
How it’s done
Harvest, then it is destemmed and vinified without pressing. Vinification in steel, spontaneous fermentation 60 days of maceration and aging in steel
Tasting notes
The color can be seen in the photo: a sparkling and pure amber that immediately invites. The nose is complex, ripe as an attack, with candied fruit, dates, plums, sherry tones, oxidatives, nutmeg, and dark tones of almost syrup.
But then it lights up; it jumps through flowering gullies where windows and hazelnuts grow under the sun. The beauty of this wine lies in the naturalness with which it displays its elegant complexity.
He does it calmly and in a persuasive way, wave after wave, alternating spices, incense, a caste of flowers, and then again spices, pine resin.
You can find everything in it, but don’t think it’s a Gewurztraminer punching you in the face. This is more like a watercolor, with soft tones and splashes of color that emerge to illuminate the scene.
On the palate, the taste is full, juicy, and tannic, but straight and very clean, with good mineral thickness and good balance. The tannins are designed for mastery and support without ever being bulky.
Now you can find the 2018 vintage on the market; it’s certainly worthy, but don’t be in a hurry. This is not a vintage wine that is all juice and that’s it.
Here is matter that is maturing and taking shape; there is depth and a life in full gestation. Ripe cereal tones are peeking out now.
If you consider that it is very fresh, salty, and tannic, it can aspire to 20 or more years of refinement without fear, so since it is sold at a ridiculous price, stock up on it and leave it in the cellar to drink it every year.
Price
15–17 euros: an excellent price for a great wine from Romagna, one of the best interpretations of the Albana vine.
Pairings
Excellent to combine with Thai dishes, Indian cuisine, or even to enhance cold cuts and white meats. Try it with pad thai, chicken curry, or grilled duck breast.
