Journey to the Top of Japan: Discovering the Unique Flavors of Hakushu 12-year-old Single Malt Whisky
The Hakushu 12-year-old single malt whisky is one of the most elegant and delicate Japanese distillates. It has green and pungent herbaceous notes that mix with a thread of peat, a lot of flowers, and a sour and clear fruit.
It is without a doubt one of the most interesting and unique Japanese whiskeys you will ever try, but the Hakushu distillery is Suntory’s flagship and makes whiskey in a unique way.
Consider that the Hakushu distillery is in the green woods of the Japanese Alps, 700 meters above sea level. If you go there, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into a manga and could see Princess Mononoke coming out from behind an old oak.
The distillery that is thought to be the coolest in Japan has a very simple secret: they never cut corners on quality. And we’re not talking about how much malt costs. Instead, we’re talking about a striking Japanese fetish. Forget the boring and overly-styled blends. Hibiki is delicious and smooth, but if you want to venture into the world of genuine Japanese whiskey, try this Hakushu 12-year-old single malt whisky.
The air here in the mountains is clean and clear, and the water used to make whiskey comes from the snow on Mount Kaikoma. The malt used to make whiskey comes from Scotland, and the distillery has no less than 12 different stills, each with a clear job to do. precise. It’s crazy how much productive fanaticism there is.
But don’t think that the Japanese are cloning DNA from Scotland. You might think that the Japanese just took an idea from Scotland and made it work in Japan by creating similar conditions. Such a place, with mountains, woods, and copper stills that don’t connect, isn’t a simple question.
Behind it is a search for beauty that only the stubborn Japanese could feed. But let’s talk about our favorite 12-year-old whisky. Now that you know where it comes from, let’s talk about it.
Hakushu 12 year old single malt whisky’s organoleptic characteristics
The bouquet is a whisper of the woods, a swirl of green notes of mallow, pear, alpine grass and herbs, basil, sage, olives, fennel, and then leaves and earthy tones that remind me of the ethereal finesse of a Barolo. The fruit is also green, sharp, and juicy. It tastes like a mix of lemons and apples and has a hint of chestnut honey. It tastes like peppers at first, then bananas, and then pine, ginger, and horseradish. The variety is amazing, and the finesse is unique and dropped with perfect accuracy. Barely said anything about peat, and a fire in the distance was still burning with embers.
On the palate, it is floral and opens petal by petal, alternating sweet flavors with small doses of wood and a herbaceous charge that tastes like chlorophyll, musk, and lemongrass. It sounds like a lemon panna cotta, but it is much more than that.
The malt has become sharper, showing its more woody and shy side, if you will. Don’t for a second think of fruity bombs pumped out of sherry casks like Macallan or Glenfarclas.
This is a call of the wild set to a delicate score. Extreme persistence and unusual clarity, thanks in part to a slight puff of smoke that ties all the other ideas together.
As pleasant as it is, being herbaceous and full of melon, bananas, and subtlety, the structure is remarkable. It might not hit the palate because the heat is under control, but the texture is remarkable.
The three days that the wash ferments is what gives it a fresh, herbaceous taste. This is a long time that lets the lactobacilli grow and work, leaving their mark during a key step in making whiskey. There is no room for luck.
Hos is made?
This is where the skill of Japanese distillers comes into play: the 12-year-old Hakushu is a blend of 3 batches of the same single malt that were made in different ways. The first one was aged in used bourbon casks, the second in used sherry casks, and the third in used bourbon casks with a light amount of peat.
The Hakushu distillery likes to use old bourbon barrels for aging because, after years of research and testing, they have found that aging in these barrels is less dramatic and more delicate. The reason has to do with the microclimate: the air is colder, cleaner, and moves around less, which slows down the aging process and makes it less noticeable.
Price
190-200 euros. It’s not a cheat at all, and it’s a lot of money, but it’s a fair price for a whisky of this thickness. Think about how the Hakushu 18 costs at least €600 and the Hakushu 25 costs at least €5300.
We’re not debating whether it’s ethical to spend money on a bottle of whiskey: what is certain is that these distillates are the result of a one-of-a-kind, unrepeatable terroir, of so much care, infinite passion, and attention that you won’t find even in Scotland.
Consider this: the Hibiki Japanese Harmony master’s choice is discreet and only 140 euros; add 50-60 euros and you’ve got yourself a tiny masterpiece.