2019 Tenuta Montauto Pinot Noir Review And Tasting Notes
Drinking the 2019 Tenuta Montauto Pinot Noir was a breathtaking experience, I must be honest. It was presented as an excellent Pinot Noir from Maremma, and my hair immediately stood on end.
It’s a warm area, more suitable for fleshy gaucho reds or battle Vermentinos, certainly not suited for the production of delicate wines, but I had to change my mind very quickly.
Of course, Pinot Noir goes a long way in Tuscany: Civettaia is the revelation wine that everyone wants, from hipsters to gourmands; still, Maremma is far south of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.
Nonetheless, the Montauto estate has succeeded in producing a wine with depth, elegance, and subtle finesse and points to a Burgundian charm, at least as a nose.
It’s a small corner of the hill, with special conditions. Riccardo Lepri has been producing excellent Sauvignon Blancs for years on the hills of Campigliola, where thanks to soils rich in limestone and quartz, even a grumpy vine like Pinot Noir manages to find ideal conditions.
We are talking about a hill slope, a few hectares, what is an ideal cru and not 10 hectares. The height of 200 meters, the substantial temperature range between day and night, and the short distance from the sea help keep the grapes fresh and fragrant, avoiding the “jam effect.”
Another consideration must be made: the vines are 15 years old, so this wine is conceptually young, but we started on the right foot, and as the vines age, the depth will increase. These intuitions are welcome. There is never enough Pinot Noir, especially when sold at an attractive price.
Harvest at the end of August. Maceration for seven days with spontaneous fermentation in wooden barrels and refinement in new and used barriques. 600 bottles per year.
Grumpy, very earthy, and ethereal bouquet just uncorked, but then it opens, and after two hours, all the floral and ginger charm emerges. The air is austere, dry, and rocky, with rhubarb, lacquer, and soy sauce. The wood is perfectly dosed. It is only a distant memory and does not bother.
The palate is slender, precise, and well played between tannic tension and ethereal fruit. It moves delicate and subtle. The tannins are precise but smooth. Excellent persistence: you will drink it to the last drop. It is already balanced but not mature: it could easily evolve for 10-15 years.
24-27 euros: an honest price for an excellent Tuscan wine that doesn’t change your life but knows how to entertain you gracefully.
It is not a massive wine, but thanks to its excellent acidity, it can be paired with meat dishes, Indian spicy recipes, or even simple Chinese takeaway food: a superb all-rounder to always keep ready in your cellar. Tacos, black truffle risotto, passatelli with Parmigiano fondue and truffle, bucatini all’amatriciana, roast beef, hamburger.