Prosecco’s ‘Annus Horribilis’: The Harvest That Almost Wasn’t
Unpredictable weather and labor shortages have led experts to label this year’s Prosecco harvest an “annus horribilis.”
Heatwaves and floods have ravaged Italy’s Consorzio di Tutela del Prosecco DOC, typically a source of 130 million bottles for the UK market alone. The remaining grapes face an uncertain future due to a labor shift toward construction and logistics, says Giosue Mattei of the CGIL union.
Innocente Nardi, owner of La Farra vineyard, remarked, “Skilled labor is scarce. Fewer people are willing to do manual work these days.”
Sandro Bottega, founder of Bottega SpA, called it a “nightmare year for Prosecco,” adding, “I’ve never seen a harvest like this in four decades. Once optimistic, I’m now deeply discouraged.”
Recent studies also indicate that climate change could obliterate mountain vineyards, affecting not just Prosecco but various grapes. Dr. Paolo Tarolli, the study’s lead author, warned that the loss would extend beyond agriculture, erasing communities’ history and culture. He urged a blend of traditional winemaking wisdom with scientific innovation.
Stefano Zanette, president of the Consorzio, downplayed the grim projections. He acknowledged some poor harvests but said machinery mitigated the labor issue, adding that the overall drop in production was less than feared.
