Why You Shouldn’t Overlook Apia: Samoa’s Hidden Cultural Heartbeat

The large crowds, the chaos of cars, and the rubbish-strewn surroundings make the capital of Samoa a destination not usually loved by travelers. However, if you do not limit yourself to a superficial analysis, you will discover that Apia is a city with much to offer, in terms of architecture, art, and culture. Walking through the streets of the center, you will be immersed in the unique atmosphere that permeates the entire urban area, where the historical soul and the unbridled desire for modernity coexist—though not without some discord. It is worth spending enough time to fully experience the markets, bars, and the pleasant vibrancy that animates the waterfront, as well as to get a taste of authentic Samoan life.

Exploring Apia’s Geography

Geographically, Apia is located on the northern coast of the island of Upolu, the second largest in the archipelago after Savai’i. The city, which boasts the country’s main port, is nestled within a natural inlet near the mouth of the Vaisigano River, which has created the coastal plain that extends to the foot of Mount Vaea over the millennia. The course of the Vaisigano is crossed by two main bridges, over which pass the major roads of the capital.

The Palolo Deep Marine Reserve

The main attraction in Apia is undoubtedly the Palolo Deep Marine Reserve, a beautiful stretch of shallow reef with a deep coral cave full of marine life. There are also submerged cages full of giant clams just off the coast. The best time to visit is at high tide, as it’s easy to get scratched on the coral at low tide.

The Markets of Apia

The city’s three main markets will delight any shopper. The largest is Maketi Fou, a 24-hour fresh market that’s almost always packed with Samoans buying vegetables, meats, and sweets, and devouring palusami, which is coconut cream cooked in banana leaves and wrapped in taro leaves. Craft enthusiasts will find treasures such as siapo, wood carvings, coconut husk jewelry, kirikiti clubs and balls, lava-lava, and T-shirts. The atmosphere is further enhanced by the smoky, chaotic bus station next door.

Further down the waterfront is the flea market, a maze of small stalls selling all the crafts listed above and more. Next to the flea market is the fish market, where every Sunday there’s a scramble to grab the freshest fish for the after-church to’onai.

Apia’s Spiritual Side: Churches and Monuments

No one seems to know for sure how many churches there are in and around Apia, but their number and size are a sure sign of the importance of Christianity in the archipelago. On Sunday mornings, all Apia residents wear white to attend religious services, some of which are held in English and are also open to tourists. Apia’s harbor is dominated by the Catholic Cathedral, a white church from 1905, recognizable by the Madonna on the roof, which was once used as a landmark for boats returning to the city, until government and banking offices were built opposite.

In front of the now deconsecrated Congregational Christian Church stands the John Williams Monument, a simple memorial dating back to 1930, while the bones of the famous reverend are preserved under the church.

Museums and Galleries

If you are a history buff, you should visit the small Samoan Museum, which illustrates the country’s culture with old photographs, displays of traditional crafts, and various artifacts such as carved canoes. The Madd Gallery is a contemporary art gallery set up by the painter Momoe von Reiche more than 20 years ago with the aim of reawakening interest in local art.

Climate and How to Get There

Apia has a tropical climate, with long, hot, humid summers and virtually no winters. Temperatures tend to range between 20 and 28 degrees on average, although in summer they can reach nearly 40°C. During the rainy season, characterized by the monsoon from November to April, almost all of the nearly 8,000 mm of rain that wets the capital of Samoa falls, which is also prone to hurricanes during the summer season.

All flights from abroad land at Faleolo Airport, west of Apia. To reach the airport from the capital, just take any bus marked with “Pasi o le Va’a” or “Faleolo.” Alternatively, there are shuttles run by private companies. Buses connecting Apia to virtually all other parts of Upolu leave from Maketi Fou, the main market, and from the car park behind the flea market. There is also a daily ferry service across Apolima Strait between Upolu and Savai’i.