The ultimate city guide to Siena, Italy
Siena can boast the Palio, one of the most famous Italian traditions in the world, and a medieval center so rich in works of art that it looks like an open-air museum. The provincial capital of 53,000 inhabitants, nestled right in the center of beautiful Tuscany, is second only to Florence in terms of historical, architectural and artistic jewels.
The Palio of Siena
Those who visit Siena on the occasion of the Palio (early July and mid-August) are infected by the passion and ardor of the Sienese people, proud of their traditions. It made the medieval joust a reason for living, so much so that even today every single district is a bit like a small town within the city. The days of the Palio have been the same for centuries: July 2 (Palio della Madonna di Provenga) and August 16 (Palio dell’Assunta) Siena is sold out, and it is almost impossible to find a place in the hotel if you do not book at large. advance.
To tell the truth, the preparation of the Palio begins long before the summer, when the organizers keep in touch with jockeys and horse owners and the latter are constantly trained; then in May, we enter the lively atmosphere of the competition, with the extraction of the participating districts (ten per year, out of seventeen existing). Beyond the day of the Career, or the real horse race, each Palio lasts four days between general rehearsals, festive events and entertainment.
What to see in the center of Siena
Those who choose a different period will have fewer logistical difficulties and will still discover an exciting city: among the splendid Tuscan hills, immortalized by many Renaissance frescoes, Siena is a concentration of historic buildings, monuments, streets and extremely scenic squares. If the historic village is dominated by the Medici Fortress (Forte di Santa Barbara), the beating heart of the city is Piazza del Campo, nicknamed the Campo by the Sienese, with its original shell plan divided into nine sectors by an elegant pavement. The square is dominated by the Palazzo Pubblico, seat of the Town Hall and the Civic Museum, flanked by the slender Torre del Mangia which, with its lightning rod, is just over 100 meters high.
Both the Palazzo Comunale and the tower are open to the public, which can be visited for a fee throughout the year except on Christmas day: the palace houses remarkable frescoes and from the top of the “lay bell tower” you can enjoy a splendid view over the rooftops of Siena. . In the same square is the Fonte Gaia, a monumental public fountain inaugurated in 1346 and decorated with sculptural reliefs the following century by Jacopo della Quercia. Another must-see fountain in the center of Siena is the Fontebranda, which was mentioned in the XXX Canto of Dante’s Divine Comedy.
The entire medieval historic center has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1995. Walking through the wide main streets and the narrowest and most picturesque lanes, you can breathe the atmosphere of a small district, among artisan shops, cafes and shops of various kinds. From Piazza del Campo you can quickly reach the Loggia della Mercanzia, then take the Via di Città and arrive at Piazza del Duomo. Another beautiful scenic view of the historic center of Siena can be enjoyed from the market square.
From here you can then go to the masterpiece church of the Italian Roman-Gothic, the Duomo of Siena, with its unmistakable marble facade built by Nicola Pisano at the end of the thirteenth century. The interior is also splendid, starting with the precious floor which is entirely shown to the public only on special occasions. Among the most important works of art, the marble Pergamum of Pisano, various creations by great artists including Donatello, Duccio da Buoninsegna and Bernini. Also in the unfinished part of the new Cathedral, you will find the Opera Museum, simply not to be missed!
The adjoining Piccolomini Library contains works by Michelangelo and Pinturicchio. Do not miss the adjacent Baptistery of San Giovanni where inside you can see frescoes of the fifteenth century.
If art is your passion, you cannot leave Siena without having spent at least two hours at the National Art Gallery, located southeast of the Duomo, just a few minutes walk away. The priceless treasure of Sienese school paintings was opened to the public in 1932, and also includes the works previously preserved in the Academy of Fine Arts.
The period covered goes from the thirteenth to the eighteenth century and the exhibition itinerary begins on the second floor to proceed chronologically downwards. Among the artists represented it is enough to mention Duccio di Buoninsegna, Simone Martini, Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti and Domenico Beccafumi.
After so many monuments, especially on a hot summer day, nothing better than a breath of fresh air in the Botanical Garden which is located within the medieval walls of the city.
Another form of art in which the Sienese are masters – perhaps less noble but certainly not to be missed – is food and wine. The cuisine of Siena, like all Tuscan cuisine, is a riot of strong flavors obtained with genuine products, accompanied by fine wines including Chianti in its many varieties, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino and Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The tastiest recipes are those of pici, large hand-made spaghetti, ribollita of vegetables and legumes with toasted bread, roasts and game, and the inevitable desserts including Cavallucci (Christmas sweets spiced with cinnamon, anise, walnuts, candied citron and orange), berriquocoli (a variant of Cavallucci, excellent with Vinsanto), ricciarelli (soft marzipan biscuits) and panforte.
Events and festivals
In addition to the aforementioned Palio, we would like to point out the CiocoSi event, the chocolate fair in piazza del campo in spring. During Advent, it is instead time for the Christmas Markets. Finally, on the third Sunday of the month, except in August, you will find the Antiques Market in Piazza del Mercato.
When to go to Siena and how to get there
As mentioned, the Palio period (early July and mid-August) is the most turbulent for those who want to visit Siena. Certainly attending the medieval joust is an experience of strong impact, which brings visitors closer to the local tradition, but for this to be possible without stress or inconvenience, it is good to organize in time, book accommodation well in advance and prepare to be patient for the crowds.
If you are more interested in the monumental heritage of the city, it is better to prefer other times of the year. Each season has its peculiarities: spring and autumn are optimal for temperature and light, but some rain must be taken into account; summer is hot and sunny, sometimes a little too hot for a pleasant walk in the center; finally, winter can reach values below zero, but it brings with it all the charm of the Christmas atmosphere.
Reaching Siena is simple. By car, take the A1 Autostrada del Sole on the Rome-Milan section: from the north, exit at Florence-Impruneta and continue on the Florence-Siena highway, while from the south, exit at Valdichiana and take the S.S. 326. For those arriving by train, Siena station is a few kilometers from the historic center, reachable by bus in 5 minutes. The closest airports are Amerigo Vespucci in Florence and Galileo Galilei in Pisa.
