Lambrusco: 8 things that will make you love the wine of Matilda of Tuscany
Hemingway said: “There is more philosophy in a bottle of wine than in all the books in the world.” Ernst was a good guy, he knew a lot about wine: the wine was his lens through which he saw the world. The same is Lambrusco, is the key to understand Emilia and its old, marvelous cities such as Modena, Parma and Reggio Emilia. It’s an ancient land that fought against many emperors of the Holy Roman Empire and has seen the flowering of the Renaissance. And over the centuries, Lambrusco has been the constant companion of the great culinary tradition that has made Emilia the capital of taste.
1. Matilda of Canossa
Matilda of Canossa is one of the most intriguing historical figures of the Middle Ages. Not only for her political resourcefulness but especially for the magnificent castles that dot the hills of Reggio Emilia, the center of her ancient kingdom. From Scandiano to Canossa you can live history and the battles that occurred during the war between the Papacy and the Empire. “Going to Canossa” is not just a saying, but a medieval trip to a wonderland where small villages, castles and vineyards alternate to create a unique landscape. If you are doing a wine and food tour in Reggio and Modena, do not miss the castles of Montechiarugolo, Rossena and Montecchio.
2. Balsamic vinegar: the black gold of Modena and Reggio Emilia
If you are visiting wineries for tastings in Modena and Reggio Emilia looking for a good Lambrusco, do not miss the opportunity to taste the traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena and Reggio. It is a product diametrically opposed to Lambrusco, glossy and complex, with a minimum age of 12 years, however, let’s not forget that the cooked must (mosto cotto) is made from Lambrusco and Trebbiano pressed grapes. The “must-visit” places for your vinegar tasting are two historical acetaie, Villa San Donnino and Barbolini, in Modena, and the Reggiana winery in Reggio, where you can find top-notch Lambrusco and some old grapes like Malbo Gentile.
3. Lambrusco is fantasy, a dream of a midsummer night
Lambrusco is the lifeblood of an area that has very different traditions and climatic conditions. In Modena, we have the trinity of Lambrusco, which coincide with the three places of origin: Sorbara, the most ethereal and elegant, Salamino di Santa Croce, which is an intermediate version, and finally the Lambrusco Grasparossa of Castelvetro, the most intense, fruity, with medium body and a plump foam. In Reggio Emilia, we can taste Sorbara and Salamino and finally the more rustic Lambrusco Maestri holds court in the hills of Parma.
4. Salami and Parmigiano Reggiano
Lambrusco is a wine created to accompany the flavors of Emilia and its rich dishes. It’s not the wine to be put in the cellar for 15 years, it’s not fine and cerebral like Barolo, it doesn’t have the subtle charm of the Brunello di Montalcino, but no matter, this is not its purpose. Lambrusco is a concentrate of pure drinkability, which finds its peak when paired with salami from Emilia such as Parma Ham, San Secondo cooked shoulder, Cotechino (a delicious boiled sausage), pancetta Canusina (a kind of bacon), Culatello di Zibello and we stop here, but we could go on forever.
5 Lambrusco is an anarchic wine, with a thousand faces
We proudly disclaim step 4: Lambrusco is a complex, refined, well-structured wine with powerful tannins, and not sparkling. Or at least so it is the Ubi Maior, a great Lambrusco made from dried grapes, yes like the Amarone! We also recommend trying the other Lambrusco of the Pederzana winery: silky as well as surprising is the Ubi Maior.
6. Lambrusco Metodo Classico
Lambrusco is a breezy wine, famous for its intriguing bouquet and freshness intriguing: some winemakers, with these premises, have started making some very high-quality sparkling wines, Spumante Metodo Classico. We want to mention only Christian Bellei, a wine artist, a virtuoso of the bubbles that prompted the Lambrusco well beyond its limits.
7. Lambrusco has no limits when it comes down to matching food
Are you looking for a wine for your hot, delicious Kansas City ribs, kebabs, yakitori? The juicy fruit of the Lambrusco Grasparossa is perfect. Do you want a wine for sushi, lobster and oysters? A Lambrusco from Sorbara, even better a pink wine, with a cascade of strawberries is what is right for you. Do you want a wine for a super easy roasted salmon with some mushrooms? Let’s uncork a good bottle of Lambrusco Salamino and let’s get the party started!
8. Pride and quality are the coin of the realm
Even an 18 million bottle giant winery like Cavicchioli, produces excellent bottles: we are talking about the selection Vigna del Cristo, the most famous Lambrusco cru, near Sorbara.