Experience Havana: The Ultimate Travel Guide for the Adventurous
Havana (La Habana in Spanish)
Havana is one of the world’s most beautiful cities. Tastes and opinions differ, but the opulent appeal of Cuba’s capital draws millions of tourists from around the world each year. The beauty and poetry of Havana may be found everywhere: in the streets, in the worn arcades, in the colonial houses, in the old American vehicles that still ply the streets, and in the omnipresent music and spontaneity of its people.
The city’s history
The city was founded on December 17, 1519, with the name San Cristóbal de La Habana; previously, the urban nucleus stood about sixty kilometers further south, overlooking the Caribbean Sea, but mosquitoes forced the settlers to relocate to the Atlantic coast. The pirates, on the other hand, would not let it rest: in 1538, they entirely destroyed it, and it was not until the second part of the 16th century that it began to develop.
In 1607, it replaced Santiago de Cuba as the country’s capital; in the 18th century, the city transitioned from Spanish to English control, then back again under Spanish influence. The colonial and militarily turbulent past is still visible today in the fortresses that dominate the entrance to Havana’s bay, respectively the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, the Castillo de los Tre Reyes Magnos del Morro, and the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaa; from the latter, the caonazo ceremony is repeated every evening, a costumed representation of the old closure of the walls and the port in colonial times. The caonazo has become a national cultural treasure, and it concludes at 21 with a cannon shot in blanks at Old Havana on the other side of the bay.
The revolution and its impact
The war between Spain and the United States in 1898 handed Cuba over to the United States, at least as a protectorate; despite its official independence, US influence in the island’s affairs was intense. During the first half of the twentieth century, Cuba was transformed into a free land of American vices: casinos, prostitutes, and the mafia wreaked havoc on the capital’s streets. It took a revolution—or, more accurately, the Revolución, led by Fidel Castro—to change things: the barbudos’ victorious arrival into the capital on January 1, 1959, changed the history of Cuba and, in some ways, the entire world.
Since then, the city has clearly experienced a parallel reality in comparison to the rest of the countries, not just the American ones: the Revolución’s socialism has frozen and preserved for decades some aspects of Havana and its inhabitants from the pitfalls of capitalism and the global market, making it unique. It is consequently typical to see vintage Chevrolets or Plymouths from the 1950s going by on the seashore, the lovely Malecón, or others parked in the streets of vintage Havana with the hood open, waiting for some improvised replacement part. Cubans have become accustomed to tourists photographing their automobiles, which plod and spew black smoke but refuse to stop, thanks to the capacity of the world’s best mechanics to innovate and always find a solution with what they can find.
Must-Visit Places in La Havana
It takes many days to truly see Havana, which is brimming with ideas and perspectives. With a population of 2,100,000 people, Havana is now the Caribbean’s largest city, but it keeps a genuine and popular feel, never too hectic and certainly light years distant from the rhythms of western metropolises. We learnt to adore it and uncover its secrets, essence, and multiple faces, which are often extremely different from one another, via our repeated visits. To simplify things, let’s say that for tourists, there are a few must-see neighborhoods: La Habana Vieja, Centro Habana, the Barrio Chino, and Vedado, but if you have some time and possibly some Cuban friends, it’s also worth going into other, less traveled by foreigners, neighborhoods to understand their reality. However, Havana is a peaceful and generally safe city, the least hazardous of the Latin American capitals and the majority of the world’s cities.
Havana Vieja
The exploration of the city normally begins with Old Havana, which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. The Capitolio is a 1920s edifice that is an identical replica of the Capitol in Washington, and in the parking area in front of it, a bunch of burning 1950s American cars await tourists to offer them a taxi tour of the city. Nearby, the Parque Central’s covered trees are a popular site for men to engage intense talks about pelota (baseball), the national sport.
The Paseo del Prado (or Paseo de Mart), an elegant tree-lined pedestrian street overlooking extraordinary buildings such as the Gran Teatro de La Habana and the Hotel Inglaterra (opened in 1856), begins from the Parque Central and leads up to the Malecón.
However, before heading to the Malecón, we recommend taking a tour of one of Havana’s most touristic streets: Calle Obispo, which also houses the famous El Floridita bar (on the corner with Calle Monserrate), famous for being one of Ernest Hemingway’s favorite spots (there’s a statue of him inside) and where the Daiquiri was invented. The second bar Hemingway frequented was La Bodeguita del Medio (Calle Empedrado 207), where he drank mojitos.
By walking between Calle Obispo and the parallel streets (Calle O’Reilly, Calle Empedrardo, and Calle Brasil, among others), you may reach the city’s historic district, which includes Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza Vieja, and Plaza San Francisco de Assis. The Castillo de la Real Fuerza, the oldest fort in the Americas, is located on the Plaza de Armas and was built in 1577. Simply walking about and looking around will reveal old structures next to each other as well as museums of various types, such as the Bacard Building or the Museo-Casa Natal de José Mart, the Father of the Cuban Homeland, who was born in the current Calle Leonor Pérez n°314 in 1853.
Despite the neighborhood’s apparent decadence, restoration work has been ongoing for decades, gently rescuing and restoring Havana to its former beauty.
Further north, along Avenida de las Misiones, you’ll find the Museo de la Revolución, a must-see for anybody interested in contemporary Cuban history.
The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is not far away, separated into two buildings—one on the corner of Calle Agramonte and Calle San Rafael, the other on Calle Trocadero—and has interesting collections of global and Cuban art.
Centro Habana, Malecón, and Barrio Chino
The Centro Habana sector is located west of the Capitolio; directly behind the structure is the Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás, one of the city’s oldest cigar factories. The famed Cohiba and Montecristo cigars are made there, and group trips can be taken there for a charge. The Fuente de la India, located next to the Capitolio on Parque de la Fraternidad, is a Carrara marble fountain carved by the Italian Giuseppe Gaggini.
The Centro Habana neighborhood is roughly included between Avenida Galiano and Avenida Infanta, the two streets that border it to the east and west, respectively, while the northern limit is the Malecón, the famous promenade that is the true heart of life for habaneros: it is the world’s longest city promenade (over 7 km from Old Havana to Miramar), made famous by photographs and films such as Buena Vista Social Club. The waves smashing on the rocks and invading the road have long been one of its distinguishing qualities; for the rest, simply put, the residents like living it, strolling, meeting here, and perhaps even dancing by the Atlantic.
Calle Cuchillo is the lifeblood of the Barrio Chino. It may seem unbelievable, but Havana has its own Chinatown. Thousands of Chinese arrived in Havana in the nineteenth century to work on plantations or on railway construction. In truth, the majority of them fled Cuba during the twentieth century, drawn by the higher economic opportunities given by the neighboring United States. As a result, there are few Chinese in the Barrio Chino today; however, a strange Asian touch remains, most notably the door donated by China in 1999 and installed at the beginning of Calle Dragones, some bilingual signs, and a few Chinese-Cuban fusion cuisine restaurants in Calle Cuchillo.
Miramar and Vedado
El Vedado is Havana’s modern district, with a precisely orthogonal plan, and is home to the wealthy. Here are some of the city’s largest hotels, including the Hotel Habana Libre, the elegant Hotel Nacional, and other casas particulares. The prominent Universidad de La Habana (corner of Calle L and Calle San Lázaro) is also located in Nel Vedado. Not far from Calle San Lázaro, between the University and Parque Maceo, on the Malecón, a narrow street covered with murals that is considered a bit of the temple of Afro-Cuban culture and its music, the rumba, attracts many tourists every day, especially on Sundays: it is the Callejón de Hamel. The rumba is played live on Sundays at noon and is an ideal way for visitors to connect, at least musically, with santera, the syncretic rite popular in Cuba that merges Christian and African divinities. For the remainder, if you’re interested in Afro-Cuban culture, go on a tour of the Regla district, Havana’s black soul.
The fulcrum of Vedado is Calle 23, popularly known as La Rampa, a roadway that runs from the Malecón across the neighborhood, crossing all the streets perpendicularly (called alphabetically or progressively with even numbers). There are numerous commercial activities in the district, including the Coppelia ice cream parlor, at the crossroads of calle 23 and calle L, made famous by the 1994 film Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate), where we witness every day the ritual of cola (the queue) of Cubans who pay in pesos, waiting to enter, but also some cinemas and theaters (famous, for example, the Cine Yara and the Cine Riviera on calle 23 or the Teatro Nacional de Cuba, in the Plaza de la Revolución).
Just Plaza de la Revolución is one of the most well-known in the country; despite its ugliness (it is, after all, a large square surrounded by austere buildings), the enormous silhouette of Che Guevara that stands out on the facade of the Ministry of the Interior is one of Cuba’s most enduring symbols. Since 2009, the effigy of Camilo Cienfuegos, Che and Fidel’s revolutionary buddy who died in a plane crash in 1959, has also been added.
The Memorial to José Mart, a massive complex 138.5 meters high devoted to the hero of freedom, is also located in the area, which is mostly used by the government for large political demonstrations. We are in the center of Cuban political power, so don’t be surprised if you encounter a lot of police officers and troops; the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Cuba is also located behind the Mart monument. The massive 17-meter statue depicts Mart seated and thinking; behind the statue is a museum, and people who choose can climb to a height of 129 meters on the memorial’s belvedere to observe a suggestive view of the city from above.
In the Vedado district, there is also the city’s primary cemetery, the Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón, which has been designated a National Monument and contains the tombs of several important persons as well as numerous and beautiful marble statues. Returning to the Malecón, it is impossible to miss the supervised building of what was the Sección de Intereses de los Estados Unidos for decades; since 2015, with the reopening of diplomatic relations between Cuba and the United States, the building has housed the United States Embassy. Right across from the American Embassy is a structure known as the José Mart Anti-Imperialist Tribune, which is frequently used for protests and political gatherings.
Havana surroundings
The Cuban capital’s suburbs stretch for kilometers in all directions; in general, these are areas characterized above all by large, popular buildings, often a little dilapidated, but they are also those where one can get to know the real Cuba, with its difficulties and big heart. In a seaside city like Havana, it is difficult to believe that there are no beaches; in fact, to find some suitable for relaxation, travel 20 kilometers east on the Va Blanca, up to the Playas del Este: Santa Maria del Mar, Playa Boca Ciega, and Guanabo are the most popular with habaneros, particularly on weekends. After a few days in the capital, large beaches of golden sand, lapped by the turquoise blue of the Atlantic Ocean and shaded by palm trees, completely transform the viewpoint of the holiday.
Events and transportation
The Estadio Latinoamericano is located near Calle Zequiera, one and a half kilometers east of Plaza de la Revolución. Baseball, Cuba’s most popular and practiced sport, is played here. If you have the chance, try to attend a game of the Industriales, the main team from Havana and historically the strongest team in the Cuban league. The game may not be particularly interesting in and of itself, but the show, music, and happiness provided by the spectators in the stands more than compensate for any confusion about not understanding anything about the game.
Since 1979, the Havana International Jazz Festival has been held in the city, usually in December. If you happen to be in the area at the time, know that some of the top Cuban and international performers of this genre will be performing. Carnival (Carnaval de La Habana) takes place in August and includes music and parades on the Malecón; in this case, it is also a must-see event for those interested in Cuban rhythm and folklore. Another important event in the capital’s cultural calendar is the Festival Internacional del Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano. The first edition was held in 1999, and its popularity has grown over the years; screenings of the festival are currently presented at the city’s cinemas in December. Those interested in Cuban politics will find an opportunity to attend an event very important to the Cuban government and with a global reach in the May 1 workers’ demonstration: a rally attended by hundreds of thousands of people in the Plaza de la Revolución.
To reach Havana, the Aeropuerto Internacional José Mart is the main airport, located about 25 kilometers southwest of the city center. Once in Havana, it is best to take a taxi as direct public transportation to the city center is nearly non-existent. The major train station is located on Avenida de Belgica, and tickets must be purchased in advance. Buses are also available, with the main stations being Viazul and Astro bus stations. In terms of accommodation, there are numerous options in Havana, including hotels and casas particulares, which are private properties used for tourist reception.
Havana Heat: Cuban Grub and Vibes
Havana’s food scene is an explosion of flavor, a kickass mix of Spanish, African, and other Caribbean cooking styles. You’ve gotta bite into Ropa Vieja, a badass beef stew that’s pulled to shreds, Moros y Cristianos, a black-and-white spectacle of beans and rice, and Tostones – think plantains in a deep-fried rebellion. You’ll find these culinary gems at kickin’ joints like Paladar Los Mercaderes and La Guarida. Thirsty? Chug a mojito at Bodeguita del Medio – Hemingway’s old haunt. And for the sugar fiends, Coppelia in the Vedado district has got an ice cream flavor jam for everyone, served up in a killer outdoor arena.
Havana Nights: Wild Rhythms and Smooth Grooves
Havana’s nightlife scene is a wild ride, as diverse and pulsating as its past. Casual bars, adrenaline-fueled clubs, or live gig places, this city’s got the right noise for everyone. For a full-throttle ride, hit up the world-renowned Tropicana Club, famous for its over-the-top cabaret shows. If you’re a salsa fanatic, Casa de la Musica will have you twirling and stepping until dawn. And for those who fancy a chill-out session, the rooftop bar at Hotel Ambos Mundos serves up an eye-full of the city skyline alongside a rocking cocktail menu.
Havana Hustle: The Hunt for Authentic Cuban Treasures
For the shoppers and souvenir hounds, Havana’s markets are chock full of one-of-a-kind finds. Make a beeline for Almacenes San José Artisans’ Market, the city’s biggest bazaar for arts and crafts, located in an old-school warehouse on the city port. Whether you’re in the market for handcrafted jewelry, leather trinkets, pieces of art, or musical instruments, they’ve got you covered. If Cuban cigars are your thing, the Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás not only provides a stellar selection, but also a peek behind the smoky curtain of cigar-making. And if you’re a rum enthusiast, the Havana Club Rum Museum is a hard-hitting must. Take a walk through the history of Cuban rum, check out how it’s brewed, and snag a bottle or two to take back home.
