Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2013 by Mamete Prevostini: An Alpine Symphony of Rock and Silk
The Valtellina Superiore DOCG Riserva 2013 from the Mamete Prevostini winery is a wine that succeeds in the mad attempt to lock up the mountains in the bottle.
As you well know, Valtellina is a wine produced with Nebbiolo, but among the dizzying terraces of Valtellina, at an incredible and rare altitude, Nebbiolo becomes an inextricable symphony of rock and silk.
The tannins are very delicate, thick, but not comparable to those of a Barolo, just to name one; however, it is the minerality, sapidity, and freshness that become the protagonists.
Even the aromas are sharper, less earthy, but more rocky and ethereal; even the color of this wine is splendid, a transparent, very delicate ruby.
If you want to discover the flavor of Valtellina, how it is produced, and what face Nebbiolo takes on in Valtellina, this is the wine to start with.
It is a very sharp, elegant, refined wine with subtle references, where every scent of Nebbiolo is framed by a crazy minerality.
As mentioned, the body, structure, and even the extract itself are totally different from its older brothers at the antipodes, but the beauty is precisely the diversity that Nebbiolo assumes in these vineyards planted in the Alps. Obviously, the temperature range helps to fix the aromas and develop the aromatic qualities of the vine.
The Bouquet of Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2013 by Mamete Prevostini
Pungent, very fine, subtle nose, dominated by an ethereal glacial fruit that ranges from wild strawberries to currants, passing through raspberry jellies and geranium, and then the notes of rocks, earth, almost seaweed, and mint. Overall, the elegance is fluid, with great expressiveness but also naturalness. Persistence and touches of final roasting
The taste
In the mouth, it is sapid; the fruit is a glacial sword of great austerity, but the balance is always good. Certainly do not expect a warm and round wine; indeed, it is quite uncompromising; it leaves no room for weakness, softness, or jam, but it is a distillate of pure sapidity.
The tannins are tasty yet delicate, helping to support the delicate fruit with a nice push but fading into the background. Even on an aromatic level, it is always vertical and contemptuous; there are spicy touches, but the flavors are the ethereal ones of Nebbiolo.
In summary, it is a splendid wine, hard and pure, a great mountain wine, which is perhaps slightly exuberant in terms of freshness at the moment but is an excellent passport for good ageing. It will be perfect, ethereal, and fascinating in two years; it will be nice to taste it again in five or six years.
Price
30 euros, to buy with your eyes closed.
Pairings
It is at its best with red meats, grilled meats, stews, Texan brisket, game, and foods rich in sweet spices. Try it with pizza margherita, and paella. Excellent with Pecorino di Moliterno and Castelmagno and aged cheeses; to try with black truffle risotto, passatelli with Parmigiano fondue and truffle, bucatini all’amatriciana, roast beef, hamburger.
