Ca’ del Baio Asili: A Great Vineyard, a Difficult Vintage and a Wine Worth Arguing About
Some Barbarescos impress with sheer concentration, while others reveal their greatness through fragrance, texture and an almost effortless sense of proportion. Ca’ del Baio Asili 2013 belongs closer to the second category, although there is a distinctly stubborn streak beneath its elegance.
Produced from one of Barbaresco’s most celebrated vineyards, this Nebbiolo combines the freshness of a classic Piedmontese vintage with the refined, persistent tannins that have made Asili famous. Thirteen years after the harvest, it has developed attractive savoury complexity, but the structure remains more assertive than its delicate colour suggests.
The 2013 is particularly interesting because it comes from a late-ripening season that rewarded patience in the vineyard. This is not an opulent, immediately seductive Barbaresco. It is a serious, mature red with considerable finesse, a little austerity and an excellent pedigree.
The Basics
- Producer: Ca’ del Baio – Grasso family
- Wine: Barbaresco Asili
- Vintage: 2013
- Classification: Barbaresco DOCG
- Cru: Asili MGA
- Region: Piedmont, Italy
- Production area: Barbaresco, province of Cuneo
- Grape: 100% Nebbiolo
- Vineyard exposure: Southwest
- Soils: Bluish calcareous-clay marl
- Vineyard plantings: Between 1957 and 1999
- Harvest: Autumn, following the relatively late ripening of 2013
- Fermentation: Temperature-controlled stainless steel
- Maceration: 5–30 days, according to the producer’s technical documentation for this style
- Ageing: 24 months in oak, partly large casks and partly smaller French barrels, followed by 6 months in bottle
- Alcohol: 15% ABV, as indicated on the bottle
- Bottle size: 750 ml
- Serving temperature: 16–18°C
Ca’ del Baio: A Family Estate with Some Exceptional Neighbours
Ca’ del Baio has been part of the agricultural history of the Langhe since the nineteenth century. Its roots lie in Treiso, where the Grasso family gradually developed a collection of vineyards that would eventually include some of the most respected sites in the Barbaresco denomination.
The modern estate owes much to Ernesto Grasso, who recognised the importance of individual vineyard identity at a time when many producers still preferred to blend grapes from different sites.
His son Giulio continued developing the winery alongside his wife Luciana, while their daughters Paola, Valentina and Federica became increasingly involved in the family business.
The estate’s vineyards extend across Treiso and Barbaresco, encompassing sites with very different personalities. Vallegrande, Pora and Asili are among the most important, each providing a particular interpretation of Nebbiolo.
What makes Ca’ del Baio interesting is its refusal to impose an identical cellar regime on every vineyard.
The family’s wines generally respect traditional Piedmontese methods, although the use of different barrel sizes and maturation periods reflects an understanding that Nebbiolo does not behave identically in every location.
Asili is especially important to the estate’s history. The family’s connection with this celebrated vineyard goes back several generations, and the grapes from its oldest vines have become the foundation of one of the winery’s most elegant Barbarescos.
The 2013 reviewed here is the regular Asili, not the more ambitious Asili Riserva. The distinction matters because the two wines have different production methods and ageing regimes.
Asili: Why This Small Vineyard Has Such a Large Reputation
Asili is one of the historic crus of Barbaresco, occupying an exceptionally favourable position in the hills surrounding the village.
Its reputation rests on an unusual combination of aromatic finesse, structural precision and long-term ageing potential.
The vineyards enjoy predominantly southern and southwestern exposures, allowing Nebbiolo to complete its extended ripening cycle while benefiting from the moderating influence of the local hills.
The soils consist largely of calcareous marl, with clay-rich formations that developed from ancient marine sediments.
Ca’ del Baio’s parcel occupies a southwest-facing section of the vineyard, where the family cultivates vines planted between 1957 and 1999.
These differences in vine age contribute to the complexity of the raw material, although old vines alone do not guarantee exceptional wine. The quality of the site, its management and the timing of harvest remain decisive.
Asili is particularly interesting because its wines often possess considerable tannic structure without the aggressive muscularity associated with some other Nebbiolo vineyards.
The finest examples combine delicate floral aromatics with a persistent, finely textured palate. Their power comes from precision and length rather than weight.
That makes Asili one of the most compelling expressions of the variety.
Its reputation has attracted producers such as Bruno Giacosa and Produttori del Barbaresco, whose interpretations have contributed substantially to the vineyard’s international prestige.
Ca’ del Baio offers a more accessible perspective on the same territory, maintaining a strong connection with traditional winemaking while avoiding the extraordinary prices associated with the most sought-after labels.
The 2013 Vintage: A Return to Classical Barbaresco
The 2013 growing season in Piedmont was considerably different from the warm, generous conditions of 2015.
A cool, wet spring delayed vegetative development, while unsettled weather created additional challenges for vineyard management. Summer conditions gradually improved, and a favourable late season allowed Nebbiolo to complete its ripening.
Harvest arrived unusually late, with many producers picking well into October.
The resulting vintage has become particularly interesting for admirers of traditional Barbaresco.
Rather than producing exceptionally ripe, soft reds, 2013 frequently delivered wines with lively acidity, firm tannins and remarkable aromatic definition.
Those characteristics are especially appropriate for Asili.
The vineyard’s natural finesse benefits from a growing season that allows Nebbiolo to develop complexity without excessive sugar accumulation or loss of freshness.
Nevertheless, the vintage was not uniformly successful. Some vineyards struggled to achieve complete tannin maturity, and certain wines retained a slightly green, angular character.
Ca’ del Baio’s Asili reflects both sides of the season.
The fruit possesses attractive concentration, but the tannins retain a firm, slightly resistant texture. The acidity gives the wine considerable energy, while its aromatic development remains relatively restrained rather than immediately expansive.
Thirteen years after the harvest, the 2013 has entered an appealing mature phase. Its youthful fruit has acquired more savoury complexity, although the original structural tension remains an essential part of its personality.
Nebbiolo: The Grape Behind Barbaresco’s Extraordinary Finesse
Nebbiolo is one of Italy’s most distinctive red varieties, combining relatively transparent colour with substantial tannins, pronounced acidity and an exceptional capacity for aromatic development.
Its demanding growing cycle makes vineyard exposure particularly important. The grape buds relatively early but ripens late, requiring sufficient autumn warmth to achieve complete phenolic maturity.
In the Langhe, the relationship between calcareous soils, hillside exposure and local climate has created some of the world’s most celebrated Nebbiolo vineyards.
Yet the variety does not produce a single predictable style.
A comparison with Barolo is instructive. Both denominations rely exclusively on Nebbiolo, but their different landscapes, vineyard sites and production traditions can produce striking variations in structure and aromatic development.
Barbaresco is often described as the more elegant, approachable sibling, although that generalisation becomes less convincing when comparing individual crus.
Asili can produce wines with considerable longevity and firm tannins, while certain Barolo vineyards deliver remarkably fragrant, delicate expressions.
The distinction is ultimately one of terroir rather than an absolute division between power and finesse.
Ca’ del Baio Asili 2013 demonstrates this complexity particularly well.
It has the floral character associated with refined Barbaresco, but its tannins remain persistent and the finish retains a slightly austere quality.
The result is a wine that rewards attention, rather than one designed exclusively for immediate charm.
How Ca’ del Baio Asili Is Made
The regular Asili follows a relatively traditional production philosophy, with an emphasis on controlled extraction and gradual maturation.
The Nebbiolo grapes are destemmed and fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.
The producer’s technical documentation describes maceration periods ranging from five to thirty days, allowing the duration of skin contact to be adapted to the characteristics of the harvest.
This flexibility is important in a demanding vintage such as 2013, when tannin maturity was not uniform across the region.
Prolonged extraction can contribute structure and complexity, but it can also exaggerate astringency when the fruit has not reached complete physiological maturity.
After fermentation, the wine matures for twenty-four months in oak, using a combination of larger barrels and smaller French vessels.
The two types of container influence maturation differently.
Larger casks generally contribute relatively little overt oak flavour, allowing Nebbiolo’s natural character to remain prominent. Smaller barrels encourage a different pattern of oxygen exchange and can contribute additional textural development.
The wine then receives approximately six months of bottle maturation before release.
This approach gives Asili sufficient time to develop without imposing the considerably longer barrel ageing associated with the estate’s Riserva.
In the 2013, the wood is subordinate to the wine’s natural structure. The fruit, acidity and tannins remain clearly recognisable, while bottle development has brought greater harmony to the overall impression.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Transparent garnet red with brick-orange reflections around the rim.
Bouquet: Dried rose petals, red cherry and raspberry introduce an elegant, slightly restrained nose. Tobacco, liquorice and a delicate earthy note add maturity, followed by subtle suggestions of orange peel and black pepper. The aromatic profile has developed attractive complexity, although it remains more precise than expansive.
Palate: Medium-bodied, taut and savoury, with lively acidity and fine but persistent tannins. The fruit retains a recognisable red-berry character, while the middle palate reveals a more mature, slightly earthy dimension. There is good concentration without excessive weight, although the tannins introduce a touch of dryness towards the finish.
Finish: Long, dry and firmly structured, with lingering spice, delicate balsamic nuances and a persistent tannic grip. Freshness remains the wine’s defining quality.
Our Verdict
Ca’ del Baio Barbaresco Asili 2013 is a serious, beautifully structured Nebbiolo whose greatest attraction is its combination of maturity and precision.
The wine has the aromatic elegance expected from Asili, supported by firm acidity and a substantial tannic backbone. Thirteen years of development have added complexity, but they have not eliminated its slightly austere personality.
The bouquet is particularly appealing, with delicate floral character and savoury nuances that reveal the influence of bottle ageing.
The palate is less immediately seductive.
The tannins retain a persistent, occasionally drying grip, while the middle palate lacks some of the generous depth found in the finest examples of this celebrated vineyard.
That slight angularity is the principal limitation of the 2013.
The vintage produced excellent wines throughout Barbaresco, but it also demanded considerable precision in vineyard management and extraction. In this bottle, the structure remains more assertive than the fruit.
Nevertheless, the wine has many of the qualities that make classical Nebbiolo so compelling: freshness, aromatic definition, longevity and a clear sense of vineyard identity.
A comparison with Ca’ del Baio Vallegrande helps clarify its personality. Vallegrande generally offers a more muscular, earthy expression of Nebbiolo, while Asili places greater emphasis on fragrance and refined structure.
The difference becomes particularly attractive with age, when the original fruit gives way to increasingly complex secondary and tertiary nuances.
The 2013 is drinking well now. Its tannins and acidity provide sufficient structure for further cellaring, although there is little reason to postpone opening a bottle in pursuit of dramatic additional complexity.
Serve at 17°C in a generous Burgundy or Nebbiolo glass. A short, gentle decant may help separate any sediment, but prolonged aeration risks diminishing its more delicate mature aromas.
For a broader perspective on the vineyards surrounding Barbaresco, our guide to the Langhe explores the relationship between Nebbiolo, the landscape and the region’s extraordinary winemaking traditions.
Ca’ del Baio Asili 2013 is a very good Barbaresco, but not quite an exceptional one. Its aromatic finesse, freshness and mature complexity are convincing, while the slightly angular tannins prevent the palate from achieving complete harmony. It is a rewarding wine for admirers of traditional Nebbiolo, especially those who appreciate elegance without demanding a perfectly silky texture.
Price
€49.90.
Food Pairings
Paella, vitello tonnato, chicken curry, pulled pork, empanadas, hamburgers.
