Domaine de la Madone Le Perréon Bio 2021: A Beaujolais with Dark Fruit, Silky Tannins and a Serious Temperament
The Beaujolais-Villages Le Perréon Bio 2021 from Domaine de la Madone is a deliciously expressive Gamay, with dark cherries, wild berries, peony and a lively peppery edge. There’s plenty of fruit, but the real pleasure comes from its texture: silky tannins, crisp acidity and a savoury finish that gives this modestly priced Beaujolais unexpected authority.
The 2021 vintage was difficult throughout Beaujolais, with a cool growing season and considerable pressure from rain and disease. Yet the Bérerd family has produced a remarkably satisfying red, combining the brightness of the vintage with the concentration of old vines grown on the steep granite slopes of Le Perréon.
It has the generosity of a good village wine, with a little more backbone than the appellation’s reputation might suggest.
The Basics
- Producer: Domaine de la Madone – Famille Bérerd
- Wine: Le Perréon Bio
- Vintage: 2021
- Appellation: Beaujolais-Villages AOC
- Region: Beaujolais, France
- Village: Le Perréon, Rhône
- Grape: 100% Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc
- Viticulture: Organic
- Vine age: 55 years
- Altitude: Up to 450 metres
- Soils: Decomposed granite
- Exposure: Predominantly south-facing slopes
- Harvest: Manual, with vineyard and cellar selection
- Yield: 32 hl/ha
- Vinification: Whole-berry fermentation, 15 days of maceration
- Ageing: Stainless steel, with concrete also reported in commercial specifications
- Alcohol: 13% ABV
- Bottle size: 750 ml
- Serving temperature: 15–16°C
The Producer and the Terroir
Domaine de la Madone belongs to the Bérerd family, whose history in Le Perréon stretches back more than five centuries. The estate occupies some of the most impressive hillsides in southern Beaujolais, where old Gamay vines cling to steep slopes overlooking the surrounding valleys.
Le Perréon lies west of Villefranche-sur-Saône, within the Beaujolais-Villages appellation. Its vineyards are planted predominantly on decomposed granite, a poor, freely draining soil that encourages deep root development and limits excessive vine vigour.
The slopes rise to 450 metres, providing cooler conditions than those found on the lower hillsides. Some of the estate’s vines are considerably older than the 55-year average reported for this cuvée, and their naturally modest yields contribute to the wine’s concentration.
The vineyards are cultivated organically, without synthetic herbicides or pesticides. In 2021, a year marked by challenging weather and uneven ripening, careful vineyard work and grape selection were particularly important.
Although Le Perréon does not belong to the ten official Beaujolais crus, its best wines can rival their depth and ageing potential. The comparison with neighbouring Brouilly is particularly revealing: both areas produce generous Gamay, but the steep granite slopes of Le Perréon can give the wines a distinctive concentration and firm, savoury finish.
How It’s Made
Le Perréon Bio 2021 comes from organically cultivated Gamay vines, harvested by hand and carefully sorted before fermentation.
The grapes undergo a 15-day maceration, with whole berries helping preserve aromatic freshness while allowing sufficient extraction to give the wine its substantial colour and tannic structure.
This is a more serious approach than the brief macerations associated with the lightest Beaujolais Nouveau wines. It produces a red with greater depth and texture, without sacrificing Gamay’s natural fragrance.
The wine is matured in neutral tanks rather than relying on new oak. The emphasis remains on fruit, the character of the old vines and the firm acidity of the 2021 vintage.
For anyone familiar with the lighter expressions of Gamay from Savoie, Le Perréon offers an interesting contrast: darker fruit, greater concentration and more substantial tannins.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Deep ruby with vivid purple reflections, darker and more concentrated than many young Beaujolais reds.
Bouquet: Black cherry, raspberry and blackberry, followed by peony, crushed violets and black pepper. The fruit is ripe and fragrant, with an earthy undertone and a faint suggestion of wild herbs. There’s considerable aromatic depth, but the bouquet remains fresh rather than jammy.
Palate: Juicy and supple on entry, with ripe dark cherries and blackberries supported by precise, silky tannins. The acidity is bright and persistent, giving the wine a taut, energetic character despite its generous fruit. A savoury note develops through the middle of the palate, followed by a delicate peppery bitterness that provides welcome definition.
Finish: Persistent, dry and gently spicy, with lingering black cherry, peony and a faint earthy note. The tannins leave a fine, velvety grip.
Our Verdict
Le Perréon Bio 2021 is a superbly satisfying Gamay, with the concentration of old vines and the sharp freshness of a difficult vintage. Its dark fruit, floral perfume and beautifully judged tannins make it considerably more interesting than an ordinary Beaujolais-Villages.
Compared with the warmer, more generous 2023 release, the 2021 has a leaner, firmer personality. It sacrifices a little opulence but gains a more incisive, savoury character. An excellent bottle, particularly for those who appreciate the more serious side of Beaujolais.
Price
€16.00.
Food Pairings
Paella, vitello tonnato, chicken curry, pulled pork, empanadas, hamburgers.
