Domaine de la Madone Le Perréon 2023: A Brilliant Little Beaujolais with the Soul of a Cru
The Beaujolais-Villages Le Perréon 2023 from Domaine de la Madone is a deliciously juicy Gamay, bursting with black cherry, raspberry, violet and a dark, spicy undertone. The fruit is generous, the tannins silky, and there’s enough acidity to keep the wine wonderfully lively. At €13.50, this is the sort of bottle that reminds you how much pleasure good Beaujolais can deliver without asking for a ridiculous investment.
The grapes come from steep, granite-covered hillsides near the village of Le Perréon, where the Bérerd family cultivates old vines at elevations reaching 450 metres. The 2023 vintage has produced a particularly expressive red, combining ripe fruit with a firmer, more substantial structure than you might expect from an everyday Beaujolais.
The Basics
- Producer: Domaine de la Madone
- Wine: Le Perréon
- Vintage: 2023
- Appellation: Beaujolais-Villages AOC
- Region: Beaujolais, France
- Village: Le Perréon, Rhône
- Grape: 100% Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc
- Vineyards: Steep hillside parcels, with old vines
- Altitude: 450 metres
- Soils: Weathered pink granite
- Viticulture: Organic farming
- Harvest: Hand-picked
- Fermentation: Indigenous yeasts, in tanks
- Ageing: Stainless steel and concrete tanks
- Alcohol: 13% ABV
- Bottle size: 750 ml
- Serving temperature: 14–16°C
The Producer and the Terroir
Domaine de la Madone belongs to the Bérerd family, whose roots in Le Perréon stretch back several centuries. Today, brothers Olivier, Bruno and Frédéric work vineyards scattered across some of the steepest slopes in the southern Beaujolais.
These are demanding vineyards. The hillsides can reach gradients of 30–40 degrees, making mechanisation impractical in many parcels. Some vines are more than 75 years old, and the oldest plots produce small quantities of particularly concentrated fruit.
The soils consist largely of decomposed pink granite, similar to those found in parts of nearby Brouilly and Fleurie. Their coarse, well-drained structure restricts excessive vigour, while the elevation moderates summer temperatures.
Le Perréon belongs to the Beaujolais-Villages appellation rather than the ten officially recognised crus, but the distinction is less obvious in the glass than it appears on a map. The best vineyards here can produce Gamay with remarkable depth, supple tannins and genuine ageing potential.
The Bérerd family has built its reputation on precisely this combination of fruit purity and structure, without resorting to elaborate cellar techniques.
How It’s Made
Le Perréon 2023 is produced entirely from Gamay grown on the estate’s granitic slopes. The grapes are harvested by hand and fermented using indigenous yeasts.
Vinification takes place in tanks, followed by maturation in stainless steel and concrete. There is no need for an assertive oak treatment: the old vines already provide concentration, while the restrained cellar work preserves the freshness and aromatic identity of the fruit.
It’s a particularly revealing approach to Beaujolais winemaking. Rather than relying on the exuberant, sometimes confectionery aromas associated with young carbonic-maceration wines, Le Perréon develops a more substantial expression of Gamay, with genuine tannic definition and a distinctly savoury finish.
The 2023 vintage offers ripe fruit without sacrificing the characteristic acidity that gives good Beaujolais its irresistible energy.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Bright ruby red with violet reflections. Luminous, with good depth and clarity.
Bouquet: Black cherry, wild raspberry and violet emerge immediately, followed by crushed blackberry, liquorice and a delicate peppery note. The fruit is ripe and expressive, with a floral freshness that prevents the bouquet from becoming excessively sweet. A subtle earthy character adds another dimension.
Palate: Juicy, supple and remarkably satisfying. The opening is generous, packed with ripe red and black fruit, but the wine quickly reveals a firmer structure. The tannins are fine and velvety, the acidity energetic, and the texture has a pleasing density without becoming heavy. Cherry and blackberry give way to liquorice and a delicate spicy bitterness that keeps the finish dry and appetising.
Finish: Long for a Beaujolais-Villages, with lingering dark cherry, violet and liquorice. A gentle tannic grip gives the wine a little extra authority.
Our Verdict
Le Perréon 2023 is an excellent Gamay, rich in fruit yet remarkably fresh, with silky tannins and considerably more substance than its modest price suggests.
Compared with many lighter Beaujolais-Villages, it has greater depth and a more serious structure. It even approaches the generosity of some Fleurie bottlings, although its character is a little darker and more robust. A splendid everyday red that deserves to be taken seriously.
Price
€13.50.
Food Pairings
Paella, vitello tonnato, chicken curry, pulled pork, empanadas, hamburgers.
