The Italian Spirit: How Grappa is Becoming the New Trend

From small producers to worldwide recognition, grappa is a must-try for any spirit lover.

Let’s start with the most important question: what is grappa?

Brandy that comes from the distillation of pomace, i.e. peels and grape seeds.

After the grape has been squeezed, it ferments and remains in contact with the must, but after maceration, the must continues its evolution, while the pomace is discarded.

But what matters in the production of grappa are the skins, which must be fresh and still soaked in wine, which is why it is not so easy to make a good grappa. Sugar is no longer needed, only alcohol, so if we have white pomace, which usually does not macerate in the must, they will first have to ferment to transform the sugar into alcohol.

Another big problem is impurities, the more stems and grape seeds there are, the worse the quality of the grappa will be: producing this distillate is not easy at all. It is a continuous search for the best peels and only those.

How is grappa made?

Maybe many of you had enterprising grandparents who produced it themselves in the cellar and who knows what deadly concoctions our cheerful grandparents bottled. Because grappa was once a food, in the countryside it helped you stay awake and work in the winter and therefore it has always been made and perhaps sold as smugglers. But if one doesn’t know how to do it perfectly, it becomes dangerous, because the heads, the first distilled liquid, contain methanol, toxic and in the 70s many people gave up on it.

Fortunately, however, today’s grappa is a safe product, protected by regulations, and the product of the great Italian wine diversity. There are grappas from Moscato, Brunello, Barolo, and great wines such as Sassicaia; it is no coincidence that small grappa producers go around the world to recover the best pomace and are ready to pay dearly for them, when many throw them away . Of course, we’re not talking about Tavernello pomace, if such a thing exists… In short, even with Grappa we are witnessing a golden age in Italy.

Because grappa is only an Italian product, the other distillates, even if technically they are, cannot be called grappa, like the famous French Marc, which is similar, but, thank goodness, the name grappa is protected. Even the various grape and fruit distillates are no longer called grappa, but distillates of pears, apricots and so on

Distilling pomace is an art

Now let’s see how the grappa distillation process takes place. Distillation can be discontinuous or continuous, depending on the plant.

The discontinuous is the traditional one and takes place through the classic stork-beak copper alembic. The boiler is filled with pomace and water, and they are heated in a bain-marie to have a constant and continuous heat and to ensure that the vapors are delicately impregnated.

These vapors, rich in esters and aldenes, rise up the neck and end up in the cooler and condense: and the magic is done. The boiler is emptied and then it starts all over again.

Said this way, it seems simple, but in reality, as with all distillations, it is the master distiller who shapes the distillate, cutting off the heads, then holding the heart and eliminating the tails again.

How does? Each substance present in the pomace evaporates at a different temperature, so it is crucial that the master distiller eliminate the harmful parts, but in doing so he also eliminates perfumes, which are not so distinct from each other.

In any case, the more it is removed and the more it is distilled, the purer the alcohol becomes, though it loses its perfumes and aromatic parts. It is no coincidence that many master distillers are true gurus, mythical figures, masters with very fine palates and noses, endowed with unique sensibilities.

If, on the other hand, the distillation is continuous, think of a still like the Coffey, with columns where the vapors rise and are separated by means of plates, and before the cycle ends, the boiler is emptied and filled again. It’s a faster and more efficient method, but many still prefer the old batch.

After the distillation of the pomace, we have an undrinkable distillate with a toxic alcohol content, so it must be diluted with water to bring it to a drinkable content, and then it can be bottled or the grappa can be refined in wood. Or even flavor it with fruit, spices and other ingredients.

Classification of grappa

Grappa Giovane (young)

At its simplest, it is bottled after being distilled; at its most, it is aged in steel. It has a direct, fruity taste and aroma, without spices or many frills.

Grappa invecchiata (aged)

This is the name given to the distillate that is aged in wood for 12 months. The wood obviously emits color, aromas, tannins, and woody flavors, for which spices appear; the taste is more velvety and soft as a result of the oxygenation and evaporation of the alcohol.

Grappa Riserva or Stravecchia

A distillate of pomace that is aged for at least 18 months in wooden barrels. Obviously, the spiciness is greater, but so is the structure of the grappa: to be refined for so long, the marc distillate that is placed in the barrel must be strong, sumptuous, have substance, and be thick. For this reason, the taste, the aromas, and the intensity—and obviously also the cost—are higher.

Grappa Barricata

It refers to a distillate of pomace that ages for 12 months in wood, of which at least 6 are in French oak barrels, the classic Cabernet Sauvignon barrels with a capacity of 225 liters. In this case, as maturation, oxidation, and concentration increase immodestly, the distillate is impregnated with tannins, colors, spices, vanilla, tobacco, butter, and cream.

Using the barrique to model is an art; sensitivity is needed to dose the roasting well, and there are a thousand aspects to evaluate. For this, you’ll find both commonplace products intoxicated by spices and precious nectars chiseled with skill.

Grappa aromatica

They come from the distillation of pomace from aromatic vines such as Malvasia, Moscato, and Gewurztraminer that usually do not age.

They are already explosive, full of perfumes, and very subtle and fresh; wood is not needed; on the contrary, it would mortify their aromatic richness with heavy tones of wood and spices.

Since we’re on the subject, let’s talk about single-variety grappas, which are made with pomace from the same vine and are often excellent quality products that seek to enhance the qualities of a specific vine-wine-winemaker.

It is not said that they are better than the others, but at least they make the effort to create a product that can translate a given terroir into alcohol. And broadening the discussion today, there are many distillers who go further and distill the pomace of a given wine, such as Barolo, Sassicaia, or the legendary Capovilla’s grappa, distilled from the pomace of Ribolla Gialla by Gravner.

Let’s finish with the flavored grappas, that is, those distillates that have been flavored with spices, roots, fruit, flowers, or panettone, whatever you like; you can also make them at home.

They range from Trentino green apple grappa to the gentian grappa typical of Abruzzo.

Cask Finishing

Since we are dragging it out, let’s talk about refinement. Grappa usually ages in cherry, ash, and oak barrels. However, also for grappas (fortunately), the second aging in barrels other than those in which the distillate is matured is taking hold, so like whiskeys, they become double-matured. The Sibona distillery grappa aged in Porto barrels is not bad.

Often they are barrels used for Madeira, Marsala, Sherry, or Port, or great red wines, excellent for rounding off and giving the distillate further aromas and charm. Once again, we take the Sassicaia Poli grappa as an example, not because they paid us or we love it, but only because it is the only one who has made this experiment.

How and at what temperature to serve grappa

We’re talking about a meditation distillate, so it shouldn’t be mortified at a low serving temperature, vodka-style. Serve it at 16 to 18 degrees, otherwise you risk dulling the flavors of the distillate.

What cocktails to make with grappa

There is no shortage of cocktails: it is aromatic, perfumed, and has nothing to envy other great distillates. To try: the Ciuco cocktail, the Genzianito, the Booby cocktail, the Geppetto cocktail, the Grappa Sour, and the Grappalicious.