Savor the Salt: Albarola’s Crisp Charm and Unmistakable Ligurian Soul
Albarola is a native grape variety of Liguria, grown mainly along the coast and in some areas of northern Tuscany
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Region: Liguria
The Liguria region is home to a variety of grape varieties, including Vermentino, Pigato, and Ormeasco, which are used to produce some of Italy’s finest white wines. These wines are known for their bright, fruity flavors and zappy acidity, making them the perfect pairing for the region’s seafood-heavy cuisine.
One of the peculiarities of this region is its wild nature dominated by a dualism always poised between mountain and sea. Viticulture is heroic, it is cultivated in impervious conditions, to tear up every strip of land and plant vineyards on it, which often overhang the sea.
It is often thought that the sea is the protagonist of Ligurian wines, and indeed it is, but there is also a lot of rock combined with woods and earth in these wines.
Thermal excursion, mountains, limestone-based soils and the balsamic touch of the sea create unique and unrepeatable pedoclimatic conditions. And the fact that the wines are handcrafted and very scarce in terms of number of bottles makes Ligurian wines precious and unique. You will feel a struggle inside these nectars.
They are stormy wines, full, but sharp and sardonic, just like the language and spirit of the Ligurian people. But above all they are linked to the Ligurian terroir and you will be able to discover this link, you will taste it and you will learn to love and recognize these wines, thanks to their unique characteristics.
That taste of olives and thyme from Rossese, the resin and pine nuts from Pigato, the rebellious charge from Ormeasco. Your tongue will travel on a map of flavors which, once explored, will never let you go back.
Vermentino is the King
Vermentino is the most widely planted grape variety in Liguria, and it is used to produce some of the region’s finest white wines. It is a grape that thrives in the Mediterranean climate of Liguria, producing wines with flavors of citrus, pear, and green apple. Vermentino is often blended with other grape varieties, such as Pigato, Albarola or Chardonnay to create complex and well-balanced wines.
Pigato is another grape variety that is grown in Liguria, particularly in the western part of the region. It is a white grape that is known for its full-bodied, aromatic wines with flavors of peach, apricot, and citrus. Pigato is often blended with Vermentino to create wines that are both fresh and full-bodied.
Ormeasco is a grape variety that is grown in the eastern part of Liguria, near the border with Piedmont. It is used to produce full-bodied red wines with flavors of dark fruit, spice, and earth. Ormeasco wines are typically aged in oak barrels, which helps to give them their rich, complex flavors.
In terms of food, Liguria is known for its focaccia, a type of flatbread that is often topped with herbs and olives. The region is also home to a variety of seafood dishes, including the famous pesto alla genovese, a sauce made from basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan cheese. Other popular dishes include farinata, a type of savory pancake made with chickpea flour, and the indulgent buridda, a stew made with fish and vegetables.
The Liguria region is home to a number of protected designations of origin (DOP) products, including the Liguria Pesto DOP, which is made with basil grown in the region. Other DOP products from Liguria include the Riviera Ligure di Ponente Extra Virgin Olive Oil DOP, the Val di Vara Chestnuts DOP, and the Genoa Taggiasca Olives DOP.
In terms of wine, there are a few lesser-known varieties from Liguria that are worth exploring. One of these is Cinque Terre, a white wine made from the Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grape varieties. Cinque Terre wines are produced in the Cinque Terre region of Liguria, which is known for its steep, terraced vineyards and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean.
Another lesser-known wine from Liguria is Sciacchetrà, a sweet, amber-colored wine made from the Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grape varieties. Sciacchetrà wines are produced in the Cinque Terre region of Liguria and are known for their rich, honeyed flavors and long finish. If you are fond of sweet wines, you will find in these rare bottles treasures of unprecedented elegance. The etymology is evocative: the name of the wine derives from the dialect word sciacàa, which means to crush.
Rossese: the hidden treasure of Italian enology
One of the most interesting and unique wines of the region is Rossese, a red wine made from the Rossese grape variety.
Rossese is a grape variety that is native to Liguria and is grown primarily in the western part of the region. It is a thin-skinned grape that is prone to sunburn and rot, which makes it difficult to cultivate. However, when grown in the right conditions, it produces wines with complex and intriguing flavors.
Rossese wines are known for their ruby red color and aromas of red fruit, herbs, and spices. On the palate, they have flavors of cherry, raspberry, and a hint of bitterness that comes from the grape’s skin. They are medium- to full-bodied wines with moderate acidity and a long finish.
Rossese wines are often paired with grilled meats, such as steak or lamb, as well as with rich, savory dishes like braised beef or wild mushroom risotto. They are also well-suited to bold, flavorful cheeses, such as pecorino or gorgonzola.
In terms of production, Rossese wines are made in a variety of styles, ranging from light and fruity to full-bodied and tannic. Some examples of Rossese wines include the Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, the Rossese di San Biagio DOC, and the Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore DOCG. These wines are produced in different parts of the Liguria region and vary in terms of their style and characteristics.
Overall, Rossese is a wine that is well worth exploring for those who are interested in discovering the unique and varied flavors of the Liguria region. Its complex and intriguing flavors make it a wine that is both food-friendly and interesting to drink on its own.
The History of Ligurian Wine
The history of viticulture in Liguria dates back to ancient times, when its strategic location and natural harbor made it a hub for cultural and commercial trade.
The first references to viticulture in the region can be traced back to contacts with the Greeks and Romans, who introduced local populations to grape cultivation and improved production techniques.
The oldest written record of this period in Liguria is a bronze plate from 117 A.C. that mentions Val Polcevera wine being used as a form of payment in a border dispute. However, there are conflicting accounts from Strabo and Plinio the Elder regarding the quality of Ligurian wines, with Strabo stating they were bitter and produced in small quantities, while Plinio praised them in his “Naturalis Historia.”
Despite this, the Ligurians quickly embraced grapevines and olive trees, shaping their territory to accommodate these crops and creating terraces supported by dry stone walls. These crops became integral to the region’s economy and played a role in its history.
The ships of the maritime Republic of Genoa, including the famous Moscatello di Taggia wine, were known for their exports. Ligurian wines have also inspired writers and poets and have played a significant role in local culture and history. In recent decades, there has been a resurgence in Ligurian wine production, with the region now boasting a variety of wines and a growing number of wineries.
Despite its long history of wine production, Liguria faced several challenges in the 19th and 20th centuries. The decline of Genoa’s trade led many farmers to switch to other crops, and the region was heavily impacted by the phylloxera and blight plagues at the end of the 19th century.
In the latter half of the 20th century, there was a slow but steady countertrend in Ligurian wine production, but throughout the 1980s and 1990s, many young people left farming for the cities, leading to the reduction of vineyard area and production. In recent decades, however, there has been a resurgence in Ligurian wine production, with the region now boasting a variety of wines and a growing number of wineries.
Some of the most popular varieties in Liguria include Vermentino, Pigato, and Sciacchetrà, and the region is known for its white wines, although it also produces reds, such as Rossese di Dolceacqua. In addition to its wines, Liguria is also known for its delicious seafood dishes and olive oils, making it a must-visit destination for food and wine lovers.
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