Taste the Essence of Italy: Indulge in a Food and Wine Tour of Castelli Romani
Pliny the Elder called it “Latium Vetus.” It is the land where Alba Longa, the mythical city from which Romulus and Remus are said to have come, was built by Aeneas’s son. Emperors and Popes spent their vacations on the hills here because of the beautiful scenery and clean air.
It is the land to the southeast of Rome. It is a green lung at the edge of the city and is dotted with the rolling Colli Albani, which are all that is left of an important, now-extinct volcanic complex that must have been very busy up to 20,000 years ago.
Here, the Strada dei Vini dei Castelli Romani winds through beautiful archaeological sites, ancient patrician villas, castles, and towers scattered across the countryside, picturesque lakes, breathtaking landscapes, an excellent gastronomic offer, and a vast area of vineyards that seems to go on forever, just as it did in the past.
This is because the cultivation of vines in this area dates back to ancient times, so much so that today, thanks to its excellent wines, it is one of the most
Ariccia, Albano Laziale, Castel Gandolfo, Marino, Ciampino, Grottaferrata, Frascati, Monte Porzio Catone, Monte Compatri, Colonna, Zagarolo, Rocca Priora, Rocca di Papa, Genzano di Roma, Lanuvio, and Velletri are the 16 municipalities that are officially part of the association that brings together wineries, farms, wine shops, and all those activities that aim to promote
Our food and wine itinerary starts right here. With it, we’ll show you a bit of a land that is one of Italy’s best, with a lot of history and good things.
The wines of the Castelli Romani
The wines made in this area are light and crisp, and they taste good to almost everyone. There are seven DOC production areas in the area that the road goes through, and they all deserve to be talked about. As many as six of these, including Colli Albani DOC, Colli Lanuvini DOC, Frascati DOC, Marino DOC, Monte Compatri DOC, and Zagarolo DOC, only make white wine.
This white wine is made mostly from Malvasia grapes (60–70%), Trebbiano, and small amounts of native vines, and it comes in normal, superior, novello, sparkling, and spumante versions.
It tends to be a fresh wine that is very balanced and has hints of fruit. It goes well with appetizers, cured meats, fresh cheeses, and all of the rich first and second courses of white meat and fish in Castellana cuisine.
On the other hand, the Vino dei Castelli Romani Velletri DOC is also made in red versions, both normal and reserve, from Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Cesanese grapes, with Bombino Nero, Merlot, and Ciliegiolo as possible additions. It is definitely fuller-bodied and more intense than the white, but it still has that lightness that is typical of wines from this area.
Castelli Romani Rosso DOC goes well with both rich first courses and more intense second courses from the area.
Also worth mentioning are the two DOCGs, Cannellino di Frascati and Frascati Superiore, that are made in the area, which includes the towns of Frascati, Monte Porzio Catone, Grottaferrata, and Monte Compatri. Both are white wines made from Malvasia grapes, at least 70% of which are “blended” with Trebbiano to make them lighter and fresher, and native and local vines, which give them a delicate, fruity
The dishes of the Castelli area
Now we need to talk about a very “hot” topic that could temporarily overshadow the artistic, historical, and cultural riches we will see on our trip: Roman food, and especially food from the Castelli area. A triumph of tastes that are real, simple, and intense, with a strong connection to the agricultural and pastoral roots of the Castellan municipalities.
We start with bruschetta and panzanella as appetizers, and we quickly move on to the first courses, which include soups like cavalicchi soup and classic dishes like spaghetti all’amatriciana, rigatoni with pajata, or gnocchi with meat sauce, just to name a few.
In the second courses, you can choose from a wide variety of meats, such as lamb cooked in the oven, lamb chops, chicken alla diavola, oxtail alla caccinara, and the undisputed star of the show, porchetta from Ariccia.
A paragraph should also be devoted to vegetables, which are a specialty of the area. These include chicory with garlic and anchovies, artichokes or broccoli cooked in the Roman style, chicory cooked in a pan, artichokes cooked directly in the embers in the style of Matticella, and zucchini baked in the style of Velletrana.
Also important is the production of bakery goods, which includes the bread of Lariano, the Pane Casareccio di Genzano IGP, the doll of Frascati, the “biscottone” in the shape of a woman with three breasts, two for milk and one for wine, and donuts with wine, which can be found almost everywhere.
The list of typical DOP, IGP, and IGT products, fruits of this fertile volcanic land, is also endless; therefore, we focus only on the flavors and colors that we will encounter during our journey, namely the Porchetta di Ariccia IGP, the extra-virgin olive oil of the Castelli Romani, the Corallina Romana, the Coppiette di Maiale, the Roman artichokes IGP, IGP Latina Kiwis, DOP Roman Hazelnut, Velletri Black Cabbage, and Lariano Porcini Mushroom.
The events on our itinerary
- Velletri Easter Monday (January)
- Sant’Antonio Abate di Frascati (January)
- Scottone Festival of Rocca Priora (January)
- Feast of Santa Apollonia of Ariccia (February and July)
- Velletri Camellia Festival (March)
- Artichoke Festival at Matticella di Velletri (May)
- Infiorata of Genzano of Rome (June)
- International Festival of the Tuscolane Villas of Frascati (June)
- Zagarolo Bread Festival (July)
- Festival of the Madonna della Neve of Rocca Priora (July/August)
- Bruschetta Festival of Rocca Priora (August)
- Ariccia Porchetta Festival (September)
- Lariano Porcini Mushroom Festival (September)
- Pincinelle and Colonna Italia Grape Festival (September)
- Velletri Grape and Wine Festival (September)
- Feast of Homemade Bread in Genzano (September)
First part of the route: from Frascati to Rocca Priora
Frascati
It starts in Frascati, “the capital” of the production area of Frascati DOC, Cannellino, and Frascati Superiore DOCG. Frascati is the best place to remember the freshness and quality of the wines of the Castelli Romani. When you get to Frascati, we recommend going to the Medieval Fortress with its two corner towers, which is the town’s true symbol, and taking a walk through the historic center’s unique streets. Lastly, if you plan your trip for the first few months of the year, you might also be able to go to one of Lazio’s most beautiful carnivals.
Now we’re going to the most northern part of the Castelli Romani, to the village of Monte Porzio Catone, which is known as the “City of Wine.”
At 450 meters above sea level, the town has a wide view of Rome that is perfect for romantic declarations of love or “postcards” that will always be remembered. In the countryside, there are also a lot of villas. One of the most famous is Villa Mandragone, which is now the “Tor Vergata” University’s Convention Center.
Also worth seeing is the Museum of Wine, where you can look at the tools and equipment used in local farming and winemaking. You didn’t mess up, right? You were drawn to the name, right?
So, do you agree with us that when you’re in the “city of wine,” you have to stop by one of the many wineries? Let’s go to the Cantina Sociale di Monte Porzio Catone to start warming up our taste buds. There, we can try one of the many local sweets with a good glass of wine.
Colonna
Six more kilometers to the north-east bring us to Colonna, the smallest of the Castelli Romani villages. Gabriele d’Annunzio liked it here so much that he stayed for a long time.
The “Dindarolo” is beautiful, and the large water tank in the main square that looks like a piggy bank is the undisputed symbol of the town. The Museum of the Station is also interesting. Its goal is to tell the story of the legendary train that has always linked Rome and Frascati.
The historic center from the Middle Ages, which is still surrounded by the original walls, is also interesting.
Zagarolo
Now, we go all the way to Zagarolo, which is on the northern edge of the Castelli Romani Regional Park. The most interesting building here is Palazzo Rospigliosi, where the great Caravaggio painted the Supper at Emmaus and where the wonderful Demo-ethno-anthropological Toy Museum has been set up, with a beautiful collection of toys from the 20th century.
Lastly, you can’t miss a walk through the historic center’s charming streets. This will show you why Zagarolo is one of the most beautiful villages in Lazio.
The last stop before lunch is the mountain village of Rocca Priora, which is called “Rome’s Ice House” because it is 768 meters above sea level.
In the winter, there is a lot of snow. In the past, the village’s economy was based on the snow trade. It’s no accident that the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve is the most important building in Caput Mundi. You can find it while walking through the charming streets that lead to the town’s highest point, where the beautiful Belvedere offers one of the best views of the city.
Hungry?
We too. We all go to Sora Rosa, a unique inn that is a culinary center for the area. There, you can try dishes made with porcini mushrooms and meat that has been grilled.
Second part of the itinerary: from Rocca Priora to Ariccia
Velletri
After getting just enough rest to be able to handle at least two more stages, we went to Velletri, which is the Castelli Romani village that has the least to do with the history of the Colli Albani. In fact, the Volsci or the Etruscans built Velletri. This is clear from the many archaeological finds, and Velletri has never been a stronghold of the nearby Latins like all the other “Castelli.”
But it was added to the official list of Strada cities because its territory was similar to those of the other towns, it was close to them geographically, it had endless rows of vines, and its food was so good that even the pickiest “good forks” were happy. The Cathedral of San Clemente is an interesting place to visit. Even though many changes have been made to its original structure over the years, it was first built in the 5th century and still has many valuable works of art inside, like the frescoes from the 15th century and the golden organ from the end of the 16th century.
We keep going west, towards Lanuvio. enjoying the view of the 8-kilometer-long road’s vineyards. When we get to the village that gave birth to two Roman emperors, Antoninus Pius and Commodus, we can see the beautiful and well-preserved historic center, which is protected by the original walls made of peperino, a well-known magmatic stone from the area.
We get as far as the Acropolis, where we find the Civic Museum of Lanuvio, which has valuable archaeological finds, the remains of the Temple of Giunone Sospita, which was built in the 6th century BC, and the ancient Medieval Tower built into the walls, where the headquarters of the Enoteca of the Consorzio dei Vini Colli Lanuvini DOC are located, where you can try not only the best wines from this area but also the best sweets.
If you still have time, take in the beautiful view of the Agro Romano and the Tyrrhenian coast, where some of the most beautiful beach towns in Lazio are just over 20 kilometers away.
Genzano di Roma
We’re getting close to the end of our tour, but we can’t help but spend some of the time we have left in Genzano di Roma, the “village of the Infiorata.” This is a historic event that draws thousands of tourists every year, who come to see the flower carpets that are set up along one of the main streets of the pretty old town.
The Palazzo Ducale Sforza-Cesarini, which is surrounded by a huge garden from the 1800s and sits on the shores of Lake Nemi, is a must-see. So is the Church of Santa Maria della Cima, which is at the highest point of the town and from where you can see the whole village in all its beauty.
Lastly, if you happen to walk by an artisan bakery, try the local bread. It’s so good that it has the Typical Geographical Indication.
Ariccia
Lastly, Ariccia, the true artistic treasure of the Castelli Romani. Here, the architectural genius of Gian Lorenzo Bernini, an extraordinary interpreter of the national Baroque, stands out with the Monumental Complex of Piazza di Corte, or della Repubblica, watched over by the luxurious Palazzo Chigi and the impressive Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta.
Ariccia is famous not only for the artistic and architectural masterpieces it has, but also for the well-known fraschette, which are popular taverns that represent the most authentic “Roman world.” Originally built to sell local wine, it is now a culinary pilgrimage site.
We recommend the Osteria n°1, where, between a Porchetta d’Ariccia and a plate of spaghetti all’amatriciana, you can listen to a local stornellatore, another national monument that is slowly disappearing, which, if you’re lucky, will sing: “Ma è mejo de lo sciampagna/er vino de ‘ste vigne/ce fanno la cuccagna/dar tempo de Noè;/li prati a tutto spiano/so’ frutte vign’e grano:/s’annamo a mette lì,/Nannì, Nannì”
Our itinerary in a nutshell
Frascati, Monte Porzio Catone, Colonna, Zagarolo, Rocca Priora, Velletri, Lanuvio, Genzano di Roma, and Ariccia
Route length: 65 km.
What will we see?
Villa Tuscolane and Rocca Medievale (Frascati), “Dindarolo” (Colonna), Palazzo Rospigliosi (Zagarolo), Sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve and the Belvedere (Rocca Priora), Cathedral of San Clemente (Velletri), remains of the Temple of Giunone Sospita and Medieval Tower (Lanuvio), Palazzo Ducale Sforza-Cesarini and Church of Santa Maria della Cima (Genzano di Roma), Palazzo Chigi and Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta (Ariccia)
Food and wine specialties that we will taste
Bruschetta, Panzanella, Cavalicchi Soup, Spaghetti all’Amatriciana, Rigatoni with Pajata, Gnocchi with Meat Sauce, Baked Lamb, Lamb Ribs, Deviled Chicken, Coda alla Vaccinara, Porchetta from Ariccia, Puntarelle with Garlic and Anchovies, Artichokes or Broccoli alla Romana, Sauteed Chicory in a Pan, Matticella-style Artichokes, Zucchini alla Velletrana, Pane di Lariano, Pane Casareccio di Genzano IGP, the Pupazza di Frascati, the Ciambelle al Vino, the Castelli Romani Ext
Wine bars, cellars, and typical places
Monte Porzio Catone Cooperative winery (Monte Porzio Catone), Sora Rosa (Rocca Priora), Enoteca of the Consortium of Colli Lanuvini DOC Wines (Lanuvio), Osteria No. 1 (Ariccia).
Museums and attractions
Wine Museum (Monte Porzio Catone), Railway Museum (Colonna), Demo-ethno-anthropological Museum of Toys (Zagarolo), Civic Museum of Lanuvio (Lanuvio), and Lake Nemi (Genzano di Roma).
