French Riviera Unveiled: Your Travel Companion
French Riviera: these two words evoke, in the imagination of the most imaginative, that strip of green and happy land, rich in headlands and reflected in the Mediterranean, which during the belle époque saw the floral follies of princes and rulers infatuated with fascinating adventurers, but also became famous in the post-war period for the pathetic whims of American billionaires extolled by Scott Fitzgerald in “Tender is the Night.”
Scenic Villages and Hidden Gems
The French Riviera, as suggested in this guide, is as gorgeous, green, and happy inland.
They are the villages that have not yet been contaminated by mass tourism, the streets that have not experienced the discouraging congestion of the coast, and the hotels and restaurants whose prices—while not too low, as they are throughout France—have not yet reached the astronomical levels of the seaside premises.
Exploring the Côte d’Azur and Maritime Alps
A trip inland, between the Côte d’Azur, the reliefs of the Maritime Alps, and the white hills of Haute Provence, could be a pleasant surprise for everyone; it could even be a fascinating holiday for art lovers because Fragonard, Renoir, Matisse, Léger, and Picasso lived, worked, and left their works among the folds of these hills. It is perfect for those who enjoy delicious food, perfumes, good mountain honey, Napoleonic memories, spectacular natural spectacles, museums, and profound silences that make you feel as if you’re on another planet.
Island Itinerary: Discovering the Hinterland
So we’re going to the French Riviera’s hinterland. Those who cross the Italian-French border in the morning should have spent the night on the Ligurian Riviera. After Menton, the Grande Comice, one of the Three Corniche, and the panoramic roads of the Cote d’Azur are best explored in the morning with the sun behind you. There is no need to be concerned that the road climbs high up the mountain; the ascent is all condensed into the first ramps leading to the settlement of Roquebrune. Anyone visiting the castle, which is one of the most beautiful in France, must take care not to miss the sharp path on the right that goes to Piazza della Repubblica, the fortress’s original barbican and today the village’s lone parking lot.
The Nice Area: Key Attractions
The descent to Nice represents a specific moment in the journey.
To avoid getting lost in the maze of streets in the center, follow the signs to the harbor, then walk the famed Promenade degli Inglesi all the way to the end, past the airport and Gros de Cagnes. At the highway interchange with National Road 7, it is preferable to take the latter on the left, travel another 2 km, and then turn right towards Biot.
The Fernand Léger Museum is located about 300 meters before the village, on the right side of the road. Biot does not have many parking possibilities. Anyone who does not park at the square at the town’s entrance may have trouble reversing or exiting the extremely small streets with impossible curves. Furthermore, Biot is worth a visit on foot; it is 500 meters long.
Cannes and Surroundings
To reach Grasse from Biot, take the motorway to Cannes and leave at the Le Cannet toll booth. After 3 km, the signs recommend a detour to Mougins, which could be ideal for the first day of trip or a long vacation.
Begin in Mougins and travel the road to Grasse. This is the same route that Napoleon took during his final hundred days of glory. Grasse is a challenging city for drivers. Anyone coming from Mougins, or from the Cannes road, will undoubtedly travel the boulevards Leclerc and Victor Hugo to the Avenue de Gaulle. It is best to park and stroll to the Fragonard museum (the painter was born in Grasse in 1732), the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, and the Viewpoint of the Place 24 August. Grasse’s status as a “health resort” can be attributed to Pauline Bonaparte, who stayed here between 1807 and 1808 to recover. Her garden, which is breathtaking for its vegetation and panoramic views, is 4 kilometers away.
Once you’ve taken Avenue Baudoin (the road to Digne), turn right almost immediately onto Boulevard Cnarabot, then continue onto Boulevard Albert I and follow the signage.
Route Napoleon and the Gorges du Verdon
The Route Napoleon is one of France’s most picturesque mountain highways, running from south to north. At its outskirts, there are various booths selling lavender water and honey at reasonable costs.
We recommend staying overnight in Castellane before tackling the Verdon Grand Canyon Circuit the next morning. The river runs past Castellane and meets again a little farther on, already emerald green and fighting with the overhanging boulders that it has chiseled out over time. For safety concerns, we recommend using the northern road first (towards Moustiers). Because the route is narrow, it is best to remain on the mountainside rather than the steep side. Numerous signs suggest detours to vistas, almost all of which are accessible by car.
Moustiers
Moustiers is notable for the faience on display in its magnificent museum.
Moustiers’ enamelled majolica spread throughout France after Louis XIV ordered the confiscation of all gold and silver ceramics in 1672 to restore finances. The nobles then replaced the trays and plates with products from the local industry, which had the best masters here until 1873.
The tradition, which had been extinguished for many years, was revived in 1925.
After crossing the Verdon Bridge and arriving in Aiguines, which is overshadowed by an old castle, take the Corniche Sublime, or the southern route that goes alongside the canyon. It’s a dizzying route, with little protection on the cliff in many spots; it’s best to stay on the mountainside in this situation as well.
After arriving in Comps, take the road down from Draguignan to Frejus, where you can stay in beachfront hotels open from June to September.
Vence, St. Paul, and the Moyen Corniche
From here, a lovely panoramic route crosses the Esterel hills and descends into Cannes. From Golf-Juan, travelers can explore Vallauris, Antibes, and Gros de Cagnes before returning to the countryside.
From Vence, another 14 km leads through the village of Tourrettes to the Loup canyon. From there, take the secondary road D6 to the lovely St. Paul.
Returning from St. Paul to Cagnes, we take the National 7 to Nice and, once there, head up to the Moyenne Corniche to avoid the always-heavy traffic near the coastline. Not only that, but before crossing the border, you may explore the village of Eze. The journey begins and ends at the Italian border, covering 450 kilometers.
