Wine Dharma

DharMag May 2014 Brut Initiale, Blanc de Blanc, Grand Cru, Jacques Selosse: tasting note

Lost

Champagne tasting brut Initiale Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Jacques Selosse Brut Initiale, Blanc de Blanc, Grand Cru, Jacques Selosse. Another Champagne from Avize: it’s the quintessence of wine. The bouquet is that of a white, the gorgeousness that of a red, the intensity that of a raisin wine, all patterned in the finesse of a Grand Cru Champagne. Anselme Selosse is not a wizard. Only outstanding row materials for his base wine: where others employ green grapes juice, he puts real wine.

His vineyards are under bio-dynamic regime and the yeasts are natural to let the wine be free to develop before the dosage, made only with fructose from grapes. All very clear. This Champagne comes—with the solera process—from a blend of three successive vintage, 45-55% from the current year, 30-35% from the year before and the remaining from the two years before. Then comes a two years and half ageing on the yeasts, so give it thirty minutes into the glass to let its amazing subtlety flourish and a not too glacial temperature of service.

The color is pure, captivating amber, furrowed by soft bubbles.

The candied nuances of citron and broom are deeply balsamic, melted in the butter, although the acidity is bright and in harmony with a thunderous saltiness, crossed by the charge of rumbling yeasts, which scatter around aromas of cookie, nutmeg, saffron, hazelnut cream and dried fruits. It’s true, you won’t drown in bubbles, but with this complexity is not a problem.

Calling it only Champagne would be reductive… Nabob aperitivo, Game and Fois Gras pâtés, Brie, Oysters, Cappon Magro, absurdly seasoned Parmigiano, to accompany the entire meal, Meditation Wine.

As LOST is not free from flaws, some episodes were useless, the ending does not coincide with our dreams, not all the characters are well crafted, nonetheless it is a masterpiece.

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