Why Sulmona Should Be Your Next Italian Adventure
Sulmona rises at 403 meters above sea level in the basin of the same name, in the Abruzzo hinterland. Overlooking its horizon are the most beautiful, high mountain peaks of the Central Apennines: Gran Sasso, Sirente, Genzana, Maiella, Morrone. Transhumant sheep farming was practiced here even during the time of the primitive Italic nucleus, which had the name of Sulmo. Under Rome, it gained importance with Caesar and was later promoted to a municipium, enriched with temples, aqueducts, and spas. During the medieval era, it was favored by Frederick II for the support given against the Pope. Involved in conflicts with Pescocostanzo and L’Aquila, it sided with Charles of Anjou against the Swabians, and later with Ladislaus, Joanna II, and Alfonso of Aragon.
Sulmona became the favorite residence of Charles of Durazzo and even had a mint until 1528. Later, it passed to the Conca and Borghese families. Despite being devastated by earthquakes in 1445, 1675, and 1706, the city remained rich in monuments and became a flourishing center of typographic art from the 16th century. Its goldsmithing tradition dates back even further to the 14th and 15th centuries, with notable figures like Nicola di Tommaso, Ciccarello di Francesco, Masello Cinelli, and Piczulo.
In its coat of arms, Sulmona has the initials SMPE, from a verse by its most illustrious son, Ovid: Sulma mihi patria est (Sulmona is my homeland). Ovid, who flourished in Rome in the great era of Virgil and Horace, was exiled by Augustus to Tomis on Pontus (modern-day Romania), where he died. In his honor, Sulmona is twinned with Constanța, the ancient Tomis on the Black Sea.
What to See in Sulmona
The Cathedral
Romanesque, built on the site of a temple dedicated to Apollo and Vesta, who were particularly worshipped in Sulmona.
The Annunziata Complex
The richest and most important monument in the city. It is formed by the union of the Annunziata Palace, founded in 1320 by the Confraternity of Penitence, and the adjacent Annunziata Church. This ensemble is celebrated for its perfect fusion of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles.
Fontana del Vecchio
Dating back to the 15th century, the Fontana del Vecchio leans against the terminal pylon of the Aqueduct, which was built in 1256, as attested by an inscription in Lombard characters. The aqueduct is an imposing parade of 21 arches, 19 of which are ogival, providing a picturesque view of the lower Market and the Morrone Mountain in the background.
Porta Napoli
Also known as the New Gate, it likely dates back to the 14th century and is the most monumental of the 12 gates that Sulmona once had.
The Civic Museum
Located in the courtyard of the former Hospital of the Annunziata Palace, the Civic Museum includes an archaeological section with interesting Roman finds, as well as medieval and modern exhibits. There’s also a Permanent Exhibition of Abruzzo Craftsmanship.
Festivals, Fairs, and Events in Sulmona
- Regional Craft Fair: Features conferences on history, tourism, and folklore, along with art exhibitions, concerts, and sports competitions. Folklore groups in traditional costumes participate in various regional festivals.
- The Madonna Who Runs Away in the Square: The most famous and characteristic religious event in Sulmona. On Easter morning, the statue of the Madonna is carried outside dressed in mourning for the death of Christ. When the simulacrum of the Risen Christ approaches, the black veils fall from the statue of the Madonna, revealing a colored dress, while a flock of freed doves takes flight. The Madonna, carried on the shoulders of strong and fast young men, runs towards her Son.
After Easter, don’t miss the Festa dei Fuochi, and during the summer, the Giostra Cavalleresca di Sulmona is held—preceded by the Cordesca event in late spring.
Notes for Tourists
For time immemorial, the statue of Ovid, located in Piazza XX Settembre, has been listening to the chatter and confidences exchanged by the locals—known as “penguins”—at fixed times. These are the people of Sulmona, who gather in small groups to share “the latest news from the city.” Under the statue of Ovid, secrets are quickly shared. If a secret is already widely known, it is met with an annoyed comment: “Jh, chiste, lu sapere anche i sette dell’Annunziata”, meaning “Even the seven wise men of the Annunziata know this.” If the secret is met with disbelief, the saying goes: “Non si mossa foglie se non ci sta lu vento”.
What to Buy: Confetti
Sulmona has a unique scent: confetti. Centuries-old companies provide up to 54 different types of confetti. Some are traditional, like the “cannellini”, which were favorites of Leopardi. Others are newly invented, like the “perle” and the “fedi”, which are highly sought after by newlyweds and lovers. By tying confetti of different colors and shapes with silk threads, imaginative compositions are created.
Excursions from Sulmona
- The Sagittario Valley: Visit the wild gorges where Gabriele D’Annunzio set The Torch Under May.
- Mount Morrone: Visit the Badia Celestina di Santo Spirito, founded by the anchorite Pietro di Angelerio. Pietro, later canonized, founded his religious order here. On July 5, 1295, he was elected Pope, taking the name Celestine V, but he famously abdicated a few months later—a unique case.
