Why Antananarivo Should Be on Your Travel List: Mystical Sites and Market Wonders

At first glance, the capital of Madagascar resembles a Mediterranean city. Its highest point is 2,643 meters above sea level, although most of Antananarivo, also called Tana, extends around 1,400 meters. Regardless of the altitude, exploring the numerous cultural, architectural, and historical sites on foot is not easy, provided you are willing to climb hundreds of steps and are not discouraged by the chaos of the city. Antananarivo is a frenetic metropolis bustling with activity: the streets are crowded with people navigating between cars, knocking on taxi windows, and selling anything imaginable, from fruit to sunglasses, mobile phones, and even live animals. Smog pours out of exhaust pipes, making the air heavy, while motorcycles speed dangerously in all directions, dodging lines of cars and pedestrians. The main streets are crowded with stalls selling a variety of goods, tightly packed to fill every free space, sometimes even spilling into the middle of the road.

History of Antananarivo

The area where Antananarivo now stands was originally known as Analamanga, which translates to “blue forest,” and was populated by the Vazimba, the mysterious ancestors of today’s inhabitants. In 1610, a Merina king named Andrianjaka conquered the region and stationed a garrison of a thousand men to defend the new settlement, which he renamed Antananarivo, or “city of a thousand warriors.” During the colonial era, Tana became the seat of French administration under the name Tananarive. It was during this period that the city center took on its current appearance: the French built two splendid stairways and drained swamps and rice paddies to create the area now known as Analakely. In May 1929, Antananarivo was the scene of the first major demonstration against colonial presence.

Exploring Haute-Ville and Basse-Ville

The center of Antananarivo can be roughly divided into two areas: Haute-Ville, the “upper city,” and Basse-Ville, the “lower city.” The center of Basse-Ville and its commercial district is Avenue de l’Independance, which runs southeast from the train station through the busy main market area of Analakely, where a steep flight of steps leads up to the quieter Haute-Ville. Another flight of steps, directly opposite, leads down to the busy Ambondrona district, where numerous hotels are located. A series of narrow streets leads up the hillside to the Rova, the “Queen’s Palace,” while a detour down the other side of Haute-Ville leads to Lake Anosy, a heart-shaped body of water. Getting around the city isn’t always easy, as street signs are sparse and many streets have interchangeable names in Malagasy and French, both rarely used by locals.

Main Attractions in Antananarivo

One of the city’s main attractions, if only because of its size, is Lac Anosy, which extends across the southern part of the capital and is an easy downhill walk from Haute-Ville. Flocks of egrets can sometimes be seen perched in the surrounding trees in the early morning, while on an islet in the middle of the lake, linked to the shore by a causeway, stands the Monument aux Morts, a large white angel on a plinth erected by the French in memory of those who fell during the First World War. Opposite the end of the causeway is a daily market, while the southern shore is lined with barbers’ stalls.

Haute-Ville: The Historical Heart

Most of the city’s finest old buildings are concentrated in Haute-Ville, which is much quieter and easier to navigate than the busy, polluted Basse-Ville. The Rova, or royal palace, is an imposing structure perched atop the city’s highest hill, overlooking the entire Lac Anosy. A few hundred meters down the hill from the Rova is the Musée Andafivaratra, a museum housed in a magnificent baroque palace with a collection of furniture, portraits, and relics from the era of the Merina rulers. The palace was the residence of Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony, who married three successive queens and was the real power in the country. Smaller but still interesting, the Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie provides an overview of the archaeological excavations conducted on the island, with examples of decorations from tombs, a collection of musical instruments, and some talismans used for witchcraft.

Markets and Shopping in Antananarivo

There are plenty of markets in Antananarivo, and street vendors can be seen selling their wares everywhere, from stalls to cardboard boxes. The main market in Tana is held in the pavilions of Analakely, a busy place with clothes, food, and all sorts of goods. Along the tracks west of the old train station is another smaller market, the Marché Communal de Petit Vitesse, where you can find much of the same goods as in Analakely. A more unusual market is the colorful flower market, held daily on the southeastern edge of Lac Anosy. For handicrafts, the most popular market is the Marché Artisanale de La Digue.

Climate in Antananarivo

The climate is tropical, moderately hot, and humid, although the altitude means that temperatures are lower than those at coastal resorts. The hottest months are between January and April, when showers are frequent, making the days humid. From June to September, it can get cold, especially at night, with minimum temperatures below 10°C. The best time to visit the capital is between May and October, when there is little rain, and daytime temperatures are pleasant.

Getting to Antananarivo

Madagascar’s main airport is Antananarivo-Ivato Airport, an international airport located 12 kilometers from the city center, in the village of Ivato. To get around Antananarivo and the suburbs, there are a few large buses but numerous minibuses with very low fares. The terminus of most urban lines is located on Avenue de l’Independance, although due to slow traffic, it is often better to walk or take a taxi. Renting a car is not recommended due to the chaotic nature of the city’s traffic.

Where to Eat and Stay in Antananarivo

Antananarivo offers a range of accommodation options, from budget guesthouses to high-end hotels. For a comfortable stay, you can choose hotels in Haute-Ville, which are generally quieter and offer beautiful views of the city. Lokanga Boutique Hotel and Hotel Carlton are popular choices for those looking for comfort and style. When it comes to food, Tana boasts a variety of choices. For authentic Malagasy cuisine, try Restaurant Sakamanga, which offers traditional dishes in a lively atmosphere. If you’re craving international flavors, Cafe de la Gare serves delicious French-inspired meals. Don’t miss the street food scene, especially around Analakely Market, where you can sample local snacks.