Taste the Magic of Valtellina: A Gourmet Journey Through Italy’s Hidden Valley
To define the Valtellina simply as a valley would be like renouncing part of the meaning it represents, reducing it purely to its conformation as a furrow between reliefs. Living in the only province of Lombardy completely removed from the great plain, the people of Valtellina have learnt from orography and historical events to live in the mountains and to grow up a whole world between the Alps.
For this reason, it is not only the largest transverse valley on the southern side of the chain but also a hub of culture and customs, exquisitely in its own right. Even in the art of food and wine, to name just one aspect, the people of Valtellina have earned such fame that they have conquered palates even on the other side of the globe.
Sondrio: The Heart of Valtellina
Sondrio is the centre of this Alpine world, in every sense. One need only consult an atlas of the clearest European mountain range to see how the province and its peaks occupy the heart of the relief. While offering the efficiency and services of a large city, the small size of the settlement conveys a discreet charm, more akin to that of a small capital. And a small capital it can indeed be referred to, both in terms of the role history has reserved for it and in admiring how palaces, gardens, and churches define its streets. If you think that a city is a place characterised by wide streets and opulent squares, Sondrio is the opposite. The 19th-century Hotel Posta and Piazza Quadrivio are the hub of the centre, but just take any of the streets to get lost among the stone memories of ancient buildings and small squares from which you can glimpse the mountains above.
Valleys and Peaks
Just following the ridges, one discovers the rest of the world of Valtellina. Facing almost to the romantic little squares, the closest furrow is that of the Malenco Valley. More than a valley, the orographic system is comparable to a sort of castle court: two massifs circumscribed and slender by the immediately surrounding territory. Disgrazia and Scalino are the sentinels of a much more imposing sire in size, with a base of no less than 20 kilometres and a maximum height of 4,050 metres. The Bernina group is not only the westernmost four-thousand-metre peak in the Alps but also a complete mountain system. Chiesa, Lanzada, and Caspoggio are the major centres, offering hiking trails in summer and ski tracks in winter. In the local tradition, soapstone crafting lives on, with skills passed down through generations.
Winter Sports and Nature
Aprica, the first of the great passes, straddles Valtellina and Val Camonica, with slopes frequented by sportsmen from all over Europe. Moving towards Alta Rezia, centres like Tirano, Grosio, Livigno, and Bormio shine in both the green and snow seasons. Santa Caterina stands out as the birthplace of Italian snow champion Deborah Compagnoni, while the Stelvio National Park provides a stunning backdrop as the largest protected area in Italy.
Livigno, a duty-free haven, attracts visitors for shopping and outdoor adventures. At the Stelvio Pass, don’t miss the Historical Museum, which recounts episodes of the highest war ever fought in Europe, with testimonies of life amidst the perpetual snows.
From Sondrio to Pian di Spagna
Heading in the direction of Pian di Spagna, passing through a park that encompasses all the Orobic passes, one finds Val Masino, the world centre of sport climbing. The journey ends in Morbegno and Chiavenna, towns rich in art and culture. The San Marco Pass and the Ganda Bridge have borne witness to centuries of trade and travel. Further into the Val San Giacomo, Campodolcino and Madesimo offer cutting-edge ski lifts and historical paths like the Cardinello Path, preserved since Roman times, where Mozart once treaded on his journey to Spinga.
What to Eat in Valtellina
Valtellina’s cuisine is a celebration of Alpine flavors, hearty ingredients, and centuries-old traditions. The region is famous for pizzoccheri, a rustic pasta made from buckwheat flour and served with potatoes, Savoy cabbage, and plenty of melted butter and cheese—often Bitto or Valtellina Casera, two of its prized local cheeses. Another must-try is sciatt, crispy buckwheat fritters filled with gooey melted cheese, perfect as an appetizer or snack.
For meat lovers, Bresaola della Valtellina, an air-dried, cured beef with a delicate flavor, is the star. Pair it with fresh rocket, a drizzle of olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon for a simple yet exquisite dish. Traditional polenta taragna, made with a mix of buckwheat and corn flour, is often served alongside hearty stews or game meats like venison.
Valtellina also boasts exceptional desserts, like bisciola, a dense, fruit-packed sweet bread often enjoyed during the holidays. Pair your meal with a glass of Sforzato di Valtellina, a robust, rich red wine crafted from dried Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) grapes, to experience the region’s full culinary magic.
