Spello: Your Ultimate City Guide to Umbria’s Hidden Gem
When we think we’ve seen all that Umbria has to offer by touring cities like Perugia, Gubbio, and Spoleto, we’re reminded that this region never ceases to amaze. Allow me to introduce you to another jewel in the crown—Spello—a charming commune nestled at the foot of Mount Subasio, just 30 km away from Perugia.
The Origins and History of Spello’s Name
In its Roman days, the town was christened Hispellum, a title that found favor with none other than Julius Caesar, who dubbed it the “Splendidissima Colonia Julia.” Under the imperial emblem of the Eagle and fortified by a robust city wall, Spello thrived—until barbaric invasions wreaked havoc, reducing it to a mere hamlet. However, the town rose like a phoenix, first under the Duchy of Spoleto and later under Papal rule, eventually gaining autonomy and its own legislation, which remained in force even during the feudal period from 1516 to 1648.
A Stroll Through Spello’s Alleys
Today, with a population hovering around 8,600, Spello is heralded as one of the most picturesque villages in Italy. The lower town still boasts portions of its Roman walls, adorned with three grand gates: Porta Urbica on Via Roma, the magnificent Porta Consolare in the Market Square, and last but not least, Porta Venere, flanked by two dodecagonal towers known as the Towers of Propertius.
The unearthing of the so-called Villa dei Mosaici in 2005 was a watershed moment for local archeology. This discovery revealed 500 square meters of mesmerizing mosaics, spread across ten rooms, making it one of Umbria’s most sensational finds in recent decades.
A relic of the 16th century, Villa Costanzi, also known as Villa Fidelia, is a terraced architectural masterpiece, hosting a range of cultural events and concerts within its stunning internal park.
For art aficionados, the Palazzo dei Canonici houses both the Civic Museum and the Pinacoteca, brimming with exquisite pieces like a 13th-century wooden sculpture of the Madonna and Child, among many others.
Architectural Splendors: A Holy Trinity
The triad of Palazzo Comunale, Palazzo Cruciali, and Palazzo Baglioni are shining examples of architectural grandeur.
Spello’s Sacred Spaces
Spello is adorned with a stellar collection of religious buildings, the crowning jewel of which has to be the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries. This sacred space houses the unforgettable Baglioni Chapel, adorned with frescoes by Pinturicchio depicting the Annunciation, Nativity, and the Disputation at the Temple.
Next up is the Church of Sant’Andrea, built in 1258, safeguarding yet another masterpiece by Pinturicchio—a painting of the Madonna and Saints. It’s closely followed by the Church of San Lorenzo, boasting a 12th-century loggia, 16th-century rose windows, and 8th-century decorations harmoniously aligned with features of a facade that stirs the emotions.
Further explorations should include a visit to the Church of San Silvestro in Collepino and the Church of Madonna della Spella. A short distance away from the main town, you’ll find the Romanesque Church of San Claudio and the unique Tonda Church with its Greek cross layout and octagonal dome, constructed during the Renaissance period.
Corpus Domini Infiorata The much-anticipated Corpus Domini Infiorata event between May and June carpets the town in floral tapestries spanning 1.5 km, transforming it into the “Capital of Flowers.”
Events, Feasts, and the Gold of Spello
The month of June brings with it the “Days of Roses,” and simultaneously, the Floriculture Exhibition features astounding collections of orchids, succulents, roses, and carnivorous plants. L’Oro di Spello in November and February is a culinary spectacle dedicated to olive oil and bruschetta.
What to eat in Spello
What beckons tourists the most is the ever-present aroma wafting from bustling kitchens of local restaurants, trattorias, and agritourism sites. This aromatic air fills the locale from dawn to dusk. So why not surrender to your culinary desires? Savor a slice of rustic Umbria by relishing the renowned red potato gnocchi of Colfiorito with goose ragù, rapunzel salad, or dishes featuring the exceptional local legumes like bruschetta drizzled with local extra virgin olive oil, “risina” beans, or Spello chickpeas. Don’t miss the chance to try “cicerchia,” an ancient legume best suited for salads and soups. To wash down these mouthwatering Umbrian delights, there’s Grechetto wine, celebrated in its very own festival. This grape variety, brought by Romans from Greece, not only provides an excellent excuse for a toast but also offers a host of entertaining shows and concerts in early July.
Spello’s Thermal Spas
A final treat: The Spello region is abundant in sulfur springs, allowing the town to pamper its tourists with spa treatments mainly located in the Francescane Thermal Baths. These include three indoor (and three outdoor) pools heated to temperatures between 34-37 degrees Celsius, along with whirlpool jets, cascading waterfalls, and water games—all set within an expansive park.
Getting to Spello
From Rome by car, you’ll take the A1 Highway, exit at Orte heading towards Terni/Spoleto and then Foligno, exiting right after for Spello. Rail options include the Foligno-Florence line, which passes through Spello’s station. If you’re flying, you’ll land at Perugia airport and from there make your way to the regional capital to catch further connections to Spello.
Climate and The Best Times to Visit Spello
The lush countryside surrounding Spello, along with its local festivals, underscore the region’s agricultural importance. For the produce to be tasty, authentic, and of high quality, a mild and pleasant climate is essential—just like the one found in the heart of Umbria. Average temperatures range from a low of 0°C to a high of 9°C in January, the coldest month, and between 15°C and 30°C in July. Rainfall is scant in summer but peaks in November with an average of 93 mm. The most favorable time for a holiday is spring—from mid-March to early June—and late summer to mid-autumn, roughly from the last week of August to mid-October.
