Lost in Brenzone: A Journey Through Medieval Villages, Olive Groves, and Sparkling Waters
It seems that it could have been the Brenni, a Germanic tribe that settled on Mount Baldo and accustomed to raids and banditry on the lake, who gave Brenzone its name. The town is located northwest of Verona, 46 km from the capital, overlooking the fresh waters of Lake Garda, along the Veronese shore. The municipal territory also includes the Mount Baldo massif and part of the Vaccara valley, as well as 16 hamlets of varying sizes, located partly on the lake (Castelletto, Magugnano, home to the Town Hall, Marniga, Assenza, and Porto) and partly on the first slopes of Mount Baldo (Biasa, Fasor, Boccino, Venzo, Castello, Zignago, Borago, Pozzo, and Sommavilla). Higher up, you come across Campo, an uninhabited medieval village, but full of magic and enchantment.
A Difficult Past and Its Traditions
The particular location of Brenzone, nestled between the shores of the lake and the steep slopes of Mount Baldo, meant that for a long time serious difficulties were encountered in the construction of land communication routes. Until the first half of the nineteenth century, there was no alternative to the poor mule tracks and paths, narrow between dry stone walls, which wound to connect the various inhabited centers. On the other hand, the water communication routes have always been developed, which favored a lively and profitable relationship between the opposite shores of the lake.
Olive Oil and the Mediterranean Climate
Until tourism took hold, the economy of the town was based above all on the breeding of silkworms, the production of cheese, and the cultivation of olive trees to obtain a delicious oil, which has lived on in tradition and resisted to the present day. The presence of olive trees, like other types of plants characteristic of the Mediterranean area, is favored by the climate of Brenzone, which has rather high average temperatures and rainfall concentrated in spring and autumn, thanks to the mitigating effect of the waters of Garda.
Churches and Religious Heritage
As evidence of the deep faith of the locals, tied to tradition and attention to the spiritual dimension, various churches emerge from the suggestive landscape surrounding the lake, worthy of being discovered by those passing by. One of the oldest is the Church of San Zeno, known as “de l’oselet.” It seems that the western façade dates back to the 12th century and the eastern façade even to the 11th. The magnificent frescoes on the life of St. John the Baptist kept inside, however, date back to the 13th century and embellish the structure with three apses and two naves.
Campo: A Timeless Village
But the most evocative corner of Brenzone, where time seems to have stopped many centuries ago, is the small district of Campo: nestled between the protective rocks of a valley, watched over by gnarled centuries-old olive trees, it is a village of medieval origins reachable from the mule track that connects Castelletto and Prada. Long abandoned and now dilapidated, Borgo contains all the charm of ancient forgotten stories: around the remains of a castle are the houses, with beautiful stone portals, and the Romanesque church of San Pietro in Vincoli, with its frescoed interior.
Festivals and Events in Brenzone
Once a year, for about twenty years, on Easter Monday, Campo returns to live the life of the past: the people of Brenzone once again bring the magical place to life, cooking for everyone “bigoli con le agole” (spaghetti with bleak) and “of dur” (hard-boiled eggs).
Other events not to be missed are: the Brenzone Crazy Regatta, which has been held on August 15 since 1995 and consists of a race between boats made with recycled materials; the Ondes de Luy, celebrated every July 11th in the Parish of Castello di Brenzone with a long procession that passes through the local villages to culminate in a great evening party, animated by music and dancing and refreshed by typical culinary specialties, all crowned by splendid fireworks.
How to Reach Brenzone
To reach Brenzone by train, the closest station is Verona Porta Nuova or Peschiera del Garda, at the intersection of the Milan-Venice line with the Rome/Brennero line. If you travel by plane, flights land at Verona-Villafranca, Brescia-Montichiari, and Bergamo-Orio al Serio.
How to Reach Brenzone
By Train: The nearest stations are Verona Porta Nuova and Peschiera del Garda, connected to major Italian cities.
By Air: Fly into Verona-Villafranca, Brescia-Montichiari, or Bergamo-Orio al Serio airports.
By Car: From the north, exit at Rovereto Sud on the A22 Brennero-Modena motorway and follow the SS249 state road. From the south, exit at Affi and follow signs for Torri del Benaco and Brenzone. From the west or east, exit at Peschiera del Garda and follow the scenic lakeside route.
Where to Stay
- Hotel Brenzone & Villa del Lago: Nestled along the lake, this charming hotel combines modern amenities with traditional charm.
- Albergo Casa Este: A cozy family-run hotel offering panoramic views of the lake and surrounding mountains.
- Camping Bavaria: Ideal for outdoor enthusiasts, this campsite offers direct lake access and stunning natural surroundings.
- Hotel Orione: Known for its friendly service and tranquil setting, perfect for a relaxing getaway.
- Villa Margherita: A boutique option for travelers seeking a luxurious stay with breathtaking views of Lake Garda.
Where to Eat
- Ristorante al Vapor: Renowned for its fresh seafood dishes and lakeside ambiance.
- La Zattera: A must-visit for authentic regional cuisine, including homemade pasta and locally sourced olive oil.
- Trattoria da Angelo: Famous for its traditional “bigoli con le agole” and hearty Italian fare.
- Pizzeria Castelletto: Offers wood-fired pizzas with a modern twist, paired with local wines.
- Osteria al Pescatore: A cozy spot featuring freshly caught lake fish and delightful desserts.