Fiuggi: Where History and Healing Waters Meet in Ciociaria
Among the chestnut forests of the characteristic Ciociaria in Lazio, the town of Fiuggi – in the province of Frosinone – positively suffers from its ambivalence given by its dual soul, the one residing in the oldest core, Fiuggi City, the other deposited in the modern Fiuggi Fonte, the thermal area. On the other hand, this should not come as a surprise, because the distinction of the inhabited areas has a historical antecedent that has always been linked to the renown of the mineral and thermal waters of the place, which have therefore contributed to the gestation of a locality not by chance born with the toponym fluvius in accordance with the presence of copious springs that make it today one of the most important thermal resorts in Europe, very popular since it adheres to the needs of young people, the elderly and families in search of relaxation and tranquility. Instead, Anticoli (i.e., in front of the hills) was its civic name destined to endure for a long time.
The History of Fiuggi
The beneficial properties of the anticolan waters began to gain fame as early as the Middle Ages thanks to Pope Boniface VIII, who benefited from assimilating them by healing troublesome kidney stones, as did Michelangelo Buonarroti, also afflicted and cured during the 1500s thanks to the sap of Anticoli. It was thus that from being an anonymous village, it emancipated itself to such an extent that it changed its name to Fiuggi to bind itself closely to its greatest liquid treasure.
The 20th century saw the town prosper and develop by introducing targeted modernisms designed to improve urban efficiency and enrich the entire Fiuggi complex. In 1910 the monumental Grand Hotel Città di Fiuggi arose in parallel with the massive spread in the town of the Art Nouveau style well combined with its medieval roots.
What to See in Fiuggi
The medieval part is represented by the defensive walls still standing (the same unfortunately cannot be said for the old castle of the upper part, now gone), the ramparts and gates – Elm Gate (demolished for expansion purposes as the Porta del Colle) and Porta della Portella (the only surviving one) – making the locality an ever-youthful child of history perfectly in step with the times. Each building can serenely rise as a symbol of growth and blazon, integrity and beauty. The Palazzo Comunale designed by Luigi Rodolfi in the early 1900s boasts an airy council hall where Alfredo Tosti’s unfinished fresco, depicting Boniface VIII seated on a throne and surrounded by the papal court receiving a delegation of anticolan ambassadors bearing the water of Fiuggi. More venerable is the eighteenth-century Palazzo Falconi, also the custodian of a much less noble painting than Rodolfi’s: made by Mastro Ubaldo in 1810, it is but a silhouette of Napoleon Bonaparte intended to mock the patrons who came here at the time to accompany the emperor’s visit, which never took place.
The Well of the Virgin, a 15th-century dwelling that belonged to Cav. Severa, simply recalls the feudal custom of “jus primae noctis” (we’ll never tire of saying it, it turned out to be a historical forgery but someone, indeed many still believe it). The small Chapel of the Immaculate Conception on the Michelangelo Hill (it bears a stele on which there is a statue of Our Lady blessed by Pope John XXIII) paves the way for the treatment of ecclesiastical heritage, which is no small matter. The Chapel of the Capuchins, located along the road heading to Alcinazzo, is in truth a late medieval monastery truncated with pride for its statue of the fountain La bella Anticolana and the five bronze panels representing Modern Fiuggi, Fiuggi of Boniface VIII, Fiuggi of the Piles, Fiuggi of Michelangelo and Fiuggi in the Times. The Church of St. Clare can be said to be dedicated not only to the saint but also to the three Faioli sisters, founders in 1741 of the Sisters of the Immaculate Conception of St. Clare and of a school whose purpose was to welcome and educate orphans, having been orphans themselves. A monument sculpted by Angelo Canevari depicts them giving full meaning to their benevolent deeds.
Fiuggi’s main church is the Collegiate Church of St. Peter the Apostle, dating from the 18th century and equipped with six chapels, three on the left side and three on the right. The most artistically representative sacred building is certainly the Regina Pacis Church, consecrated in 1922 and rich in mosaics, graffiti, wall paintings, frescoes, statues, and beautiful stained-glass windows. Next are the churches of San Biagio (the oldest so much so that the date of its construction is unknown), Santo Stefano Protomartire, Santa Maria del Colle, Santa Maria delle Tre Cone, Santa Teresa di Gesù Bambino and, finally, the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Stella.
The Hot Springs of Fiuggi
Returning to the renowned hot springs, there really is something for everyone. The two main establishments distributing the curative water (contrasting mainly gout, urinary stones and diseases of the urinary system) turn out to be the Fonte Bonifacio VIII and the Fonte Anticolana, crowned by as many as 250 hotels totaling 15,000 beds, restaurants, pizzerias, nightclubs and clubs of various kinds. Sports are widely practiced in the modern multipurpose center, complete with an 18-hole golf course, swimming pools, tennis heads, bocce courts and even a riding school.
Fiuggi’s Surroundings
Ski enthusiasts can glide through the snow from December to April, aiming for Campocatino at an altitude of 1,800 meters (we’re talking about an area of 5 ski lifts and 10 downhill runs plus one dedicated to Nordic skiing and a school with 14 instructors) or Staffi Camp near Filettino (one of the most modern ski resorts in Lazio, also equipped with the futuristic Snowboard Park). Major recreational activities take place at the Palaterme, Teatro della Fonte and Teatro Comunale di Fiuggi.
It is not illicit, however, to stray far from the urban center, since in the vicinity flourish pleasant localities of exceptional beauty that take advantage of the naturalistic fabric of Ciociaria: these are Montecassino (60 km away), Subiaco (approx. 10 km) and Certosa di Trisulti, not forgetting the capital, Rome, reachable by car or train in a short time. For a vivid immersion in the enchanted greenery go to the Canterno Lake Nature Reserve.
Events, Festivals, and Manifestations
Fiuggi stages on February 3 and 4 the celebratory Feast of the Stuzze dedicated to St. Blaise, an ancient folk custom that is said to have averted a siege by papal troops in 1298, who mistook the fireworks for a fire, thus giving up the conquest. The stuzze consist of stubble turned over time into oak trunks and sheds made of broom branches. The festival is repeated on the first Sunday in August so that tourists can also experience it.
On that occasion, one can also take the opportunity to make oneself saturated with the local cuisine which includes excellent cheeses such as sheep’s milk ricotta and the caciotta, the fresh gnocchetti and the fine noodles with meat sauce, typical cold cuts, l’abbacchio and traditional desserts (macaroons and doughnuts). Valuable red and white accompaniments are the very popular Cesanese del Piglio D.O.C., the Passerina del Frusinate I.G.T. and the Cabernet di Atina. Finally, in winter, Fiuggi hosts the traditional Christmas markets.
How to Get to Fiuggi
By car, take the A1 highway, exit at Fiuggi-Anagni and take the Anticolana road, which leads to the resort in 10 minutes; buses connect to the main cities in Italy; by train, you arrive at the Anagni-Fiuggi Terme station, with a bus connection; the reference airport is Rome-Fiumicino, with many international flights.
Where to Eat
Fiuggi’s culinary offerings reflect its Ciociarian roots. For authentic local dishes, try La Taverna del Castello, located in Fiuggi City, offering traditional specialties like abbacchio and homemade gnocchi. For a more modern twist, head to Trattoria Il Cavallino, which combines regional flavors with contemporary presentation. Pizzerias such as Pizzeria da Massimo are perfect for a casual meal.
Where to Stay
For luxury, stay at the Grand Hotel Palazzo della Fonte, an elegant retreat with spa facilities. Travelers looking for a cozy and intimate atmosphere can choose Hotel Fiuggi Terme Resort & Spa, conveniently located near the thermal springs. Families may enjoy the Ambasciatori Place Hotel, offering spacious rooms and activities for all ages.
