Exploring Ashgabat: A Modern Traveler’s Guide to Turkmenistan’s Unseen Wonders
Ashgabat is the main city of Turkmenistan and the capital of the country. Located near the border with Iran, it hosts a population of nearly 700,000 inhabitants. Originally razed to the ground in the first century AD, the city—then a simple village—was slowly rebuilt and became an important center along the Silk Road. Repeatedly invaded, conquered, and destroyed by various populations, including the Mongols in the 13th century, it wasn’t until the 19th century that Ashgabat gained significance. Under Russian rule, the city rapidly transformed from a small village into the regional capital as a frontier town.
However, on the night between October 5 and 6, 1948, a devastating earthquake, measuring 9 on the Richter scale, completely leveled the city, killing over 100,000 people. It was rebuilt in Soviet style, but today, fueled by revenues from gas and oil, the capital is experiencing an economic boom, and its architectural profile is constantly evolving.
Please note that in recent years, during the presidency of Niyazov, street names were replaced by numbers, adding to the chaos for tourists trying to navigate the city. This, compounded by previous changes made during the transition from Soviet times to independence in the 1990s, means a single street can be known by three different names, depending on the context.
Travel Tips
Due to the unpredictable phobias of the ruling authorities, there’s a possibility that when entering Turkmenistan, an official guide may be assigned to foreigners, which could limit travel independence. Additionally, it’s worth noting that in major hotels and tourist-frequented areas, there are surveillance devices (commonly referred to as “bugs”). As such, it’s wise to be cautious about what you say and where you say it; this may seem incredible, but it is a reality.
Among the country’s peculiarities are the prices of many museums, which, though beautiful, can be exorbitantly high, discouraging visitors. However, there are attractions within everyone’s budget, and some are even free. You’ll also encounter numerous statues of the former president Niyazov, known as the “father of all Turkmen,” obsessed with the cult of personality. Since these statues are likely to be removed soon due to the more understated style of the new president, visitors to Ashgabat may still have the chance to see the enormous—and somewhat absurd—golden statue of Niyazov that rotates 360° to follow the Sun’s movement, perched atop the equally improbable Arch of Neutrality.
In the central area, the golden dome of the Turkmenbashi Palace stands out on Independence Square, along with other government buildings, including the parliament (known as Majlis) and several ministries. The Monument to the Earthquake Victims, where Niyazov is depicted as a child, hides beneath it the Earthquake Museum, which can be visited for free. Further along the avenue, an eternal flame burns at the Soviet War Memorial, and nearby stands the Magtymguly State University. Also in the central area are the Carpet Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, and a somewhat curious statue of Lenin, located near the former Communist Party Archives of Turkmenistan.
To the east of the center is the Azadi Mosque, while Iran’s futuristic, neon-lit mosque dominates the western outskirts of the capital.
In the newly developed and rather artificial Berzengi district, in addition to shopping centers and international hotels, you’ll find the Monument to the Independence of Turkmenistan (known derisively as the “plunger” due to its obvious aesthetic resemblance), as well as the lavish Museum of Turkmen Values. Further south, the Palace of Knowledge houses the Turkmenbashi Museum, where all the awards and gifts received by Niyazov from various international dignitaries are on display.
Tolkuchka Bazaar
Leaving this surreal world, you can experience the traditional face of Ashgabat at the spectacular Tolkuchka Bazaar, a massive market on the outskirts of the city where you can buy and bargain for virtually anything—from jewelry to camels, from fruit to home goods and men’s clothing. The bazaar’s highlight, however, is the trade in carpets, though it’s important to note that a certificate is still required to take them out of the country. The market is open on Saturdays and Sundays, and partially on Thursdays.
Finally, a mention should be made of the Turkmenbashi Funicular, which begins at the base of Kopet Dag—near the National Museum—and ascends to an altitude of 1,293 meters, offering breathtaking views of the capital and surrounding desert.
Getting there
Ashgabat is connected by direct flights or those with layovers to major Asian cities and several key European locations, including Frankfurt, London, Moscow, and Istanbul. For domestic flights, it’s worth noting that, thanks to government subsidies, ticket prices are particularly low, so booking well in advance is advisable.
After recent government investments, the city is now served by a respectable number of modern Chinese trains that run along the national railway network, though punctuality is not always guaranteed. Alternatively, buses, marshrutkas, and collective taxis connect Ashgabat to the country’s main destinations.
