Cuneo: The Hidden Jewel of Piedmont That Every Gourmet Must Experience
Slowly, flowing from the east and west towards the plain, the Gesso stream and the Stura di Demonte have formed a wedge-shaped terrace. Here, in a fascinating natural theatre, where the arc of the south-western Alps acts as a backdrop and the backdrops are Monviso, Argentera, and Bisalta, a beautiful city of art and culture was born, populated by 55,000 inhabitants. Given the shape of the plateau, it could only be called Cuneo.
History
In the heart of Piedmont, the capital of the province of the same name, Cuneo was founded as far back as 1198, and the oldest nucleus occupies the very tip of the flat triangle. From here, over time, the other city streets developed, according to the chessboard layout typical of the Middle Ages, until the fascinating city of today was obtained.
Cuneo’s most flourishing period was the Napoleonic age, when the settlement gradually extended towards the base of the natural ‘wedge’ and took on the appearance of the typical 19th-century town: a chessboard full of palaces and sumptuous monuments, joined to the ancient area by the wide Piazza Galimberti.
What to See in Cuneo
Witness to the city’s historical stages is Via Roma, the main road axis linking the two different moments of urban development: walking along this street is like taking a trip back in time, in the relaxing shade of the porticoes. Among the stops not to be missed is the Cathedral, dedicated to Our Lady of the Wood, begun in the 17th century but substantially modified in the 18th century and only finished in the 19th century, with a beautiful neoclassical façade. Also dating from the 19th century is the dome, decorated inside with fine frescoes by Toselli, while the wooden choir belongs to the original version of the structure.
St Sebastian
Another interesting church, dating back to the 14th century, is that of St Sebastian, whose original appearance has been almost completely lost. Various changes were made in the 17th century, and the reconstruction of the façade in 1880 definitively changed its appearance. The most precious jewel, kept inside, is the wooden choir by Tommaso Fontana, made at the end of the 16th century.
The last building of worship worth mentioning is the Church of Santa Croce, built in the early 18th century with an original concave façade. Here you can admire the beautiful Gothic cathedra of San Bernardino, kept in the apse, and Moncalvo’s canvas depicting the Madonna and Child with Saints, painted between the 17th and 18th centuries.
Among the most interesting civil monuments in Cuneo is the Palazzo della Torre, opposite the Town Hall, built during the 17th century but partly modified later, in the early 19th century. With its ancient municipal tower dominating the heart of the historical centre, it has always been the fulcrum of civil power.
Those who love history and want to learn more about Cuneo’s past can visit the Civic Museum: in addition to the collection, exciting and rich in itself, the building in which it is housed is worth a look. In fact, the exhibition venue is the ancient Church of San Francesco, the most important medieval building in the town, with its 15th-century terracotta façade and Gothic bell tower. One of the most original sections of the museum is that of the ‘Lenci’ dolls, wearing typical Alpine valley costumes.
Events, Festivals, and Fairs
After admiring the historical-artistic testimonies of the town centre, the time comes to experience the town in person, coming into contact with local culture and traditions. In this regard, the events that take place at various times of the year are very stimulating: among the most eagerly awaited events is the Great Summer Fair in June, the literary review ‘Scrittorincittà’, which has been bringing shows, conferences, exhibitions and meetings between readers and writers to Cuneo since 1999. The Cuneopizzafest, a culinary event celebrating the tradition of wood-fired oven pizza, takes place in the second week of June.
Of more recent institution is the Oktoberfest Beer Festival, which generally takes place between the end of September and the month of October, while during the same period, don’t miss the Festival of Common Places.
Typical Products
Cuneo cuisine, however, is an inevitable and very welcome component of any festival or event. In fact, the Alpine region is generous with delicious meats, tasty cheeses, and excellent wines, while the Langhe stands out for its hazelnuts and truffles. Among the specialities are the ‘gnocchi alla bava’, served with fresh cheese, truffle, and cream, or polenta, served with sausage and snails cooked in wine. Taste the ‘lonzardo’, a very tasty smoked ham, and the delicious ‘cuneesi al rhum’, soft chocolates dipped in the fragrant liqueur.
Climate and When to Go
Its location, in a cradle in the mountains at an altitude of more than 500 metres, influences the local climate: in fact, Cuneo, like all large Piedmontese towns, has a temperate sub-continental climate, with hot summers and cold winters, but the altitude helps to mitigate summer temperatures, making them more pleasant. In July, the hottest month, the average value is around 22°C, while in January, the average is 2°C. Sheltered from Atlantic disturbances, the city is rarely affected by rainfall, which is mainly concentrated in spring and autumn, while winter snowfalls are frequent. This makes it the snowiest provincial capital in Italy.
How to Get There
Reaching Cuneo and its beauties is not difficult.
- By car: The city is connected to Turin and the Ligurian Riviera via the A6 Turin-Savona motorway.
- By train: The railway network connects Cuneo directly with Savona and Turin, and there are two stations in the city: Cuneo Centrale and Cuneo-Gesso, the latter just a short walk from the historic centre.
- By plane: The nearby Turin Caselle Airport guarantees connecting flights to all major Italian and European cities. About 30 km away, in the small hamlet of Levaldigi, there is an airport that regularly connects the Cuneo area with Rome and other Italian locations.
Where to Stay in Cuneo
Cuneo offers a variety of accommodations to suit every type of traveler, from charming boutique hotels to comfortable B&Bs and modern apartments.
- Palazzo Lovera: A luxurious 4-star hotel located in the historic center, combining history and modern amenities. The elegant rooms and on-site restaurant make it a perfect choice for a refined stay.
- Hotel Royal Superga: A cozy hotel housed in a historic building near Piazza Galimberti. Known for its excellent service and hearty breakfasts featuring local delicacies.
- B&B Il Rosso e Il Blu: This welcoming and modern B&B offers bright rooms and a convenient location close to the city center. Ideal for families or couples seeking a homely touch.
- Agriturismo La Pieve: Located just outside the city, this countryside retreat offers rustic charm, breathtaking views of the Alps, and homemade meals with locally sourced ingredients.
Where to Eat in Cuneo
Cuneo’s culinary scene is a celebration of Piedmontese flavors, with a focus on fresh ingredients, traditional recipes, and innovative twists.
- Ristorante Osteria della Chiocciola: Renowned for its creative reinterpretations of traditional dishes, this intimate restaurant offers a menu that features truffles, cheeses, and seasonal vegetables. Don’t miss their gnocchi alla bava!
- Trattoria Roma: A traditional eatery in the city center, known for hearty Piedmontese classics like brasato al Barolo and polenta with sausage. The warm atmosphere makes it a favorite among locals.
- Pasticceria Arione: Famous for its Cuneesi al Rhum, this historic pastry shop is perfect for a sweet break and a taste of Cuneo’s most iconic chocolate delicacies.
- Birrificio Troll: A unique spot offering a fantastic selection of craft beers and dishes like pork ribs and Alpine cheeses, perfect for pairing with their brews.
- Ristorante Vecchio Borgo: Located near the historic center, this elegant restaurant specializes in refined Piedmontese cuisine, with an emphasis on local wines and fresh, seasonal ingredients.
