Craco: The Spellbinding Ghost Town of Basilicata
You stop in the center of the town and listen: rustling of trees in the distance, the light blowing of the breeze, some chirping, and the heated songs of cicadas rising from the nearby countryside. These are the sounds that dominate in Craco, a medieval town in Basilicata, in the province of Matera. Not because it is a particularly quiet place, or because its inhabitants are silent. The uniqueness of Craco, which has made it famous in Italy and beyond, is that it is a ghost town, completely uninhabited since the 1960s.
Adorned with cereal fields and olive groves, the town resembles a sculpture of houses clinging to the limestone rock, embroidered with narrow streets and steep stairways. Above it all rise the imposing silhouettes of a Norman tower and a 13th-century castle. From afar, it looks like a single monumental mountain: the colors of the houses, churches, and fortifications blend with the hues of the rugged cliff on which they rest.
A Town Shaped by Landslides and Time
As you approach, you see traces of the disastrous landslides that, in the latter half of the 20th century, forced the population to abandon the town. It was in 1963 that a particularly violent tremor struck, making the area unsafe. Since then, nature has slowly reclaimed the village, while the locals relocated downstream to the Craco Peschiera area. Looking back, we can say that the landslides ultimately shaped the town’s allure: without them, Craco wouldn’t be the magical and captivating landscape it is today—so captivating that it has been chosen multiple times as a movie set by prominent directors.
Set in a surreal landscape, scorched by the sun and lying halfway between the sea and the Lucanian Apennines, the village is surrounded by calanchi, deep furrows that mark the chalky ground like wrinkles left by time, formed by rainwater flowing downstream. Those enchanted by the view and who decide to enter Craco’s heart will be amazed by the intact village center, preserved just as the last inhabitants left it. Apart from some unusual movie props, the town holds the same beautiful landmarks that characterized it in the past. Walking through its streets, you can peer inside the old homes, seeing remnants of noble residences as well as houses of the peasant and pastoral communities.
The Districts and Legends of Craco
Like incantations from a storybook, the names of Craco’s neighborhoods evoke a rich and mysterious history. The name Canzoniere is said to come from an old tavern located along a busy shepherd’s route. According to tradition, it was run by a beautiful woman who, like the sorceress Circe, held her unlucky patrons under her spell with her beauty and charm.
The San Lorenzo district takes its name from an old vaulted fountain along the road to Cavone, surrounded by slender palms and silvery olive trees. In the background are the reassuring silhouettes of the old farmhouses, austere rural structures that are true artworks of countryside culture. The Sant’Eligio district, on the other hand, is dedicated to the patron saint of blacksmiths, featuring a splendid chapel adorned with frescoes—likely from the 16th century—that depict scenes of saints around the crucified Christ.
Architectural Wonders of Craco
Among the historic buildings of great artistic and architectural interest, the castle, built in the 13th century, stands out with its beautiful entrance portal and tower. Then there’s the Church of San Vincenzo and the Church of San Nicola, with its baroque altars in multicolored marble and two paintings depicting the Madonna and Child and the Archangel Raphael. On the outskirts lies the Church of the Friars Minor Observant, dedicated to San Paolo, featuring an interior with two naves that culminate in a baroque altar, a beautiful 17th-century painting, and a valuable wooden choir.
A Living Ghost Town
But Craco, despite having been uninhabited for so long, is not just a ghost town to observe—it is an enchanted place to experience. For example, every summer evening at the former Monastery of the Friars Minor, grand concerts of classical, sacred, and secular music take place, adding to the charm of this small, timeless village.
How to Get to Craco
There are several ways to reach Craco. Those traveling by car can take the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria motorway, exit at Sicignano degli Alburni/Potenza, continue on the E847 to Pisticci Scalo, then take the SS176 to Peschiera, and finally the SS103 to Craco. If traveling by train, the closest station is Pisticci Scalo, while the nearest airport is Bari, 119 km away.
Climate and Weather in Craco
Upon arriving, you’ll be greeted by a pleasant climate, which is Mediterranean near the coast and becomes slightly cooler inland. In the Craco area, the average temperatures in January, the coldest month, range from a minimum of 2°C to a maximum of 10°C, while in July and August, they range from 16°C to 30°C. Precipitation is sparse in the summer, concentrated mainly in autumn. October is the wettest month, with an average of 69 mm of rainfall.
