Climb to the Heights: A Journey to San Luca Sanctuary, Bologna’s Crown Jewel
This significant Marian sanctuary, which is easily accessible on foot from Bologna’s center and features a portico with 666 arches and 489 steps, overlooks the city and provides a breathtaking view of the Emilian plain and the peaks of the northern Apennines.
The Bolognans find great significance in the Madonna di San Luca Sanctuary. Situated 280 meters above sea level on Colle della Guardia, the basilica’s profile and the lengthy portico connecting it to the historic center can be seen for kilometers, providing a sense of familiarity to visitors returning to Bologna after an out-of-town excursion.
Still, San Luca is above all a place of devotion. Many pilgrims have visited the sanctuary over the ages, and they continue to ascend the hill to see the Black Madonna, a picture of the Virgin with Child that is kept on display above the high altar.
Between history and legend
The history of the basilica started in 1194 when a plot of land on the Colle della Guardia was given by the devout Bolognese woman Angelica Bonfantini. After receiving Pope Celestine III’s approval, construction on the church, which Bonfantini had commissioned to provide the holy icon of the Virgin with a worthy home, commenced.
Later, a myth surrounding the Madonna—who is thought to have been born between the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries—arose from the conviction that the evangelist Luke was the one who actually completed the painting. The Madonna icon is said to have been brought to Bologna by a Greek pilgrim by the name of Teocle, who left Constantinople to find the exhibition location, which he recognized as Colle della Guardia.
The attribution of the sacred image is actually still up in the air.
This story increased the Madonna of San Luca’s fame, eventually making her an object of worship. Her notoriety was heightened by one particular incident, the so-called miracle of the rain. Tradition has it that the harvest was severely harmed by the 1433 unceasing and copious spring rains, which is why the city authorities moved the image of the Madonna to the center of Bologna. When the sun rose, people greeted her as a miracle, and they had prayed to her for the grace to restore the clear sky.
Since then, the Madonna’s portrait has been carried in a procession from Colle della Guardia to the Basilica of San Pietro annually to celebrate the rainy season. There, it is on display for a week before being returned to the sanctuary. This occasion is referred to in the city as “the descent of the Madonna of San Luca.”
The basilica has experienced a number of changes over time. The current appearance of the basilica was only achieved by architect Carlo Francesco Dotti through reconstruction work that began in 1723 and was finished more than 40 years later with the basilica’s reopening to the public in 1765.
A visit to the Sanctuary, symbol of Bologna
Today, the sanctuary strikes with its curved lines and warm colors, giving the impression of a majestic baroque structure. A guided tour-only dome with an elliptical plan on a Greek cross atop the main body is accessible, and the two lateral wings project a classical-style facade in front. The latter seem to greet pilgrims and guests as they define the square in front of the sanctuary with their curved shapes.
As soon as you walk into the basilica, you are drawn to the high altar. It is positioned high and contains a tempera-painted panel with silver leaf decorations that depict the Virgin Mary. You can see the presbytery up close and take in all of its details by using the lateral staircase that leads to it.
Instead, the side chapels hold the works of renowned painters like Donato Creti, who created two altarpieces in the second chapel on the left, and Guido Reni, who created the Madonna and Child, Saint Dominic, and the Mysteries of the Rosary in the third chapel on the right, and Guercino, who created the Apparition of Christ to the Madonna in the main sacristy.
San Luca’s steps and portico
How do you get to San Luca?
For those prepared to put in a little physical work, strolling along the portico is a delightful experience. It starts at Arco Bonaccorsi, which is located just outside Porta Saragozza, and goes through Arco del Meloncello before arriving at the basilica’s entrance in 45 to 50 minutes. Please be aware that there are 489 steps to climb in order to reach the top of the hill.
A long portico was built in the eighteenth century specifically to provide weather protection for pilgrims making their way to the Sanctuary of San Luca. Thus, after raising the required funds through donations from its citizens between 1674 and 1721, Bologna constructed the longest portico in the world, measuring 3,796 meters. The border separating the flat section of the portico from the start of the ascent towards San Luca was marked by Carlo Francesco Dotti, the architect behind the picturesque Arco del Meloncello.
In relation to numbers, the portico has 666 arches, which is reminiscent of the Devil’s figure. The building’s shape alludes to a snake ascent toward the sanctuary, where it is crushed by the Madonna’s feet, signifying the victory of good over evil.
The Bregoli Trail
The Sentiero dei Bregoli, a steep mule track that ascends from the Church of San Martino in Casalecchio di Reno to a few hundred meters from the Madonna di San Luca, is another route to get to the sanctuary on foot. Visit the previously mentioned church and skirt the brick-colored building by walking along Via de’ Bregoli to start this spiritual journey. Beyond the church starts a steep path (walking shoes recommended) that leads along the Via Crucis through a forest to the Via San Luca. Take a left turn on the asphalt road, and you will arrive at the basilica in approximately 500 meters.
Run Forrest, Run!
The portico is a common place for walkers and athletes to work on their breathing and legs as they ascend to the sanctuary.
But there used to be another way to get to the top of the hill, which was particularly useful for people who weren’t very athletic. Beginning at the plain, you could arrive at the Colle della Guardia while sitting comfortably in the cabins of a cable car. The cable car was decommissioned in 1976 after much controversy, having been inaugurated in 1931 according to a design by Ferruccio Gasparri.
How do I get to San Luca Sanctuary?
By bus: Bus 58 leaves from Villa Spada and travels to the sanctuary, where you can catch the Basilica of San Luca.
via tourist train
San Luca Express is a toll-train that leaves from Piazza Maggiore and travels to Colle della Guardia.
By vehicle
After leaving Bologna’s center and continuing on Via Saragozza, turn left onto an inclining road that will lead you straight to San Luca as you approach the Arco del Meloncello. A parking lot can be found on the right side of Via di San Luca after you pass the Sanctuary.
Opening times
Winter hours are 07.00–12.30 and 14.30–18.00.
Summer hours are 07.00–12.30 and 14.30–19.00.