Calascio’s Timeless Charm: Medieval Wonders and Breathtaking Views Await You
One of the main gateways to the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, Calascio is distinguished by La Torre Castle, the highest in the Apennines at 1,520 meters above sea level.
Calascio is a small town that almost gets lost amidst the wonderful collection of gems in the province of L’Aquila, yet it shines brightly as a jewel emerging from the golden tide of Abruzzo‘s beauty. Only about a hundred people live in this charming village nestled in the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park at an altitude of 1,210 meters, not quite enough to fit it into the “mountain” category. Well, it is somewhat mountainous, but this location lies in a truly diverse territory characterized by an abundance of natural features, including meadows, pastures, forests, and pleasant groves that crown the first slopes of the Gran Sasso and the Piano Buto, a spacious, tranquil valley from which you can enjoy a majestic view that stretches out to ideally touch the Majella and the Sirente massifs, predominant on the horizon.
Calascio lives in its shadow, a Lilliputian reality at 1,200 meters above sea level, with only 140 die-hard inhabitants. Originally a watchtower named Rocca Calascio, it developed into a fief starting from the year 1000 in the area now included in the province of L’Aquila, Abruzzo, where ancient times were marked by sheep farming, livestock breeding, and the production of Carapese wool from flocks that, in the 15th century, numbered almost 90,000 heads. It is truly one of the most evocative villages in Abruzzo.
The Rocca and the Upper Village
The then owner of the domain, Costanza Piccolomini, eventually ceded the Barony and the Marquisate to the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Francesco Maria De’ Medici, before everything ended up in Bourbon hands in 1743. Earthquakes and depopulation seriously threatened the total abandonment of Calascio, which in 1957 appeared as a ghost town, revived with difficulty over recent years until settling on a hundred or so inhabitants. Its decline, resurrection, and continued existence on the edge of survival make the town an intriguing tourist destination.
The historical authenticity and rich history of Calascio have made it an ideal filming location, most notably in the 1985 film “Ladyhawke”, directed by Richard Donner. Some scenes were set within the walls of the Rocca Calascio, or La Torre, a castle located on a ridge and built entirely of white stone and squared ashlars. The central ramp (replacing the old wooden drawbridge), the four corner towers surrounding the central keep, are well preserved and open to tourists for free.
After restoration at the end of the 20th century, the Rocca took its revenge and became an authentic film set for both national and international movies. The Rocca—being a stop on the medieval itinerary, rising as the highest fortress in Italy (1,500 meters above sea level) and among the highest in Europe—is now a favorite for directors shooting historical, fantasy, and adventure films. Calascio village, too, has monuments that are certainly attractive, especially from a touristic point of view.
Just below, united in one single entity, is the upper village of Calascio, where only the wind rustles among the ruins, renovated to attract travelers along the main routes.
What to See in Calascio
The lower part of the village retains a small handful of residents, a group of Abruzzese passionate about that section of the town. Close by is the Church of Santa Maria della Pietà, a small temple built in 1596: with an octagonal plan and eight-segmented dome, it is particularly noteworthy for a painting depicting the Miraculous Virgin next to a sculpture of Saint Michael armed.
The Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie (or Church of San Francesco) is another notable building, founded in 1594 and featuring a seventeenth-century ciborium, a carved wooden candelabra, a terracotta sculpture depicting the Madonna and Child, and a portrait of Francis of Assisi on canvas by Giulio Cesare Badeschini, an artist known for numerous works also present in the Parish Church of San Nicola.
The sacred heritage of Calascio is rounded out by the Churches of Sant’Antonio Abate (17th century), San Leonardo (13th century), and San Carlo (14th century). The noble architecture includes Palazzo Taranta (17th century, the town hall), Casa Piccolomini (15th century), Palazzo Frasca (17th century), and the tower house La Palmara (constructed between the 15th and 19th centuries).
Calascio and its suitcase of wonders contain medieval charm in its most mystical forms: the old medieval village, the Rocca, the Navelli Valley, Castelvecchio Calvisio, and the lands favored for sheep breeding and the production of excellent Abruzzese wine. Gastronomy in Calascio recites poetry, attracting food lovers searching for unique, authentic dishes. Lentil soup, served with pieces of fried bread and drizzled with olive oil, is a must-try, as is volarella, a local fresh pasta, or the chiaranese lamb with cheese and eggs.
How to Get to Calascio
By car from L’Aquila, take the SS 17 towards Pescara, then turn at Castelnuovo towards Castelvecchio Calvisio and follow signs for Calascio. The train station is in L’Aquila, from which you can continue to the town by Arpa bus lines. The nearest airport is in Pescara, located 61 km from Calascio.