Bandar Seri Begawan: A City of Stunning Palaces and the Venice of the East

Bandar Seri Begawan is not a tongue twister, but the capital of the small state of Brunei. Its history dates back to the 7th century, when the first settlement was established along the Brunei River. That first settlement stood exactly where the National Museum is today; the village, historically called Kampong Ayer, expanded and relocated over the centuries before being renamed to its current name with a composition of three terms coined in honour of the Sultan’s father and Sanskrit and Persian words.

Historical Significance

By the 16th century, the town had grown considerably, with a population estimated at 25,000 families, making it one of the most prosperous and powerful in the whole of Borneo. However, after its heyday, the town experienced a phase of decline due to wars and the emigration of part of the population.

Towards the end of the 19th century, Brunei became a protectorate of the British Empire. In 1906, Malcolm McArthur, the first British resident, introduced initiatives to ensure the country’s development. He convinced the population to move to the left bank of the Brunei River, involving Chinese merchants and the Sultan himself. This led to the construction of public buildings and residential quarters, contributing to the city’s growth.

During World War II, the city was invaded by the Allies and suffered severe damage from heavy bombing, necessitating a nearly complete reconstruction after the war. By 1984, when Brunei achieved independence, Bandar Seri Begawan had become one of the most prosperous cities in the Borneo region.

A Blend of Luxury and Tradition

Many tourists arrive expecting a city akin to Singapore, where the ostentation of wealth is commonplace. However, apart from luxury cars driving through the beautiful streets, Bandar Seri Begawan also offers traditional and affordable experiences similar to those in other parts of Southeast Asia. It boasts social factors such as high life expectancy and a low crime rate, aligned with Western standards.

Cultural and Religious Etiquette

Visitors should be aware that Brunei is an extremely religious state where Islamic regulations are strictly observed. Proper attire is highly recommended, especially for mosque visits. Additionally, it is forbidden to smoke in public places, and the consumption of alcohol is not permitted.

Must-See Attractions in Bandar Seri Begawan

• Royal Regalia Building: Houses a collection of gifts made to the Sultan by world leaders. Open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM with free admission.
• Jame’ Asr Hassanil Mosque: Built in 1992, this is Brunei’s main place of prayer, located 2 km northwest of the city center. It is accessible via bus number 22 from Jalan Cator.
• Istana Nurul Iman: The largest presidential palace in the world and the Sultan’s residence. Open to the public for guided tours at the end of Ramadan.
• Kampung Ayer: Known as the “Venice of the East,” this water village houses approximately 30,000 residents. It includes a Tourism and Culture Gallery with a tower offering panoramic views.

Getting Around the City

Transportation options in Bandar Seri Begawan include purple buses (fares generally 75 cents) and water taxis, which provide a unique travel experience. Ordinary taxis are rarely metered, with fares varying based on fuel prices.

Brunei International Airport

The Brunei International Airport, located just 2.5 km from the city center, connects to major cities in Asia, Europe, Australia, and the Middle East. Note that the departure tax is $3.75 for Borneo destinations and $9 for other destinations.

Where to Eat in Bandar Seri Begawan

1. Kaizen Sushi: Enjoy fresh sushi with stunning riverside views, perfect for a casual yet memorable dining experience.
2. Aminah Arif Restaurant: Specializing in Ambuyat, Brunei’s signature dish, this spot offers authentic and delicious local flavors.
3. The Horizons Seafood Restaurant: Renowned for dishes like chili crab, this restaurant overlooks the serene Kampong Ayer.
4. Tarindak D’Seni: Located at the Arts and Handicrafts Centre, this eatery serves traditional buffets with a cultural twist.
5. Thien Thien Restaurant: A local favorite for halal Chinese cuisine, offering a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

Where to Stay in Bandar Seri Begawan

1. The Empire Brunei: A luxurious resort featuring world-class amenities and breathtaking views of the South China Sea.
2. Radisson Hotel Brunei: Centrally located, this hotel offers modern comforts and easy access to key landmarks.
3. Badi’ah Hotel: Affordable and stylish, ideal for both solo travelers and families seeking convenience.
4. The Brunei Hotel: A boutique hotel with cozy accommodations and a prime location near major attractions.
5. Qing Yun Resthouse: A budget-friendly option with clean rooms and close proximity to local eateries.

Alfredo Ravanetti