Algiers: The Dazzling White Pearl of the Mediterranean Awaits You
The French called it “la blanche”, the white one, and that’s exactly how it appears to the eye. Algiers, the capital of Algeria, is a sprawling city of whitewashed houses, overlooking the Mediterranean and surrounded by hills and fertile farmland. The vibrant streets and alleys make Algiers, El-Djazair in Arabic, a destination that is nothing short of exhilarating. Though it was tormented by the violence that shook the entire country in the 1990s, Algiers is now experiencing a calmer phase. Despite paying off its foreign debt, the number of unemployed and homeless people continues to grow. Fortunately, despite the rush to modernize, Algiers retains much of its charm and mystery, as well as its strong sense of identity and its dazzling white appearance.
The Origins of Algiers
According to a romantic legend, Algiers was founded by Hercules and 20 of his traveling companions, who decided to settle along the shores of the bay where they landed. In reality, the ancient origins of the city still lie buried under its modern buildings, if they have not been lost in the sands. However, there are many areas in which traces of ancient colonizers emerge. Phoenicians, Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Spanish, Merenids are just some of the peoples who, over the last 3,000 years, have settled for some time in the area of today’s Algerian capital, which gained its independence from the Ottoman Empire in the 17th century. In 1830, however, began 132 years of French colonial domination—a period still clearly visible in the city’s architecture, as well as in the significant traits of the mentality of the local people. Since 1962, Algiers has been the capital of the independent state of Algeria.
Exploring the Layout of Algiers
Algiers is built around a large crescent-shaped bay, facing north onto the Mediterranean and framed by hills that slope rather steeply towards the sea. The urban profile is dominated by two prominent buildings: the 92-meter-high silhouette of the Makam Eshahid, the “Martyrs’ Monument,” which rises south of the center; and the concrete parallelepiped of the Hotel Aurassi, the city’s most famous five-star hotel. The Casbah, the heart of the historic center or upper city, occupies the side of the hill that overlooks the northern part of the port, ending at the top with the citadel. To the south of the Casbah lies the Ville Nouvelle or lower city, the economic, commercial, and financial hub built by the French. Generally, Algiers is a city where you can easily move around on foot, especially in the lower city, while it may be unwise to venture into the Casbah without some local knowledge.
The Fascinating Casbah
Like many other destinations in Algeria, Algiers is just beginning to discover its tourism potential. The area of greatest interest is undoubtedly the Casbah, a unique urban environment that has earned recognition from UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Built on the slope of the hill leading down from the citadel to the seafront, the Casbah largely dates back to between the 16th and 18th centuries. It presents a maze of alleys winding through a dense network of whitewashed houses, where the sun struggles to penetrate much of the day. After partially overcoming hygiene and crime issues, the Casbah still faces depopulation, leading to the ruin of many homes. However, a large restoration project is underway, and several prestigious houses have already been brought back to their original splendor.
Architectural Highlights of Algiers
Many of Algiers’ architecturally significant buildings are located near the Casbah. Above all, the Dejemaa el-Djedid, also called the Mosque of the Fishmonger, was built in 1660 on the site of a previous Koranic school, funded by public subscription. Unlike other mosques in Algiers, this one features a distinctly Turkish style, with domes and vaults, though the minaret follows the Andalusian model. The building has two entrances: one facing the square, and one on the steps leading down to the port. Nearby, the silhouette of the Djemaa el-Kebir, or the “Great Mosque,” stands out. Its cedarwood mihrab, or niche indicating the direction of Mecca, dates back to the year 490 of the Hegira (1097 AD), built by Youssef ben Tachfine, the Almoravid ruler of Tlemcen.
Mosques, Monuments, and the Influence of History
At a time when Algiers had become a pirate haven, there were many renegades—men who had converted religions or switched sides for survival or personal gain. Ali Bitchin was one such individual: a Venetian sailor who made a career in Algiers, ultimately becoming the grand admiral of the local fleet. In 1622, he built the Djemaa Ali Bitchin, a mosque with an unusual dome, clearly influenced by Italian and Byzantine styles. During the French occupation, this mosque was used as a church named Notre-Dame des Victories. The minaret was destroyed in the late 19th century, but in 1962, the building was re-consecrated as a mosque.
The Troubled History of the Djemaa Ketchaoua
The mosque with the most complex history is the Djemaa Ketchaoua, which dates back to the early 17th century. In 1794, it was rebuilt by Hassan Pacha, who also constructed the Dar Hassan Pacha next to it, a building that hosted notable guests like Napoleon and Empress Eugenie. During the French occupation, it became the city’s cathedral, embellished by painters and sculptors, with Napoleon III even attending mass here. In 1962, it was reconsecrated as a mosque.
Other Must-See Sights in Algiers
Other attractions worth visiting include the Dar Aziza Bente l-Bay, the sumptuous palace believed to have been built for the Bey of Constantine’s daughter; the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions inside the Dar Khedaoudj el-Amia; the citadel, which dominates the port and Casbah with its cannon-lined walls; the Palais des Rais Bastion 23, an 18th-century complex housing the Centre des Arts et de la Culture; and the Notre-Dame d’Afrique, a Byzantine-inspired church that overlooks the city with serene grace.
The Ville Nouvelle and Its Charms
Leaving the old city, you enter the Ville Nouvelle, or “new city,” which is neither entirely new nor wholly French. Even before the colonial era, the slopes behind the Bay of Algiers were home to summer residences and pavilions for the city’s rulers. Although the hills are now covered in modern buildings, some of the old villas remain, transformed into museums or public spaces. Key places to visit include the Bardo Museum of Prehistory and Ethnography, the National Museum of Antiquities, the Makam Echahid and Musèe National du Moudjahid, and the Mesèe des Beaux Arts, located by the Jardin d’Essai.
The Climate and Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Algiers is in October and November, when the sky is clear, temperatures are mild, and the desert landscape comes alive with greenery. Spring is also lovely, though sandstorms can occur in April, and temperatures start to rise in May. In general, the average annual temperature is around 18 degrees Celsius, with the coldest temperatures in January dropping to around 9–10 degrees and peaks in August exceeding 30 degrees. Rainfall is limited, averaging between 600 and 700 mm annually.
How to Reach Algiers and Get Around
Recently expanded, Houari Boumediène Airport is located 19 kilometers from the city center and has terminals for both domestic and international flights. The gare routière bus station in Algiers works reasonably well, offering services and a departures board, even though it’s located a few kilometers from the city center. Public transport mainly consists of numerous bus lines, with a metro line under construction for several years. Driving around in your own vehicle is not recommended, as local drivers tend to disregard traffic laws.
Where to Eat and Stay in Algiers
Where to Eat: For a taste of authentic Algerian cuisine, head to La Maison Bleue, located in the heart of the Casbah. This charming eatery serves traditional dishes like couscous, tagines, and baklava, all prepared with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. If you’re looking for something more contemporary, La Cantine des Gourmets offers a delightful fusion of Algerian and French flavors, served in a stylish, modern setting.
Where to Stay: Algiers has a mix of luxurious and budget-friendly options. Hotel El-Djazair (formerly the St. George Hotel) offers a historic charm with lush gardens and a sense of old-world elegance. For something more modern, the Sofitel Algiers Hamma Garden provides excellent service and views of the bay. On a tighter budget? Dar-Tlidjene Hotel offers clean, comfortable rooms with warm hospitality in a more local neighborhood—ideal for those who want a taste of the “real” Algiers.