Accra’s Charms: From the Bustling Makola Market to Osu’s Vibrant Streets

Accra is a city that conquers you little by little. The first impression of the capital of Ghana can be challenging, given the size and the poverty seen in many peripheral neighborhoods, which reflect a particularly harsh urban reality. The hot streets are filled with acrid and varied smells, while above, clouds of humidity hover over shabby stalls of fruit, banku, and rice. The bustling city center stretches towards the coast, lined with several beaches where unique experiences await you. The liveliest area is Osu, south of Danquah Circle, full of fast food restaurants, internet cafes, and hotels that aren’t always cheap.

Historical Layers of Accra

Founded by the Ga people at the beginning of the 15th century, today’s Accra was quickly occupied by the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch, Swedes, English, Danes, and French over the next 200 years. The city developed around two fortifications: an English one, which became the center of Jamestown, and a Dutch one, around which Ussherstown arose. Following the Anglo-Asante War, Accra became the capital of the English colony of the Gold Coast, leading to an expansion in infrastructure, including a railway. After two major earthquakes in 1862 and 1939, Accra became the scene of numerous revolts that, in 1957, led to the nation gaining independence.

The Bustling Makola Market

Before you even enter, the smells and sounds of Makola Market—the most bustling and colorful market in Accra—reach your senses. From sidewalks crowded with street vendors promoting second-hand shoes and clothes, you will find yourself pulled into a vortex of endless stalls. In Makola’s alleys, everything is hidden, from moisturizers to high heels, from battery cables to “made in China” toys, from portable radios to large sacks of cocoa. The food vendors are particularly picturesque, offering smoked fish, mountains of bread, tomatoes, onions, corn, millet, roasted plantains, and endless assortments of sweets.

Independence Square and the Black Star

The symbol of African independence, Independence Square—also known as Black Star Square—is a vast parade ground where the people of Accra enjoy strolling. It is not always possible to cross the Independence Arch in the center of the square, but you can freely reach the Perpetual Flame of African Liberation, lit by Kwame Nkrumah in 1961.

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park

To the east of the square is Osu Castle, originally Christiansborg Castle, built by the Danes in 1659. This historical structure was once the seat of government, which later moved to the Golden Jubilee House. Nearby, you can also visit Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, established in the early 1990s in honor of Ghana’s first president. The park features numerous bronze statues, fountains, and a large expanse of greenery. The statue of Nkrumah, who declared independence here in 1957, stands with an arm outstretched to indicate the way forward. The museum houses a collection of the statesman’s personal effects, including his desk, bookcase, and sofa.

The National Museum: A Cultural Treasure

The National Museum is quite different, though similarly set in a lush garden. It offers a rich collection that illustrates Ghana’s cultural history, featuring sections dedicated to local crafts, ceremonial objects, and the slave trade. Copper objects of fine craftsmanship, including weights used by Ashanti goldsmiths and golden dust spoons, are scattered throughout. Other notable items include masks, drums, wooden statues, archaeological relics, and golden umbrellas.

Exploring Jamestown

Jamestown, a historic division of Accra, is home to several fascinating sites. It emerged in the mid-17th century around the British James Fort and later merged with the city due to urban expansion. Despite being one of the less privileged areas of Accra, with often poor sanitary conditions, Jamestown is rich in history, with charming courtyards, colorful markets, and colonial-era buildings.

If you decide to walk back to the center along Cleland Rd, consider taking a detour onto Hansen Rd to visit the Timber Market—the “Wood Market”—where the fetish section offers an intriguing array of animal skulls, reptiles, strange powders, talismans, teeth, bells, and juju statuettes. Continuing on to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, you can rest in the shaded garden next to the church, where the interior is adorned with a magnificent wooden barrel vault.

Accra’s Beaches: Where the City Meets the Sea

Pleasure Beach stretches for around eight kilometers east of the center, just before the Labadi Beach Hotel. On weekends, this stretch of sand is full of people who love the services it offers, including several good bars and restaurants. Coco Beach, located about seven kilometers further east towards Nungua, is quieter, though you can also choose to spend a day at the New Coco Beach Hotel, which provides a swimming pool, bar, and restaurant overlooking the beach.

Accra’s Wild Nightlife

Accra’s nightlife is primarily centered around the Nkrumah Circle, where clubs and discos often stay open until dawn, making it the hub for those looking to experience the city’s vibrant social scene.

Climate and Best Time to Visit

Accra experiences a tropical equatorial climate, with high temperatures all year round and seasonal rains. The rainiest period is from April to June, followed by a lesser rainy season from September to November. Throughout the year, maximum temperatures hover around 30°C, with minimums rarely falling below 20°C. The peak tourist season is between June and August, though Accra is enjoyable year-round.

Getting to Accra

Kotoka International Airport, located just a few kilometers outside the center, offers direct flights to major European and African cities. STC buses operate from the station east of Lamptey Circle, connecting to Kumasi, Takoradi, Cape Coast, and Tamale. The chaotic Tudu bus station at the northeastern end of the market operates tro-tro minibuses, linking Accra to Aflao, Ada, Keta, Hohoe, and Akosombo. The railway network is minimal, and the few trains to Kumasi and Takoradi can take a considerable amount of time.