A Journey Through Uruapan: Nature, History, and Tradition in Michoacán
Uruapan is the second largest city in terms of size and population (about 350,000) in the state of Michoacán, in the central area of Mexico. It calls itself the “capital mundial del aguacate” (meaning world capital of avocados) and it certainly can’t be wrong, considering that it enjoys a particularly favorable climate that allows for year-round cultivation and excellent quality production. The city is located at the meeting point between the Tierra Caliente region and the Meseta Purépecha, in the hinterland of the state.
From a tourist point of view, Uruapan del Progreso – known to everyone simply as Uruapan – may not be very well known in Italy (or more generally outside the country), but this does not take away from its charm. Despite its size, there is a pleasant country atmosphere that invites you to take all the time necessary to discover it.
History of Uruapan
Much of what Uruapan is today is due to the Río Cupatitzio, the river that crosses the territory. What attracted the attention of the founder of the city, the Spanish monk Fray Juan de San Miguel, was precisely the enchanting naturalistic context dominated by lush vegetation. It was the 16th century, and the territory at that time was inhabited by the Purépecha populations, who lived here in harmony with nature before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. The monk is responsible for the urban layout of the center, based on a grid of orthogonal streets, and the construction of the large market square, the hospital, and a chapel.
Over the centuries, the growth of Uruapan was driven by thriving agricultural activity, making it particularly renowned for the production of avocados and macadamia nuts, as well as coffee, fruit, and chocolate.
What to See in Uruapan
Compared to other Mexican cities, there may not be as many things to see in the center of Uruapan. However, fewer tourists, a more relaxed atmosphere, and reasonable prices make it a destination worth considering for those who want to discover one of the infinite facets of Mexico.
The heart of local life is in the historic center, in the area of Morelos Square, a large elongated garden square which in its western portion, in front of the Temple of San Francisco, takes the name Martyrs Square of Uruapan. Surrounded by arcades under which there are shops, restaurants, and a constant coming and going of people, it is the place to start exploring Uruapan, even if the main local attraction is a national park located in the middle of the city.
Main Points of Interest
Museo Indígena Huatápera
On the northeast corner of Plaza Morelos, the Huatápera is an old colonial-style building built in 1533 – considered the first hospital in the Americas – which today houses a museum dedicated to indigenous peoples. After undergoing a major renovation, since the early 2000s it has housed a museum of indigenous art and tradition, with rooms dedicated to the permanent collection (the main room, dedicated to “Los Cuatros Pueblos”, and “El Maque de Michoacán”, where the cultural value of the artistic production of the Purépecha people is appreciated) and others where temporary exhibitions are frequently held on themes related to the life, customs, and cosmogony of the Mexican indigenous people.
Calle Corregidora
Just one block north of the plaza, this commercial street is lined with shops of all kinds (shoes, clothes, crafts) and is always very busy. At its eastern end, on the corner of Calle Vasco de Quiroga, is a shopping center and the mercado de antojitos (literally “snack market”), where you can sit down to eat local specialties cooked to order in a characteristic open-air wooden-roofed structure.
Fábrica San Pedro
Southwest of the center, in this old textile factory dating back to the 19th century and recently redeveloped, a cultural center (Centro Cultural Fábrica de San Pedro) has been created which offers many activities, exhibitions, concerts, shows, and artistic workshops.
Casa Angosta
The narrowest house in the world, as certified by the Guinness Book of Records 1999. It is just 142 cm wide and about ten meters deep, with a height of four floors. It was built starting in 1985 and is regularly inhabited. The address is Calle Felipe Carrillo Puerto 50 C, a few blocks north of the historic center. It can generally be visited from Monday to Friday, but it is best to ask on site, perhaps also the neighbors.
Barranca del Cupatitzio National Park
In Uruapan, there is a national park right in the city, just 1 km west of the main square. It is a lush tropical forest that surrounds the Río Cupatitzio. Here you can walk in the middle of nature, along cobblestone paths that intertwine and cross the river with wooden bridges, flanking some thunderous waterfalls and a couple of artistic fountains. From some bridges, boys dive for tourists in exchange for a tip. Along the paths, you will find stalls selling everything: fruit, tacos, souvenirs, and much more, but there is also a trout farm where fishing is allowed. There is a legend linked to the park: at the source of the river, it seems that Lucifer left his footprint on the rock, which today is called “Rodilla del Diablo”.
The Río Cupatitzio and the Legend of the Rodilla del Diablo
Before delving into the legend, it is necessary to know that the origin of the water of the Río Cupatitzio is due to the particular geology of this region of Michoacán. The rain that falls in the upper part of the river basin, in the Purépecha Plateau north of Uruapan, infiltrates the ground to reach the aquifers, as the soil is very permeable due to its volcanic origin. Once it reaches the impermeable rocks, the water looks for ways out in the form of a spring.
At this point, the legend comes into play. According to the tale, in 1533 the Devil lived under the rocks and did not allow the spring water of the Río Cupatitzio to flow. The Purépecha inhabitants, tired of the situation, asked for help from Fray Juan de San Miguel, who called the entire population to celebrate a mass, having intuited that the Devil could have had a hand in it.
When the friar sprinkled the first drops of holy water on the rocks, the air smelled of sulfur, and after an earthquake, the Devil came running out. During his escape, however, he stumbled and left the imprint of his knee on a rock (in Spanish, “rodilla”). Since then, the water began to flow again, and for this reason, the spring is known by the name “Devil’s Knee”, which marks the birth of the Río Cupatitzio, or “Singing River” in the Purépecha language.
Surroundings of Uruapan
The landscape surrounding Uruapan is extraordinary, made up of mountains covered with vegetation, but also dormant volcanoes. The most spectacular and frightening of these is the Paricutín, which is also one of the youngest in the world: it emerged from the earth in the afternoon of February 20, 1943, remaining active for nine years and rising 410 meters from the ground. It is located about 40 km northwest of Uruapan, a distance that at the time was sufficient to not cause damage to the city. The same cannot be said of the villages in the immediate vicinity: the lava traveled 10 km, completely destroying the towns of Paricutín and San Juan Parangaricutiro, but fortunately without killing anyone, as there was enough time to evacuate the people.
The village of Paricutín was completely erased from the maps (today the volcano crater is located approximately at that point), while in San Juan Parangaricutiro, also buried by lava, part of the church is still visible, whose bell tower stands in the middle of an immense flow of over 20 km² of black rocks. The volcano and the remains of the church are popular destinations for trekking and excursions: the nearby town of Angahuan is the reference for logistics, to hire local guides, and get all the necessary information.
Following the destruction of the village, a new town was rebuilt from scratch closer to Uruapan. Today, Nuevo San Juan Parangaricutiro is home to an important church that is an annual pilgrimage site, the Santuario del Señor de los Milagros. For those who want to shop, there is a colorful craft market in the plaza in front.
Still in the immediate vicinity, a few kilometers south of Uruapan is the Cascada de Tzaráracua, where the Río Cupatitzio forms a spectacular waterfall with a 30-meter drop over rocks in the middle of nature. From the entrance to the park, to reach the waterfall, you follow a path down 557 stone steps. There is also a second, smaller waterfall, the Tzararacuita, upstream of the first, reachable through a rugged trail of about 20 minutes.
Events and Celebrations in Uruapan
Like many other cities in Michoacán, Uruapan boasts a rich calendar of events and celebrations spread throughout the year. Between March and April, during the Easter period (Semana Santa), the Tianguis Artesanal de Uruapan takes place, a competition between artisans that attracts participants from all over the country. It usually begins on Palm Sunday and continues for two weeks in the historic center with markets, parades, concerts, and many other events.
In autumn, the agenda becomes more crowded: on October 4th, the Día de San Francisco is celebrated, the patron saint of the city, remembered with picturesque celebrations in the streets of the center.
Less than a month later, the Day of the Dead is celebrated – one of the most heartfelt traditions in all of Mexico, but perhaps even more so in Uruapan. Between November 1st and 2nd, Uruapan fills up with visitors, attracted by the warmth of a suggestive celebration that literally colors and lights up not only the houses but also the cemeteries.
Finally, the Expo Fair of Uruapan takes place between November and December for about three weeks, as a more modern version of the traditional Feria del Aguacate, which took place in previous years. The event showcases the best of Uruapan‘s agricultural products, especially its famous avocados, with numerous stalls, parades, concerts, and food tasting experiences that emphasize local cuisine.
Climate: When to Go to Uruapan?
Uruapan is nestled between mountains and has an average altitude of 1,620 meters above sea level. Despite its geographical position, the climate is not as harsh as one might expect: it is good to keep in mind that we are still south of the Tropic of Cancer, and for this reason, the maximum temperatures during the day are generally between 24°C and 30°C throughout the year.
The hottest months are the spring months (March, April, May), while the rainy season usually begins in June, continuing until September-October. During this period, temperatures remain quite high, but it rains practically every day (Uruapan is known for being the rainiest city in the state, with over 1,500 mm of annual rainfall), while in winter the climate is significantly drier.
How to Get to Uruapan
Uruapan is served by an international airport (Aeropuerto Internacional de Uruapan), which is located right in the city, and by a bus station located a couple of kilometers northeast of the center, along the highway to/from Pátzcuaro.
In Mexico, the main way to get around is by bus (there are many bus lines, just go to any bus station and ask for information), and to reach Uruapan it is also the most common means of transport, unless you have your own car.
Here are some examples of distances and travel times to/from the main locations:
- Mexico City: 400 km (Terminal Norte, about 6-7 hours by bus)
- Morelia: 100 km (2 hours by bus)
- Lázaro Cárdenas: 230 km (4 hours)
- Pátzcuaro: 57 km (1 hour)
- Angahuan: 37 km (1 hour)
- Guadalajara: 270 km (about 5 hours’ drive)
