Gourdon, the village perched on the Gorges du Loup
Perched on the Gorges du Loup, one of the most evocative nature trails in the French Maritime Alps, Gourdon is a characteristic “village because” of the arrondissement of Grasse. The “villages perches”, or perched villages, constitute one of the most evocative architectural traditions of Provence.
From the top of the hills on which they were built to defend the political turmoil of the medieval era, these villages, which arose around the central castle and enclosed by imposing walls, were and still are crossed by a dense network of streets and stairways with passages once dominating the territory below majestically up to the coast.
If the nineteenth-century agrarian reforms caused the depopulation of these small towns at the time, today many of them have been restored and brought back to their former glory thanks to artists, artisans and vacationers who have chosen them as a residence or atelier to host their artistic creations.
To the east of the city of Grasse, on the winding roads that climb first on the N85 and then on the D5, we reach this village perched in an eagle’s nest at 760 meters above sea level. From here Gourdon dominates the gorges of the Loup stream: from the square, which is located at the highest point of the village, you have a splendid view over the whole valley and the sea until you reach Antibes and Cap Roux with your eyes.
In the historic center of the village, you can reach it on foot (at the entrance of the village there is a large free parking lot where you can leave the car) by going uphill a road that leads straight to the heart of Gourdon which houses shops of regional products, perfumes and handicrafts (beautiful table ceramics and Provençal fabrics).
The narrow alleys that cross the village stretch their shadows between ancient residences that smell of ivy and bougainvillea, accompanying the discovery of a suggestive corner of France embellished with fountains (at the time of their construction often the only water source in the village) and arches built in its time to support the buildings right in the winding streets.
Considered one of the most beautiful villages in France, Gourdon with its Provençal houses and lively streets even out of season (the winter panorama enjoyed by this village we were told is truly unmissable) is one of the tourist circuits of the Alpes-Maritimes-Costa Azure-Provence most appreciated and visited in every season of the year.
In addition to the authentic charm due to the 12th-century Roman church dedicated to the Virgin, not to be missed is the panoramic glimpse offered by the terrace of the Chateau de Gourdon, also built in the 12th century by local lords on the remains of an original Saracen fortress of which the vaulted ceilings remain today.
The terraced gardens were designed by André Le Notre (creator of those of Versailles) when the castle, which dominates the western part of the village, was restored in the 17th century. The historic building which still retains elements of Saracen architecture, Tuscan fourteenth century and Renaissance style is surrounded by the Italian garden, that of the pharmacist and the rocky (or Provençal) one.
Inside the castle, there are two important museums: the Historique museum in whose rooms there are medieval works of art, a collection of ancient weapons, an Aubusson tapestry, a desk that belonged to Queen Marie Antoinette and a self-portrait by Rembrandt while furniture from the 1920s and 1930s, lamps by Jacques Le Chevallier and Paul Dupré-Lafon as well as some sculptures by the master Dalì are exhibited in the Arts Décoratifs and de la Modernité.
From Place Victoria, the orientation table in enameled lava, lying on the stone walls, guides the visitor to the discovery of an open panorama over 80 km over the village of Grasse and the Loup valley. The only entrance to the village welcomes the walk in the medieval streets that leads up to the Roman church and to the high ramparts that overhang the valley.
Among the many shops in Gourdon, the sweet tooth will not fail to pay a visit to La Marquisette, a lucky address for lovers of bread with spices. Open every day from 11, this workshop offers a range of natural bread, with spices or perfumed (chocolate, orange, fig and walnut …) as well as varieties of honey and nougat.
Where to eat in Gourdon
And for those who want to have lunch in a place with a fun and cool atmosphere (here the art of decorating the table is something truly exceptional!) We recommend the restaurant “Au Vieux Four”, in Rue Basse, where you can taste dishes expertly cooked with ingredients of season purchased at the market. What have we tasted? Smoked salmon of the house with crispy legumes, “Travers de Cochon” with mashed sweet potatoes and mint-flavored pannacotta. The restaurant is open every day. Ask for Stephane Lucas.
