Lost Empires, Modern Getaways: Why Anzio Is the Roman Seaside You Shouldn’t Miss
Overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea less than an hour from Rome, Anzio is a city where history pulsates at every corner: a Roman port, imperial refuge, battlefield and today a seaside destination beloved by Romans and travellers in search of authenticity. It is here that Nero was born, here that the Allied troops landed in 1944, here that the Mediterranean offers extraordinary fish and fiery sunsets. Anzio is sea and memory, archaeology and markets, pine forests and Art Nouveau villas.
History and Myth
Founded according to legend by Anteo, son of Ulysses, Anzio (Antium for the Romans) was one of the most powerful cities of ancient Lazio. It was the homeland of the Volsci, enemies of Rome, then a luxurious Roman colony, so much so that it hosted the sumptuous villas of emperors such as Nero. On its coasts, in January 1944, the famous Anzio landing took place, a crucial episode of the Second World War that led to the liberation of Rome.
What to See
- Villa and Grotto of Nero: Directly overlooking the sea, the imperial villa is an exciting archaeological site, with remains of mosaics, thermal baths and the suggestive Roman theatre. The Grotto of Nero, dug into the rock, still fuels mysteries and legends about the emperor.
- Port of Anzio: The beating heart of the city, here fishing boats, historic boats, restaurants and clubs coexist. Ideal for an evening stroll, among markets and the smell of freshly cooked fritto misto.
- Forte Sangallo: Defensive bastion built by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger for Pope Innocent VIII in the sixteenth century, today the venue for events, exhibitions and cultural happenings.
- Anzio Landing Museum (Via di Villa Adele, 2 – Tel. 06 98499427): An exciting collection of relics, photos, uniforms and human stories linked to the Allied landing, housed in Villa Adele, surrounded by a large park.
- Basilica of Santa Teresa: A modern-style church, a point of reference for the city, visible from the sea thanks to its imposing dome.
- British War Cemetery (Cemetery Road): A touching place where over a thousand Allied soldiers rest.
Nature, Beaches and Surroundings
- Anzio Beaches: The coast alternates equipped establishments with free stretches, with fine sand and shallow waters perfect for families. Don’t miss the Grotte di Nerone Beach, with archaeological remains just a few steps from the shoreline, and the Tor Caldara Beach, a nature reserve among sulphur springs, Mediterranean scrub and a 16th-century Saracen tower.
- Tor Caldara Reserve: WWF oasis with paths between the woods and the sea, perfect for walks, birdwatching and picnics in nature.
- Walks: The Anzio seafront, from Villa Adele to the port, is ideal for running or cycling; the reserve’s paths offer wild alternatives.
Curiosities and Legends
Legend has it that, on stormy nights, you can still hear Nero’s moans in his cave, punished for his cruelties. Some fishermen say they saw, in the waves, the reflection of the “Domus Aurea” that the emperor wanted to replicate here.
Cuisine and Where to Eat
Anzio is a paradise for fresh fish:
- Ristorante Romolo al Porto (Via Porto Innocenziano, 19 – Tel. 06 9844062): A true institution, authentic seafood cuisine, spaghetti with clams, raw and fried fish.
- Taverna del Pescatore (Via Porto Innocenziano, 31 – Tel. 06 9846262): Rustic atmosphere, specialities such as monkfish and seafood risotto.
- Ristorante Da Alceste al Buon Gusto (Via Porto Innocenziano, 19 – Tel. 06 9844062): Raw fish and spaghetti alla Nerone in an informal atmosphere.
- Osteria del Mare (Via Riviera Zanardelli, 37 – Tel. 06 9846059): Sea view and seasonal menu with catch of the day.
Where to Sleep
- Hotel L’Approdo (Via Ardeatina, 74 – Tel. 06 9846071): Rooms with sea view, swimming pool and impeccable service.
- Grand Hotel dei Cesari (Via Mantova, 3 – Tel. 06 9861206): Historic four-star hotel, overlooking the beach and with a wellness centre.
- B&B La Musa (Via del Faro, 6 – Tel. 328 9780278): Family charm and strategic position for hiking.
How to Get There
Anzio is connected to Rome by frequent regional trains (departing from Termini station, arriving in about an hour). The train station is a ten-minute walk from the port. By car, from Rome you can reach it by taking the SS148 Pontina and following the signs for Anzio. Parking is available near the port and the main beaches.
Opening Hours and Tickets
- Anzio Landing Museum: Open Tuesday through Sunday, 10:30-12:30 and 16:30-18:30. Free admission, donations welcome.
- Forte Sangallo: Can be visited during exhibitions and events, consult the Municipality website for an updated calendar.
Practical Advice
- If you want to visit the Grotta di Nerone, it is better to go at low tide; in summer the beaches fill up early, so it’s better to arrive in the morning.
- On weekends, always make a reservation at the historic restaurants in the port.
- The pedestrian area of the center comes alive especially in the evening, with clubs, ice cream parlors and open-air concerts in the summer.
