Belleville: A Journey Through Paris’s Art, History, and Unique Flavours
The Belleville neighbourhood is located near the eastern portion of central Paris. It was annexed to the capital of France in 1860. Here you will find two city parks, the Parc de Belleville and the Buttes Chaumont Park, as well as the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Fans of old-style animated films will not have missed ‘Les Triplettes de Belleville’, a French-Belgian-Canadian production from a few years ago by director and cartoonist Sylvain Chomet. Presented out of competition at the 56th Cannes Film Festival, the film tells the story of three singers from the 1930s (Violette, Blanche and Rose) and a Madame Souza who, despite her advanced age, raises her grandson Champion on her own, to whom she gives a small dog named Bruno and a tricycle that gives the young man a passion for cycling. Kidnapped by a gang of gangsters during his participation in the Tour de France, Champion is rescued by Madame Souza, the faithful Bruno and the three eccentric singers on board a rented pedalo…
Those who prefer to try their hand at novels will surely remember those penned by Daniel Pennac, who described the multi-ethnic Parisian neighbourhood of Belleville in all its nuances in the famous stories of the Malaussène family who, just like the author, live in what was once a country village in the Parisian hills.
A Vibrant Multicultural Area
Situated in the 20th arrondissement, east of Place de la République, between the Père Lachaise Cemetery and the Buttes Chaumont Park, the village of Belleville, once surrounded by vegetable gardens and vineyards and annexed to Paris in 1860, is today one of the most popular and multicultural areas of Paris. Here, sophisticated shops border Asian restaurants, bazaars of all kinds, and artists’ studios. It is a lively and cosmopolitan corner of the ville lumière, a crossroads of several arrondissements (10th, 11th, 19th, and 20th), where the great wave of immigration in the 20th century has blended seamlessly with the influx of artists who have transformed the district with galleries and art boutiques since the 1980s.
Despite modernisation, Belleville has fought to keep its heritage and village spirit intact, becoming a graffiti artist’s paradise. At no. 1 rue Francis-Picabia, the Association des Ateliers d’Artistes de Belleville (AAB), open daily from 2 PM to 8 PM, highlights the work of 250 artists and 23 collectives. A small room for temporary exhibitions displays art throughout the year. Visitors can purchase small 20×20 cm creations for around 45 euros, supporting the local art community. Each May, the AAB organises an open-door event, allowing tourists to visit the ateliers in the neighbourhood.
Strolling Through Belleville
Belleville’s rue Denoyez is a colourful street filled with graffiti and flower pots, reflecting the artistic spirit of the neighbourhood. For street art enthusiasts, Place Frehel is a must-see, featuring works like Jean Le Gac’s 1986 ‘Paris Trois Temps’, alongside contemporary pieces that captivate visitors.
To enjoy a fabulous view of Paris, visit the Parc de Belleville at 47 rue des Couronnes. This 4.5-hectare park, inaugurated in 1988, features a 100-meter cascading fountain, 140 vine cuttings, and a wooden play area for children aged six and up. The park also houses the Maison de l’air, an educational space about air quality (free admission).
- Opening Hours:
- Winter: Mon-Fri, 8 AM–5:45 PM; Sat-Sun, 9 AM–5:45 PM.
- Spring: Mon-Fri, 8 AM–8:30 PM; Sat-Sun, 9 AM–8:30 PM.
- Summer: Mon-Sun, 8 AM–9:30 PM.
- Fall: Mon-Fri, 8 AM–8:30 PM; Sat-Sun, 9 AM–8:30 PM.
Alternatively, visit the Buttes Chaumont Park, built in 1867, which offers panoramic views from a 30-meter terrace surrounded by floral decorations, exotic trees, grottos, and waterfalls.
Père Lachaise Cemetery
Belleville is home to the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery, affectionately called the City of the Dead. Opened by Napoleon I in 1804, this cemetery is the resting place of luminaries such as Edith Piaf, Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, and Jim Morrison.
- Opening Hours:
- Summer: Daily, 8 AM–6 PM.
- Winter: Daily, 8 AM–5:30 PM.
Markets, Shops, and Cafés
- Rue Civiale 7: Discover traditional Chinese remedies at Mme Jiang’s herbal shop.
- Rue de la Mare 64: Estelle Ramousse’s atelier offers bespoke hats priced around 100 euros.
- Rue des Envierges 1: Visit O’Paris for fresh juices, hibiscus drinks, and artisanal sodas. Dishes range from 10 to 15 euros. Open:
- Mon-Wed: 10:30 AM–2 AM.
- Thu-Sun: 10 AM–2 AM.
Belleville hosts a lively market every Tuesday and Friday from 7 AM to 2:30 PM, offering spices, fruit, carpets, and objects from around the world.
